HOW TO: Change your own oil

I must have the steeper rhino ramps. today when I changed my oil I had to use pieces of wood to avoid scraping
 
mspeed3 617 said:
looks good..

DIY FTW...

I just use a jack and some jack stands...
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placing the jack and jack stand on ms3 is a b****....all my work begins with positioning the two and it takes long as hell to position them. I have to buy that ramp. I was gonna do my oil today but friggin hydraulic jack sunk on hot asphalt. so pissed
 
wmherman said:
The washer is simply a flat, aluminum washer. You should be able to reuse it multiple times unless you damage it somehow.
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The washer is not meant to be re-used. It is an annealed aluminum non-heat-treated washer. The idea here is that it deforms to match any irregularity as you crank down on the drain plug, thus sealing. This deformation is called "cold working" and it creates a finer grain structure in the metal which effectively hardens it. The problem then with re-using the washer is that it is not as soft the second time around and it may not seal as well. For $1, it is pretty cheap to just use a new one each time. Copper sealing rings are the same in that they get cold-worked and harder when you use them.

hilmar2k said:
Mine is also an '08.

The angle of the ramp is also different, which is why it won't go up the heavier duty version (steeper angle on that one).
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No, this is not correct. Both versions of Rhino Ramps have a 17 degree incline and are the same total height. The only difference between the two versions is the width of the heavy duty version and also the top platform of the heavy duty version is slightly longer to accomodate larger diameter tires more comfortably.

If your car won't go up the HD version, it won't go up the 8000lb version either. You need to go to a shallower angle, such as the RaceRamps: http://www.discountramps.com/low_profile_car_ramp.htm or build your own out of some 2x10s from Home Depot.
 
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any reason we couldn't find a part number for a drain plug with rubber gasket that would fit our application?
 
Maybe im just missing something but do u really need the supposed engine cover on the bottom with all those clips and bolts. Other then to help aerodynamics under the car is it really neccessary?
 
not to mention corrosion protection from limiting how much water and crap can get up there from the road.
 
By the way, i've been looking through this thread and don't see the official torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt mentioned. What is it?
 
use german torque "gooden tight" dont crank on it go to where it snugs down light pressure on wrench then while holding wrench tap hand in tightning way
 
nhluhr said:
By the way, i've been looking through this thread and don't see the official torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt mentioned. What is it?
Click to expand...

According to the service manual:

-Oil pan drain plug: 30-41 N.m {23-30 ft.lbs}
-Oil fliter cover: 30-35 N.m {22.2-25.8 ft.lbs}
-Oil filter drain plug: 9-11 N.m {79.6-97.2 in.lbs}
 
Yes

AP1NEEDED said:
Maybe im just missing something but do u really need the supposed engine cover on the bottom with all those clips and bolts. Other then to help aerodynamics under the car is it really neccessary?
Click to expand...
For lots of reasons . I agree it is a pain though.
 
I haven't had one on my 3 since I bought it in March and I don't know how long the previous owner had the car without it. Nothing's gone wrong yet...but I'll probably be ordering one eventually. There goes $150 down the drain...

mind you I don't have a CAI or anything so water getting splashed up there isn't too much of an issue for me.
 
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