Installed new brakes...HELP!!!

mihalis

Member
The CX-9 became my daily driver last December. I love the car, and for an SUV, it is actually not that bad, considering I hate SUV's and I hate automatics. Anyway, to the point. Like everyone else here, the front brakes were warped and pretty much junk. I purchased Power Slot Rotors and Hawk HPS pads as my set up. I went to my mechanic and had him install them along with bleeding the brakes and adding SuperBlue brake fluid.

While no more vibration exists at higway speeds, Here is the problem.

The brake pedal requires way too much effort now. In order to properly bed in the pads to the rotors, I did some 4 slowdowns from 80 to 40 with a good amount of pedal pressure. I went and filled up with fuel and the rear brakes (stock) were hot as hell, the fronts were actually cooler and there was a good amount of brake dust in the front as well. Something still did not feel right about the car. I took it all the way up to 60mph and tried to do an emergency complete stop. After nearly putting tons of force onto the pedal, they lock up and ABS activated. This is a problem. All 9's come equiped with "Brake Assist" which, in emergency situations, provides additional braking support without extra effort from the driver. My 2002 BMW 330ci had this, it is a very cool feature as it gives you maximum braking instantly!

Superblue fluid is DOT 4 and (I believe) all it does is have a higher boiling point, so I highly doubt that's the problem, but my mechanic stated that could be the problem. I'm thinking there is air in the brake lines or that the brake pads are not good? Can anyone help me with this? My mechanic test drove it today and he had no idea about brake assist and did not understand what I meant by the amount of pressure the brake pedal needed. He told me to just continue driving it and it will get better. He also added that I was just wasting my money, but whatever, I have used that set-up before and it has been very good to me, that's why I went with it.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
mihalis, it could be many things. For one, did your mechanic clean the new rotors off properly? I have received new rotors before with heavy amounts of goop, and in my early days of do-it-myself, I didn't clean a pair off, and boy did those brakes not work, and got really really hot due to not cleaning the goop off the rotors. If the goop is not cleaned off, and you do a bunch of heavy braking, guess what, you're gonna have to get those re-surfaced due to hardened rotors deposits now.

That is one possibility.

I've personally used super blue before, and while it mostly marketing for every day use, and more practical for on-the-track use, it shouldn't underperform any other fluid.

There is always the possibility that your mechanic screwed up and got air in the lines too. But if there is air in the lines causing slow braking, your rotors would not be crazy hot.
I would suspect he may not have cleaned the goop off the rotors.
You gotta get the goop off, otherwise you will have poor braking for a hundred miles until you burn the stuff off, and then it will be time for a re-surface.
 
Thanks for the advice helbigtw. This has been my third set of power slot rotors, and I've never had to remove any goop. I usually throw them on, and that's it. Would a high end rotor like a Power Slot actually have goop on it?

I tried to hard brake again tonight, I could not activate the ABS, after nearly putting my whole weight on the pedal. There is something wrong here, and I just can't figure it out. It could be just bad pads or rotors, but I guess the only way to determine what the problem is, would be to start replacing certain parts and testing the car. Maybe I start with bleeding the brakes, then I'll jump to new pads, then new rotors. I'm not sure what else to do...
 
I think all rotors come with the protective sealing....you absolutely gotta get rid of that stuff before putting them on the car dude!
 
as hellbig has stated and restated, you need to at the very least take the wheels off and give the rotors a thorough cleaning to remove any remaining assembly lube that is applied to EVERY rotor that is made, otherwise they will start to rust in the boxes. Best bet would be to remove the rotors entirely and clean them with degreaser first and then a brake parts cleaner before reinstalling them.

next thing, 4 moderate stops like you described aren't really enough to do any kind of decent bedding in of new pads and rotors, you'd need about 10 or so. And the fact that you can't activate the ABS with your body weight on the pedal in a vehicle with 2 piston calipers up front and rears that are "hot as hell" should tell you that you're missing a significant amount of friction on the fronts probably due to some kinda lubricant being involved...

at the very least, spray some brake parts cleaner on the rotors as best you can and take it for a ride and see if your pedal doesn't become more responsive...
 
thanks for the reply guys. What about taking some steel wool to them? Do you think that would work? This is getting to be a little dangerous...
 
I was doing some research last night, it appears the guy installed them backwards...that's probably the problem, at least i hope that's the problem...
 
Steel wool will not fix the problem. You need to remove the rotors, or all hardware, and clean the rotors with a good degreaser and then brake cleaner, with a cloth. Do not be afraid to squirt brake cleaner on your pads and wipe them as well. Don't be scared on removing the rotors or hardware as it is not that complicated.

Additionally you are right about your Power Slot Rotors. They are directional and are clearly marked "Left" and "Right". Left refers to the driver's side installation. If you remove your rims you should be able to see the directional stamps.
 
The guys switched the rotors around. Braking has gotten better, but still feels "weak." I probably have to clean them like you guys indicated. I will probably do so keeping all the hardware on. There is no point in removing it.
 
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