I dumped my CX-5 finally

I might consider this $1,500 discount at the time I purchased the CX-5 in February 2015 as the reliability rating on Mazda from Consumer Reports had been good at #4 for 2 consecutive years. Since then the rating dropped like the rock to #6 and to #12 in the following years. Although Mazda brand reliability rating from CR is back to #3 this year, but it's this inconsistency of the reliability bothering me.

As my own experience looking back, I'd be very glad I didn't take this $1,500 discount to waive the new-car warranty. I took my CX-5 in during the week before the new-car warranty would expire. There're 10 items on long repair and replacement list, both LED headlights*both rear disc pads / rotors and calipers*entire HVAC control unit (due to partial fade-out LCD display)*both 9" Bose front door woofers*both A-pillar covers*etc. and 3 recalls. Total bill if they're not covered under warranty? $5,000+ !!! (eek2)

What happened with the HVAC unit?
 
A few months from now a newbie joins the forum. Posting pics of their new..used CX-5 they just bought. It actually used to belong to Uno LOL!!!
 
You're right on it maybe not being as good of a deal, but they still gave me $9200 for a car with $8K, and sold me their GT-R at invoice and gave me my rebates, so I'm not upset even if that is the case.

I didn't want a long term loan, either. Or any loan. That's why I was trying to just keep mine and pay it off, but this adds enjoyment to my life, and peace of mind for the life of the loan, with the 150K mile warranty, and those two things finally tipped the scale.

Im not trying to rain on your parade, but just a few points of clarification

Extended Warranty
Spending $2400 on an extended warranty is an important point that should have been disclosed in your initial post, as it is a huge profit center for dealerships. They made over $1000 just on selling you that warranty.
Also, since you financed it, the total true cost of that warranty (with interest) is $2700. Had you put that money into a high-yield savings account, you would have ended up with over $3000 in the bank.
You sound INCREDIBLY unlucky when it comes to vehicle reliability (like in the bottom 0.0001% of owners). But Id still rather have $3,000 in the bank, versus hoping my car breaks down enough to justify blowing $2700 on a warranty.

Purchase Price
You mentioned that you got your vehicle for invoice price. Is that a good price?
I paid $1,500 UNDER invoice for my 2018 Grand Touring a year ago.

Trade-in
You said the fuel pressure regulator died, which was a $1400 repair. But you didnt get a second opinion of the diagnosis or the repair cost.
As others have pointed out, this is highway robbery, and should cost nowhere near that much.

F&I Office
So what were the specific line items that were part of your deal? You already mentioned that you paid $2400 for the warranty. You also mention that you had the dealer tint the windows. How much did that cost? I assume you added GAP insurance since you are upside down. How much did that cost? What was the dealer documentation fee?
 
I*m not trying to rain on your parade, but just a few points of clarification*

Extended Warranty
Spending $2400 on an extended warranty is an important point that should have been disclosed in your initial post, as it is a huge profit center for dealerships. They made over $1000 just on selling you that warranty.
Also, since you financed it, the total true cost of that warranty (with interest) is $2700. Had you put that money into a high-yield savings account, you would have ended up with over $3000 in the bank.
You sound INCREDIBLY unlucky when it comes to vehicle reliability (like in the bottom 0.0001% of owners). But I*d still rather have $3,000 in the bank, versus *hoping* my car breaks down enough to justify blowing $2700 on a warranty.

Purchase Price
You mentioned that you got your vehicle for invoice price. Is that a good price?
I paid $1,500 UNDER invoice for my 2018 Grand Touring a year ago.

Trade-in
You said the *fuel pressure regulator* died, which was a *$1400* repair. But you didn*t get a second opinion of the diagnosis or the repair cost.
As others have pointed out, this is highway robbery, and should cost nowhere near that much.

F&I Office
So what were the specific line items that were part of your deal? You already mentioned that you paid $2400 for the warranty. You also mention that you had the dealer tint the windows. How much did that cost? I assume you added GAP insurance since you are upside down. How much did that cost? What was the dealer documentation fee?

