How to make Custom Sway Bar End links

Every time I need to take them off, I soak in PBBlaster overnight, hit them again, soak overnight, then hit them with the impact gun. That's only worked once though. Every other time I've used a die grinder with cut off disc and cut the nut off.
 
Every time I need to take them off, I soak in PBBlaster overnight, hit them again, soak overnight, then hit them with the impact gun. That's only worked once though. Every other time I've used a die grinder with cut off disc and cut the nut off.

i agree, i soaked some old endlinks in PBB and only one side came off after some muscle, but the other side is a b**** to take off so it is soaking and i am gonna try and put it on some vice grips and hit with the impact gun to see if that works, if not, i am grinding that off.
 
finally! i had to grind them off. but the new ones are on and they feel great! i've been running around town with the sway bar dangling for a couple days now and WOW what a difference the sway bar makes. oh a quick question though i put the end links on the outside of the bar, is that going to be a problem? looks like this.
 

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my mp3 doesnt seem to be as responsive since i put on my cusom sway bar end links. It might all be in my head, but just feels mushy on turns, less predictable. my end links are a bit longer than stock. does it matter if the links are longer or shorter for that matter?
 
not really. the idea of the endlink size, is to keep the sway bar parallel with the ground(while it's loaded).. so make sure when it's sitting on the ground, that the sway bar is parallel
 
I readjusted my endlinks today...they were about an inch too short on the front. I was wondering what was clunking in the front....turns out the swaybar was kinda at a 45 degree when I went to look at it. Way too short. So I just used the stock endlink length. Now it works perfect.
 
I readjusted my endlinks today...they were about an inch too short on the front. I was wondering what was clunking in the front....turns out the swaybar was kinda at a 45 degree when I went to look at it. Way too short. So I just used the stock endlink length. Now it works perfect.

and what is the stock endlink length?
 
Stock front endlinks are 12" end to end. Stock MSP rear end links are around 8" end to end. Only reason why the second is an estimate is because the parts catalog does not have the measurement in the description like it does for the fronts.
 
Stock front endlinks are 12" end to end. Stock MSP rear end links are around 8" end to end. Only reason why the second is an estimate is because the parts catalog does not have the measurement in the description like it does for the fronts.

well the Ball end joints from McMasters, are 1.5" so 3 for both. So the rod needs to be cut to 9" to make a set of stock length endlinks. Or am i off here? does the rod need to be cut alittle longer to compensate for screwing the ball end joints onto the rod?
 
The rods will need to be trimmed if you bought 12" length. My guess is the rod length will need to be around 10" overall. The end links don't have to be 12" exactly, especially if you lowered your car. The MSP ones might even be too long, but Mazda figured they could get away with the same end links in the front because the struts were set up the same.

1. Go to your car, unhook stock end links, set sway up to be parallel with the ground (while your car is on the ground), and measure from the sway bar to the strut mount. That's your overall length.
2. Thread the rod into your rod end, mark the rod end, unthread it, measure the threaded length (this length should also be available on McMasters site, noted by "A" in the specs).
3. Cut the rod to the correct length, which will be:
Overall Length = (Rod end length - thread length) + rod + (Rod end length - thread length)


For example:
Using this rod end: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6072k333/=3mmvbv
A = 1.1875"
E = 1.625"
Difference = .4375"
Difference * 2 = .875"
So, your rod end length for the entire piece is .875"
If my desired length is 12" from sway bar hole to mount hole, I need to cut my rod to 11.125".
 
Also, if you cut a threaded rod, thread a few nuts onto the rod and use them to chase out the threads after you make the cut.
 
You don't have to get that technical with your measurements. 1/2" one way or the other won't make that huge a difference. We're not running F1/NASCAR here.
 
i will soon i think. would sweeten the deal if someone has a good deal on megan or similar lowering springs ;) looking for a 2" drop all around.
I don't like working on the same things twice if i can avoid it heh.
 
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