Dad took CX-5 at 56k miles in for routine maintenance and these were the recommended repairs
- Thread starter hhsuey
- Start date
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- W WA
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- 2024 CX-5 Premium
It's possible that the tensioner needs replacing, you can check for yourself by just opening the hood and looking at it. If the tensioner needs replacing then the belts should be done at the same time. The price they quote for these items is obscene, should be less than $300 in parts and an hour labor.
The rear brakes may need replacing, mine did at that mileage. Did they provide a sheet with more detail, like the measurements they used to determine that they needed replacing? Should have specified remaining percentage or millimeters on pads and on the rotor thickness. I would also want more specificity on the rotors, are they really going to machine them? The common practice these days seems to be replace rotors when pads are replaced.
Brake fluid flush should be done every 2-3 years. Their price seems reasonable.
Fuel induction service, no, I would not pay for this, a pure upcharge.
Coolant flush, maybe, depends on how old the car is and whether it's been done before. The manual for my 2019 says 120K miles or 10 years before coolant needs to be changed.
The rear brakes may need replacing, mine did at that mileage. Did they provide a sheet with more detail, like the measurements they used to determine that they needed replacing? Should have specified remaining percentage or millimeters on pads and on the rotor thickness. I would also want more specificity on the rotors, are they really going to machine them? The common practice these days seems to be replace rotors when pads are replaced.
Brake fluid flush should be done every 2-3 years. Their price seems reasonable.
Fuel induction service, no, I would not pay for this, a pure upcharge.
Coolant flush, maybe, depends on how old the car is and whether it's been done before. The manual for my 2019 says 120K miles or 10 years before coolant needs to be changed.
Gotta love stealerships. Hate them to the core but that's their job to bring in money.
@stickerbush thanks for the details. We'll look into those.
All: Thanks for the comments. My dad agred to only do the (first row) services covered under warrented for now. We will try to take him to a trusted mechanic as well.
All: Thanks for the comments. My dad agred to only do the (first row) services covered under warrented for now. We will try to take him to a trusted mechanic as well.
Sure looks like they're attempting to fund the new boat for the service department, IMO.
Uncertain which specific model and year your father's CX-5 is, but the owners manual ought to reference most of that list (either for "R" replacement or "I" inspection) ... including for the oil/filter, the drive belts (which includes the tensioner for those belts), the brakes (which includes the fluid), coolant.
Regarding the list suggested ... if 56Kmi and "regularly maintained and serviced", then:
- Oil + filter, full synthetic -- Sure. Might find an independent shop that uses a comparable oil and quality filter, for less; or, can save ~50% off that quoted price by doing it yourself, with a suitable oil/filter
- Belts + tensioner -- $890 is a grand rip-off, IMO. My own CX-5 broke the drive belt at 80Kmi, so at roughly 60Kmi would be about the point where I'd want to get it done, along with the tensioner. But the price quoted by that dealership for the pair (belts + tensioner) is obscene. Can't imagine it being any more than half that overall price, even at the dealership. An independent might be able to cut the price considerably.
- Brakes, rear -- Sure. If the wear on the pads is down to the point where the job is needed. For that price, though, I'd expect new rotors instead of machined. What was the documented remaining width of the brake pads? (My shop gives me an itemized check-list of what they evaluated and found, including how much of the pads are remaining.)
- Brake fluid -- Per the owners manual, flush at 2yrs is recommended, though I wouldn't have an issue with waiting 3yrs. To my knowledge, brake fluids are still hygroscopic. An independent shop ought to be capable of cutting that price by quite a bit. But, yes, after a couple of years, consider doing it.
- Coolant flush -- Not at the first 50Kmi, unless very harsh usage. Ought to be at 120Kmi the first time, then every 60Kmi after that. Did mine at 80Kmi, as I wasn't certain of how harshly the thing had been driven, but it'll be done at +60Kmi next time.
- Fuel injector cleaning -- Can't imagine why, unless there are clear indications of wonky behavior, or the car scan is throwing numbers indicating issues there.
- Alignment -- Isn't in the owners manual, but alignment issues ought to show up either with wonky tire wear and/or strange pulling on the steering wheel that needs correction. Unless one of these, or some damaged suspension part needs installation that affects alignment, I can't imagine why it'd be needed now.
