Preventative Maintenance List for 10 year old / 150k mile CX-5

First post! We just purchased a 2015 CX5 Grand Touring with all the options! We are the second owners, the CX5 has never been in a fender bender and is in good condition. Very little rust on it due to it spending its entire life in the south. The CX5 was first purchased in fall of 2014, so the 10 year anniversary is coming up soon. I hope for this vehicle to last to 250k or even 300k, so I'd like to perform preventative maintenance.

I have some maintenance records, but no deep maintenance has been done. The only fluid (besides oil) that has been changed is brake fluid (done 3 years ago at 98k).

Here is my maintenance list, but any advice or additions are appreciated!

Engine
  • Oil change w/ 0w-20 and new filter
  • Engine air filter
  • Spark plugs (per maintenance schedule replace every 75k, so they are due even if they were replaced once already)
  • Replace accessory serpentine belt
  • Replace serpentine belt tensioner
  • Intake valve cleaning (Seafoam spray)

Transmission
  • Replace transmission filter and replace with Mazda ATF (approx 6 quarts)

Cooling System
  • Note: I want to be aggressive here because I understand cooling system issues can lead to engine overheating, which economically means the engine would need to be replaced due to warped heads
  • Drain and replace coolant
  • Replace water pump
  • Replace water pump belt
  • Replace upper and lower radiator hoses
  • Replace thermostat? (Not sure if this is worth doing as it is buried and failure doesn't lead to engine overheating)

Suspension
  • Replace control arms (control arm bushings are cracking so it's time)
  • Shocks seem to be in good shape, so thinking about keeping them
Brakes
  • Flush brake fluid
 
Did you get service records?

Is it AWD? If so rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid.

I haven't seen any problems on this forum related to water pumps or thermostats and I've been here close to 10 years. It doesn't seem to be a Mazda problem.
If the hoses are in good shape I wouldn't replace them now.
 
Water pump seems costly to replace on Mazdas. (lift up engine to get to it.... If I am not mistaken)
Better skip it if there is no problem. I agree with wlong01.

Without detailed maintenance records, I would replace all fluids.
For others, I would replace them only if I see signs of issues.
 
Did you get service records?

Is it AWD? If so rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid.

I haven't seen any problems on this forum related to water pumps or thermostats and I've been here close to 10 years. It doesn't seem to be a Mazda problem.
If the hoses are in good shape I wouldn't replace them now.
I did get service records. Nothing particularly interesting; typical oil changes, air filter changes, tires, and brakes. There is a nice AGM battery in there, but no record for the battery. They said they've never had any issues with it.

FWD so no transfer case or differential.

Good to hear the cooling systems are so reliable. A new Aisin waterpump is $50 or so, so it didn't seem too expensive. But no need to replace parts if they last forever.

I'm definitely planning on the belts and tensioner because I hear a squeal on cold startup (guessing its the tensioner allowing the belt to slip momentarily).

One thing I forgot to mention is my oldest will take it to college (far away) at the end of summer so I probably won't see it for 8 months or so. Hoping to get it reliable to avoid issues and expensive repair bills.
 
First post! We just purchased a 2015 CX5 Grand Touring with all the options! We are the second owners, the CX5 has never been in a fender bender and is in good condition. Very little rust on it due to it spending its entire life in the south. The CX5 was first purchased in fall of 2014, so the 10 year anniversary is coming up soon. I hope for this vehicle to last to 250k or even 300k, so I'd like to perform preventative maintenance.

I have some maintenance records, but no deep maintenance has been done. The only fluid (besides oil) that has been changed is brake fluid (done 3 years ago at 98k).

Here is my maintenance list, but any advice or additions are appreciated!

Engine
  • Oil change w/ 0w-20 and new filter
  • Engine air filter
  • Spark plugs (per maintenance schedule replace every 75k, so they are due even if they were replaced once already)
  • Replace accessory serpentine belt
  • Replace serpentine belt tensioner
  • Intake valve cleaning (Seafoam spray)

Transmission
  • Replace transmission filter and replace with Mazda ATF (approx 6 quarts)

Cooling System
  • Note: I want to be aggressive here because I understand cooling system issues can lead to engine overheating, which economically means the engine would need to be replaced due to warped heads
  • Drain and replace coolant
  • Replace water pump
  • Replace water pump belt
  • Replace upper and lower radiator hoses
  • Replace thermostat? (Not sure if this is worth doing as it is buried and failure doesn't lead to engine overheating)

Suspension
  • Replace control arms (control arm bushings are cracking so it's time)
  • Shocks seem to be in good shape, so thinking about keeping them
Brakes
  • Flush brake fluid
A couple of suggestions:

1. With 147,000 miles, you can use Mazda recommended (world wide other than the US and Canada) 5W-30 full-synthetic SP oil, your engine will like it a lot!

2. Use only OEM PE5R-18-110A, or NGK ILKAR7L11 / 94124 iridium spark plugs for your 2.5L NA.

3. Replace serpentine belt and water pump stretch belt at the same time. Replace the tensioner is an excellent idea even if it hasn’t leaked already. Try to use OEM tensioner or at least an INA tensioner. Get an OEM scratch water pump belt or you may have a hard time to put it on as the aftermarket belt like Gates seems to be a bit smaller. Like the thermostat I wouldn’t replace the water pump unless it leaks, but it won’t hurt to replace it, just make sure you get a high quality one or even an OEM water pump.

