Is This Motor Mount Broken? (Image Attached)

mtnbiker26

Bike Geek
Just buttoning up a timing belt installation and noticed that the motor mount looks like it separated but I'm not sure how it's supposed to look. If it's broken is there a certain brand or model I should look for. I seem to remember folks on here complaining about stock motor mounts being poor. Thanks.

IMG_1552.JPG
 
Yep, thats broken.

There are lots of threads about putting in new mounts, and then some folks taking them back out after being driven insane by the vibrations of the aftermarket mounts. I personally have an AWR front and Medieval passenger mount, and it made a big difference in how the car was handling. (especially since I had bad mounts there anyway....) My advice is to go 70 duro if you go aftermarket if this is your daily driver. Go higher if you dare, but it can be a rough ride.
 
the video I made of my mounts.
upgraded to SLS Performance passenger mount, Minerva front mount, and factory transmission mount. still need to get the rear replaced

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-GPjTFgFNm4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Very broken. Chances are one of the others is broken as well. I just bought some used OEM mounts and filled them and replaced. 2 of the three I had replaced were torn. Go to AutoZone and get some 3M Windo-weld and fill them if broken, or even if just to make them stiffer. Much cheaper than buying replacements, new or used.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'll inspect the other mounts as well. I'm thinking aftermarket mounts are the way to go.
 
I have 3/4 broken/torn motor mounts, they've been broken for a few months now, because I haven't had money or time to replace. I know many people say the stock ones are very poor. Is it bad to continue driving like this?

How difficult on a scale of 1-10 is it to replace them?

Also, could someone please post a link in here for the Aftermarket SLS mounts?
Google isn't helping me much, and the AWR's are overpriced, and many folks don't like those either.
 
Bad to keep driving that way? On a certain level, eventually you could run into driveability issues more than anything. Just hard to start or shift into gear. Personally, I think the stockers are way too soft, but be careful with upgrading to solid mounts as it can cause unwanted vibrations in the cabin.

Ease of install really depends on your mechanical knowledge, I'd probably say it's a 5-6 with the rear mount being the most troublesome, but you could be more or less mechanical than I and rate it differently. It should only take a few hours to knock them all out, just be sure to support the engine as you change them.

Where to find the mounts? Try this
 
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I had the passenger side mount out for the timing belt and it was pretty straightforward. The front mount and the transmission mount don't look like they'd be too difficult but the rear looks like a huge PITA. Lots of info about motor mounts if you do a search on the forum. The short version: Stock mounts are soft...they dampen motor vibrations well but allow too much engine movement for aggressive driving. Eventually they can tear. Stiffer aftermarket mounts are durable and keep the motor from wiggling around (wiggles cause drive lash, bucking, wheel hop, etc) but the stiffness transmits a lot of noise and vibration into the cabin. Right now I'm leaning towards the stock mounts and getting the AWR inserts. I figure the inserts will help hold the stock mounts together better.
 
is the 2002 protege motor mounts fit to 2002 protege 5??just curious..

i need new complete set of motor mounts for my 02 pro5.
any suggest guys where i can buy those set?
 
You guys sure that mount is broken? I think that top cavity is normally open like that... maybe with a thin web of rubber from the mold.
 
Pretty sure its toast, hard to tell from the picture. If you look at the right side of the web, and can see through in a spot.
 
Hmm, I see what you mean. But I always assumed with that mount, that the inner part of the mount just rests in the upper bushing, and that it wasn't important for the bushing to be fully connected on the top side. I could be wrong though.
 
yea, thats ripped up. not supposed to be that way. lol
Mine was that way, and I just bought awr inserts to fix it. Works great!

Also, a bit of info I found while changing my buddies 96 626 front mount.
Seems the 96 626 front motor mount is beefier than the pro's front mount.
When I had the 2 sisde by side, they looked identical. I should have taken pics but I failed. lol
The 626 has a completely filled mount where as the pro's mount is not. One would think naturally the 626 "should" be stronger/stiffer simply because of the design. I would try this, but I already have an awr mount. Would be nice to see this actually installed get some feedback.

Have a look:

1996 626 front motor mount: (sorry, couldnt find a bigger pic)
http://mazda-car-parts.************.net/Picture.aspx?width=500&height=500&id=6392642
2002 Protege front motor mount:
MNT1372.jpg
 
actually, it is supposed to look like that - with the "break" at the top. i had purchased a brand new mount from mazda and it looked exactly like the one in the first post. well, at least until i filled it with window weld...
 
yes indeed there is a break at the top, but it really looks like its torn up more than it should be. not busting your chops bro, just curious. lol
look at the space of this one compared to the one posted prior.

W01331759500MTC.JPG
 
its just from having supported the engine for so long. the only thing the passenger side mount does is supports the engine from dropping to the ground.
 
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