Ill recheck on the fpr, or if more was involved.
I initially passed on the warranty. Bought it 2 days later or so.
Yes gap for 499, doc fee was a couple hundred bucks.
Dealer arranged the tint for me. Personal favor. 299 for both front windows and the windshield in pinnacle f1 ceramic.

Is anyone selling gtr and sig for under invoice while overallowing by 1500+ on trade?

Yes, i am in the bottom 0.001% for stuff breaking. Always have been. My life is odd. I always work up to the top 1-2% income in my field for my area, but my s*** always breaks. Its a trend.
 
So, sometime down the road when there's a problem I can just drop it off at the dealer and say "Here, let me know when you're done". If the wife calls up some day and says there's a problem with the Mazda, I'll just say let the dealer handle it. End of story.

You don't need to purchase an expensive extended warranty to do these things!!!

Millions of people do exactly what you describe everyday and don't have an extended warranty.
 
Yes gap for 499, doc fee was a couple hundred bucks.
Dealer arranged the tint for me. Personal favor. 299 for both front windows and the windshield in pinnacle f1 ceramic.

Is anyone selling gtr and sig for under invoice while overallowing by 1500+ on trade?

I always work up to the top 1-2% income in my field for my area.

The dealer DID NOT "overallow" $1500 on the trade. This is a well-known sales tactic...

They will artificially inflate the trade-in value, then give you less of a discount on the new car OR make it up in the F&I office. It sounds like they did both to you. Dealers do not care how the numbers (trade-in value and purchase price) are divvied up. They manipulate them in whatever way is necessary to get you to buy.
- The dealer made at least $1000 on the extended warranty.
- Plus another $200 on the doc fee.
- And another few hundred on the GAP insurance.
- Then $50-$100 on the window tint.
- If financing flowed through the dealer, then they got a kickback from that too.
- And they probably could have went another $1000+ lower on the purchase price.

As you can see, they more than made up for any "overallowing" on the trade-in from all of the extras you paid for in the F&I office.

And you mention you are in the top 1%-2% of income for your field.
If this is the case, then why in the hell are you still financing a vehicle from TWO trade-in's ago, that you got rid of FOUR years ago?
 
Holy hell, so many opinionated posts about extended warranty. Can't we just leave it at the fact that he got it for the added peace of mind?

Yes, you can DIY a repair, turning a costly dealer service bill into a receipt for the parts required and some of your own personal time. Yes, you can take it to an independent shop for repair as well. The bill will likely be cheaper, but you may not get a loaner vehicle or shuttle, which could mean more personal time spent away from work/family.

The way I see it, without an extended warranty, there are a lot of variables to consider. Some are prepared/willing to handle those variables as they come. Others aren't. Warranties are a convenience item. Something breaks, dealer covers it. Car's in the shop? Here's a loaner. Initial $50 repair assessment goes up to $2200 upon closer inspection? No worries, the warranty foots the bill for you. For me, it's not so much about getting my money's worth in paying for the warranty, it's more about not having to worry as much while I'm in the warranty period. And yes, I'm one of those people who won't buy something if it doesn't have a factory warranty. Nothing is "bulletproof".


It seems a lot of people here are most interested in proving Uno wrong and blatantly shoving it in his face. I took a jab or two myself, but to rake him over the coals for spending his own money on something he wanted? How dare he. Lol
 
The dealer DID NOT "overallow" $1500 on the trade. This is a well-known sales tactic...

They will artificially inflate the trade-in value, then give you less of a discount on the new car OR make it up in the F&I office. It sounds like they did both to you. Dealers do not care how the numbers (trade-in value and purchase price) are divvied up. They manipulate them in whatever way is necessary to get you to buy.
- The dealer made at least $1000 on the extended warranty.
- Plus another $200 on the doc fee.
- And another few hundred on the GAP insurance.
- Then $50-$100 on the window tint.
- If financing flowed through the dealer, then they got a kickback from that too.
- And they probably could have went another $1000+ lower on the purchase price.