4. Make sure to use (OEM) FL-22 coolant.

5. Check the VVT solenoid oil control valve which is located on top of the engine under the plastic cover and most likely it’s leaking:

2B5B552E-2B34-4998-A815-65EE99F2FBD0.jpeg


If it leaks, you can get the OEM PE01-14-420A part at partsouq.com for the best possible price.

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

6. At 147,000 miles, many would suggest you don’t touch the ATF if it has never got replaced. You may just try a simple drain-and-fill (about 3.75 quarts) first and see. If the transmission seems to be running fine then do a second D&F. Then the third time you can drop the pan and replace the ATF filter cartridge inside. Each drain on ATF you can only get about a half of the old ATF out, and do D&F 3 times you can replace about 87.5% of the ATF. Of course, use only OEM Mazda ATF FZ.

7. I recently replaced my front LCA on passenger side with an OEM LCA which definitely fits better.

8. At 147,000 miles, it seems to be a good time to replace all struts and shocks. The rear shocks are a bit tricky as after-market rear shocks don’t include the top mount which is very easy to be broken. Unfortunately the price on OEM rear shock which comes with the top mount has gone up 2X after the pandemic!

9. If your 2015 CX-5 GT is an AWD, you want to change the gear oil in front transfer case and rear differential but I’d use expensive OEM SG-1 gear oil Mazda used after 2016 MY instead of 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil specified in your 2015 CX-5 owner’s manual.

10. The specs on fluid capacity listed in the manual are approximate according to Mazda. Your 2.5L NA needs 5.25 quarts instead of 4.8 quarts said in the manual for engine oil change to get to the Full mark. You also need about 1.2 quarts total (0.48 quart front + 0.7 quart rear) for gear oil change on an AWD instead of 0.96 quart total (0.48 quart front + 0.48 quart rear) specified in the manual.
 
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Very similar boat here, Just bought my 2013 about a month ago with 140k, I just did:
the (manual) transmission fluid using 2qt Redline MTL
Skipped replacing plugs and coils as have recent record
Passenger control arm, bushings cracked and ball joint loose, I still need to replace the driver, used the 2nd gen CX-5 version as it appears to have a redesigned bushing that should be less prone to cracking
oil change

I still need to change
driver front control arm
brake fluid
coolant
vvt solenoid seal

We have a 2012 mazda 3 in the family with almost 170k (2.0 skyactiv) and it is still going on the original (oem) drive belts, tensioner and water pump. It has only ever had fluid changes, tires, brakes and ignition services done and been dead reliable, not that you should avoid any maintenance.
Don't forget the most important part, the tires!

Thank you yrwei52 for the comprehensive post!
 
⋯ Passenger control arm, bushings cracked and ball joint loose, I still need to replace the driver, used the 2nd gen CX-5 version as it appears to have a redesigned bushing that should be less prone to cracking
Are you saying you used a LCA from 2017 CX-5 and newer (Gen-2 CX-5)? Based on the TSBs Mazda had upgraded the rubber bushing on the LCA even for Gen-1 CX-5. That’s why I got a passenger-side OEM LCA (exact part number based on my VIN) for replacement.

Do try to use 5W-30 SP oil on your 2.0L. You’ll be happy about it especially on valve train noise.
 
Are you saying you used a LCA from 2017 CX-5 and newer (Gen-2 CX-5)? Based on the TSBs Mazda had upgraded the rubber bushing on the LCA even for Gen-1 CX-5. That’s why I got a passenger-side OEM LCA (exact part number based on my VIN) for replacement.

Do try to use 5W-30 SP oil on your 2.0L. You’ll be happy about it especially on valve train noise.
Yes, I am buying aftermarket parts, and it seems the aftermarket didn't pick up on the TSB/redesign for the 13-16 cars
I haven't noticed any valvetrain noises, but have heard good things about the mazda oil, I plan on trying it in the future, in both the 3 and CX5!
 
Yes, I am buying aftermarket parts, and it seems the aftermarket didn't pick up on the TSB/redesign for the 13-16 cars
I haven't noticed any valvetrain noises, but have heard good things about the mazda oil, I plan on trying it in the future, in both the 3 and CX5!
Mazda 0W-20 Moly oil which I’ve been using in my 2016 CX-5 since new is fine but it isn’t the latest SP oil. Mazda 5W-30 oil, according to some people’s research, is a re-badged Castrol GTX oil which may not be a full synthetic oil.

Here’s the oil viscosity chart from Mazda CX-5 Owner’s Manual world wide:

FCB8CAFE-4A04-4C66-B292-6BD26863CE44.jpeg

C119A2EB-F7E6-4402-AAD9-8CCE425455DA.jpeg
 
Since I have no noticeable oil consumption and drivetrain noise is fine with me… I’m sticking with Mazda 0W-20 Moly for this vehicle’s life. :)

@JustThisguy - I just did a full brake job (rotors, pads, hardware) and full brake fluid flush with a Motive bleeder




Dead simple one person job with the Motiv bleeder
 

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