Plus, you've got a couple of items hand-written at the bottom of that list: valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket. While it's certainly possible one or both of these has some leaking around the seal, I'd fully expect to be shown the proofs of this before wanting to shell out for a gasket re-do. Might do a decent de-greasing and cleaning all around the couple inches above and below the valve cover gasket seal edge, then seeing if you get any leaks between now and the next oil change. Same with the oil pan itself. Can drop the plastic coverings under the car, then do the same around the oil pan's seal area, and then check it in another 5Kmi+. Hard to imagine that both would be needed at 56Kmi, though stranger things have happened.
These service quotes people post are wild. I can’t believe the prices charged. My local dealer wants $70 for an oil change and I started doing my own due to the cost. I can’t imagine paying $143 for one. We’re living in a wild time where Covid made companies believe the public would pay anything to have anything done for them. We need to stop giving these places the business or they’ll keep gouging people.
Well, to be fair, the dealer quote the OP listed (for $143) was for oil/filter and tire rotation. But, still, a 5qt jug of suitable full synth 0W-20 plus a good filter isn't anywhere near $100, assuming a person's got the basic tools and time to DIY.
With tires, typically I get mine at DiscountTire. While their out-the-door prices are higher than many places they're inclusive of tire rotations and fixes for the life of the tire, which helps cut the price of tires by one-third. Or DIY, assuming a person has a floor jack for a DIY rotation. Used to, but with old injuries I can't do the lifting and twisting I once did, so it's shops for me.
The brake job...at that price, which is about the same around here, would include new rotors, not machined in these parts.
$143 for an oil/filter change and rotate tires...man, they must be using gold plated tools. Realizing inflation is out of whack to put it mildly, yeah, find that trusted mechanic. Dealers have tons of overhead so you're probably not going to find a good deal there.
$143 for an oil/filter change and rotate tires...man, they must be using gold plated tools. Realizing inflation is out of whack to put it mildly, yeah, find that trusted mechanic. Dealers have tons of overhead so you're probably not going to find a good deal there.
My experience has been when the words "recommended" and "suggested" appear on an estimate you can bet that > 90% of the time it's not necessary but only benefits someone's bottom line. That writeup is outrageous in both what's recommended/suggested as well as pricing. Heed the others warnings here and run away.
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Just FYI, the standard cost at my dealer for oil/rotation is $80. Maybe you need to buy this for your service manager for Christmas:
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
For me, whether or not some of the listed prices are close to what they should be (not to even mention whether they're needed or not at this time), the fact that the dealership is CLEARLY over charging (aka attempting to rip you off) for other services would have me heading for the door and never to return.
Hello Mazda of Temecula
Goodbye Mazda of Temecula
Hello Mazda of Temecula
Goodbye Mazda of Temecula
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
And just EXACTLY what is BG brake fluid conditioner? In all of my years I have never heard of brake fluid conditioner.
BG = Big Grin.
That's what the dealership gets when they sell you this snake oil.
GTXT23
LightFoot
Welcome to the forum , and its great that you posted the service recc's instead of trying to explain it ... because ...it would be very hard to believe this was true ....What year is your 5 ? Im guessing that its 2017-18 ? Was it left outside , in poor conditions for years -- or garaged ?
I could see some of this as preventative ,-- The prices are the killer !!
coolant seems way way early,- even GM cars go 10 yrs / 100+ k on coolant and still at days end coolant is mainly about seal / radiator core protection --Mazdas been using FL-22 coolant for a long time and thats 120K/ 10yr stuff - In Ownwer manual --going back decades , belt tensioner $446.92- no comment ---! Fuel induction service $227.95-yikes ! - pour a can of 44K in the tank -- call it a day $20, see if it helps - service writers gone wild !! ......... --I agree with others here on....about everything .....
breaking this down and going thru each item methodically , checking the owners manual for service intervals on each , then inspecting each item yourself for the validity - very sorry to see this -I hope you can find a place you feel comfortable with and trust --- are you able to do any of this yourself ?
Oil / filter change : theres $110 off that $151 -( filter=$10, -5-qt jug Mobil-1 or Castrol= $30/ oil plug gasket= $1.20 / total oil change cost DIY = $41.20 )--Invest the $110 you saved in tools !
Were going into a DIY age, do it yourself or they tear you a new one- could be a good new motto for some dealers ! , Try starting with simple things like an oil change , which gives you confidence to do something else ...also you can start learning to inspect the brakes , belts , gaskets , oil pan, fluids ( you should do this anyway ) etc yourself and take some control of the situation --best
GTXT23
LightFoot
.....looks like the lubing has already begun !
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