As you can see, they more than made up for any "overallowing" on the trade-in from all of the extras you paid for in the F&I office.

And you mention you are in the top 1%-2% of income for your field.
If this is the case, then why in the hell are you still financing a vehicle from TWO trade-in's ago, that you got rid of FOUR years ago?

Just a note, I think it depends on the state, but the dealer can charge whatever they want for the doc fee as long as it is listed on the invoice. Not sure if this was the case with Uno's car.
 
Just a note, I think it depends on the state, but the dealer can charge whatever they want for the doc fee as long as it is listed on the invoice. Not sure if this was the case with Uno's car.

They disclosed the doc fee. I don't honestly remember it. It wasn't untoward.
 
You don't need to purchase an expensive extended warranty to do these things!!!

Millions of people do exactly what you describe everyday and don't have an extended warranty.

When it's their heater core:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123867003-Heater-Core

Their leaky engine:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123854976-Small-Oil-leak-for-me-too-(

Their head gasket:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123861952-2-2-diesel-head-gasket

Their transmission:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123866979-2013-Trasmission-whine-at-43k

or other items that I could find if I went to "page 2" or beyond on the CX5 Engine forum, they sure as hell wished they had a warranty. One of our esteemed mods even managed to nuke his transmission, although a bit of hooning about is as likely as anything to blame, there have been plenty of others just on this forum, just on the time here, who have done same without said fun involved.

Let's not get into the LED headlight thing...$1700 a pop.
 
The dealer DID NOT "overallow" $1500 on the trade. This is a well-known sales tactic...

They will artificially inflate the trade-in value, then give you less of a discount on the new car OR make it up in the F&I office. It sounds like they did both to you. Dealers do not care how the numbers (trade-in value and purchase price) are divvied up. They manipulate them in whatever way is necessary to get you to buy.
- The dealer made at least $1000 on the extended warranty.
- Plus another $200 on the doc fee.
- And another few hundred on the GAP insurance.
- Then $50-$100 on the window tint.
- If financing flowed through the dealer, then they got a kickback from that too.
- And they probably could have went another $1000+ lower on the purchase price.

As you can see, they more than made up for any "overallowing" on the trade-in from all of the extras you paid for in the F&I office.

And you mention you are in the top 1%-2% of income for your field.
If this is the case, then why in the hell are you still financing a vehicle from TWO trade-in's ago, that you got rid of FOUR years ago?

-It's not like my income field is full of millionaires, lol! For all you know I could be the top 1% burger flipper. Further, I pour my money into pretty much everything BUT vehicles (my house, my land, my class 3 firearm collection, whatever.). My vehicle for the last 4 years of my life has been an afterthought after all the other things are done. Now those other things are squared away, and the vehicle situation got some attention. I don't mind carrying a car note. Sure, I'd love not to, but not enough to risk the deer vs. GAP vs. time equation, so it will be what it will, lol! The car note actually comes out of my check before I even see it. Maybe I shouldn't do that, so I can actually see what I'm missing? I now have a warranty to cover any expenses for the life of the loan, which alleviates that annoyance.

-I keep rolling the - equity over because the interest rate vs. the odds of hitting a deer make it a titillating game of chance that would make me feel awful if I used my money instead of the bank's GAP...
-The only thing they got off me was DOC and Warranty. I declined the warranty on day 1, after they refused to budge on price. I came back 2 days later and they still refused to budge. I don't know any other tactics than to turn it down 100% and leave the dealer for 2 days, lol! But yeah, they may have made that on me. That's cool.
-They sell their SIG/GTR at invoice. It's just how they do there. Many of our dealerships are not commission based, etc. and they use set prices to cut out some of the dickering. Don't like it? Leave. Like it? Great, nothing to argue about except the trade and what you want thrown in (I got all weather mats).
-I don't do dealer financing. Their rates aren't very good.
-Could they have? Dealer hold back on those isn't much. The only thing they made on the front of the deal on the vehicle itself was the doc fee basically. I saw their entire screen. GM worked the deal up in front of me, with his screen turned to face me, in his office. I don't know how much more transparent it gets?
-I used to do the job. I know how dealers make money. They did make money on doc, and on warranty, and if they can flip my car for a good price, they will get some on the back-end, too, but it's not a deal I would be telling anyone about back when I sold cars for a living. They moved a unit, and finance made money on the warranty (which was priced lower than my CU's warranty, and was 25K miles longer).
 
