How to:Installing AWR rear/bottom mount

Mounted!

Took my mechanic 20 minutes; he said it was the easiest thing he's ever done. Of course, he's got a lift, and every tool he could need handy. Actually cost me only $25 to have it mounted.

What a difference it makes, especially with the TWM shifter base bushings - that I did myself in an hour. The car is just much easier to shift and toss at curvy roads..

Anyway, this tutorial definitely helped us out.
 
Quick question: About the vibrations you guys keep saying, any way to get rid of them? Just loktite the whole thing real good before bolting it in?
 
I noticed the 3 19mm bolts holding the bracket in place did not show any residual loctite once I removed them; only the 2 17mm bolts showed any. So I made sure to loctite all 5 when I installed the new AWR mount. The vibrations are not caused by loose bolts. They are caused by the stiffer material used in the bushing for the mount.

If you don't want vibration, I'd suggest you only use the TWM shifter base bushings. I don't have them myself, but would imagine they help. It's amazing how much the engine moves when the tranny mount is off...you can wiggle the bejezus outta the engine!
 
But what if I install the mount AND the new shift bushings?

Would that help with the vibration along with the "stiffen your Mazda 3 shifter - for $4" mod?
 
BlackJack said:
But what if I install the mount AND the new shift bushings?

Would that help with the vibration along with the "stiffen your Mazda 3 shifter - for $4" mod?
uh... if you did the 'stiffen your shifter' thing.. you cant put in the new bushings because you just epoxied them in there.
 
I didn't do it yet, per se....I'm just wondering of ways to reduce the vibration.

Would it be better to do this engine mount or just epoxy the air space on the old mount?
 
I have the 88 and there is little vibration during idle and a slight inhance when the a/c is kicked on, but I can live with it considering all my mods and the turbo back soon be installed. Is a short shifter worth it guys, or would I be better off with just changing out my bushings to steel or aluminum???
 
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knowledge007 said:
I have the 88 and there is little vibration during idle and a slight inhance when the a/c is kicked on, but I can live with it considering all my mods and the turbo back soon be installed. Is a short shifter worth it guys, or would I be better off with just changing out my bushings to steel or aluminum???
AFAIK there is no short shifter for the speed3, at least not yet. You could do this: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123661188
 
BlackJack said:
I didn't do it yet, per se....I'm just wondering of ways to reduce the vibration.

Would it be better to do this engine mount or just epoxy the air space on the old mount?
I have both. The mount and the shifter bushings. Feels awesome together.
 
BlackJack said:
Quick question: About the vibrations you guys keep saying, any way to get rid of them? Just loktite the whole thing real good before bolting it in?

Yeah! Go back to the stock mount. Thread locker (Loctite) won't do it. The smaller size of the bushing, the lack of air gaps in it and it's stiffness of the material is what does it.
I would like to see AWR make a 60D (+/-) mount for most of us, but I can live w/the 70. It's buzzy, but solid.
The 88D must be ridiculous for the street, IMHO.

 
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Well, I know Street Unit is currently making one so I am keeping my eye on their website. I keep hearing that their mount will be smaller than the AWR mounts.

EDIT: their website states 62A bushings. If that is true, I will be waiting for that!
 
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Smaller? That's liable to make it even stiffer yet? Using 62D material (Polyurethane) will only help if the bushing is the same size or larger than the AWR... unless the are talking about an overall rating, but I doubt it.

 
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bbrich57 said:
Yeah! Go back to the stock mount. Thread locker (Loctite) won't do it. The smaller size of the bushing, the lack of air gaps in it and it's stiffness of the material is what does it.
I would like to see AWR make a 60D (+/-) mount for most of us, but I can live w/the 70. It's buzzy, but solid.
The 88D must be ridiculous for the street, IMHO.


Its cool, I can live with it...well see after I install my turbo back... see if I should go to the 70 or not...
 
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IMO, the downside to the 70A AWR mount is more than outweighed by the goodside. So there's some vibe at idle, no biggy. For increased performance, you have to sacrifice a little comfort.
 

Oh, I don't disagree w/you. Sometimes I like the primitive feel the car has now, but most ppl wouldn't understand. My wife, my mother and others who might ride w/me, for example.
And for day-to-day/every day driving is there really a need to have to put up w/the bad?
The truth be told, I gave up a slight vibration @ 50-55 MPH in the stock mount, 1) for a kick whenever I start the car, 2) steering wheel/body vibration @ idle and stoplights, and 3) generally more noise transmitted to the interior from the drivetrain.
Only crazy ppl, like us car nuts, would be able to appreciate all that.
 
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What's great is that it's so gosh darn easy to put the stock mount back. Like I'll prolly do when I drive to Chicago to visit my bro. in June.
 
Tjay said:
I went over this thread real quick and I see some of u guys are already talking smack.

I just finish installing the MS-CAI I did it a little over a hour. I'm about to do the mounts then I will read all of ya'lls bitchin' :)

All I have to say to that is you are way behind...
 
WagonMan said:
I would say yes they will blame the AWR mount and yes they will notice it.

And I think it will be tough to argue that the AWR mount did not place additional stress on the other mounts. There is no question that one stiffer mount will place additional stress on the others.

I'm not saying the other mounts should break due to that additonal stress (they should be stronger then that), just noting the fact.

As well you can bet they will be taking a close look at all the mounts, so the AWR will stand out.

The rear mount would more accurately be called a torque mount. For the same reason you don't need to jack up the engine when you replace the mount, a stiffer torque mount would not put other (weight-bearing) mounts under significantly more stress.
 

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