They sure as hell wished they had a warranty....

Actually, you are completely wrong on ALL of the examples you provided!

Here are the outcomes...
  • When it's their heater core: A 2013 model that the owner fixed themselves at minimal cost.
  • Their leaky engine: A 2015 model, with the repair fully covered under the factory warranty.
  • Their head gasket: A diesel model in Australia. It was completely covered by the factory warranty.
  • Their transmission: A 2013 model. Mazda covered all costs except $1000.

All of these people would be far better off with $2700 in their pockets than spending that on an extended warranty.
 
You don't need to purchase an expensive extended warranty to do these things!!!

Millions of people do exactly what you describe everyday and don't have an extended warranty.
You're absolutely %100 right! Didn't NEED to, have done the things you mentioned before. I WANTED to. And it wasn't that expensive.
 
For me, it's not so much about getting my money's worth in paying for the warranty, it's more about not having to worry as much while I'm in the warranty period.

What exactly would you be so worried about?

You happily plunked down $2700 on an extended warranty (using unob as an example), so a $2700 repair shouldn't even make you flinch, had you opted not to get the warranty.

So the only "worry" you have are repairs that cost MORE than the $2700 warranty...and only repairs that happen during a narrow time frame (between when your factory warranty ends and your extended warranty ends).
 
Actually, you are completely wrong on ALL of the examples you provided!

Here are the outcomes...
  • When it's their heater core: A 2013 model that the owner fixed themselves at minimal cost. I have things I need to be doing for a few days other than working on my vehicle, but yes, I saw that.
  • Their leaky engine: A 2015 model, with the repair fully covered under the factory warranty. Yep, except he's still having issues and his warranty is about out...mine will last 250% longer than his...
  • Their head gasket: A diesel model in Australia. It was completely covered by the factory warranty.Yep, and see above...250% longer timeframe of no-problem for me.
  • Their transmission: A 2013 model. Mazda covered all costs except $1000. Well, that alone would be 50% of my warranty cost almost.

All of these people would be far better off with $2700 in their pockets than spending that on an extended warranty.

Wait and see...their ownership experiences are still young, and they've already had significant difficulties.
 
What exactly would you be so worried about?

You happily plunked down $2700 on an extended warranty (using unob as an example), so a $2700 repair shouldn't even make you flinch, had you opted not to get the warranty.

So the only "worry" you have are repairs that cost MORE than the $2700 warranty...and only repairs that happen during a narrow time frame (between when your factory warranty ends and your extended warranty ends).

Typically you don't have the option to finance a $2400 repair at 3.24% for 72mo...
By "narrow timeframe", are you referring to the 10 year and 150K mile bumper to bumper warranty I have, vs. the 3/36 bumper to bumper that your car came with? That definition of "narrow" is darn near Biblical!

When my rear diff died (covered by warranty), it was a $2800 repair, and I got a loaner if I needed it. No stress. Warranties are nice.
 
Just a note, I think it depends on the state, but the dealer can charge whatever they want for the doc fee as long as it is listed on the invoice.

You are correct, it is state dependent. There is a cap in my state.

But the larger point is...
You shouldn't state that you purchased a vehicle for "invoice", but neglect to include dealer fees, which are pure dealer profit.

It is disingenuous to say "I bought a CX-5 for $2000 under invoice," yet fail to disclose that you paid a $3000 "doc" fee.
 
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