What to expect at 100K miles? 2013 CX-5

[RonW]

Our 2013 CX-5 Sport is just reaching 100K miles and I'm wondering what to expect in necessary maintenance going forward. Basically we've just done oil changes so far, although we had the rear brake pads replaced 15K ago (with rotor resurfacing) and a set of new tires.

We currently have a "thump" in the right front suspension when turning hard into our garage and the front brakes brake unevenly in a hard braking situation. There's a little more engine noise than there was when it was brand new, but nothing concerning. It doesn't use any fluids when I check them.

These days my dealer is charging $155 an hour to even diagnose anything. I feel like I should get the front suspension and brakes looked into. What else should I do ( e.g. should the transmission fluid have been changed; should the engine belts been replaced) and how much maintenance can I expect going forward?

Thanks!

 

[Snorting2.5]

You can't match the coolant by color alone. At least I won't be doing this. If you feel safe, go right ahead. FL22 isn't that hard to get nor is it that much more expensive than other formulations. Why not use what Mazda recommends? No need to worry, you won't be feeding Mazda that much more of your money.

Personally, I would just go for fl22. I wasn't so happy to see that the mechanic I went to , didn't.

But, I really don't think it's much different from your typical Asian car coolant.

 

[7eregrine]

Glad to hear it. A friend has used them on his Mercedes.

I actually have a few good Firestone stories. I'll share one.

Went to Tirerack, found some tires, put in cart. Then thought "Let me support a local business and see if they can come close to the price." Called Firestone. Guy says "Well you can pay tax and buy from me, or pay shipping and buy from them. Just buy them on Tirerack and send them here...I'll mount them for you".
Did so.
He mounted them for free.
So I had them change the oil.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Personally, I would just go for fl22. I wasn't so happy to see that the mechanic I went to , didn't.

But, I really don't think it's much different from your typical Asian car coolant.

I bought my 2016 MX used in 2019. It had around 11k miles on it. When I inspected under the hood before purchase, I could see that the coolant in the overflow reservoir was 'murky'. At that point I had the CX for three years and I knew that Mazda recommended using FL22 only. I assumed that someone (CarMax most likely) had topped off the reservoir with something other than FL22. Opening up the radiator cap I could see that the coolant wasn't as murky as the reservoir but I didn't like the looks of it.

So, I bought a 5-liter jug of FL22 concentrate and then drained the entire cooling system and replaced it with the new stuff. Overkill? Maybe. I call it peace of mind.

 

[sm1ke]

Personally, I would just go for fl22. I wasn't so happy to see that the mechanic I went to , didn't.

But, I really don't think it's much different from your typical Asian car coolant.

On the note of coolant, I went to my dealership a few days ago to pick up a jug of FL22. The parts guy said they only had a few jugs of the OEM coolant left, due to a supply issue that held production back a few months. He told me that they've been using Prestone Max coolant for servicing the vehicles that come into the shop without issue. This stuff:

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca

Probably works just fine in a pinch, but my CX-9 needs a 55/45 mix so I was happy to get the FL22.

 

[AL Cx5]

Lots of good advise.

If you are handy working on farm equipment, you car is not much different. What you are going to spend on labor will buy a floor jack, jack stands and tools. Then you have the equipment for in the future. I got into doing my own work after experiencing shoddy work. I started out on the small stuff, oil changes, plugs, filters. Then on to trans fluid and filter. When I do use a shop, I'm educated because I have done most of the work and know what parts I want or supply.

Today I've swapped out engines, built up engines from a short block. Refreshed my transmission, replace differential gear, taken a dash out to replace heater/ac parts and so forth. Learning has been fun and pushing my edge develops new skill sets.

If you are buying on price you will get price parts. Not all parts are created equal. In fact there is a wide range in quality and life of parts. Do some research and either supply or have the shop use those parts. Don't assume they have your best interests, they are all about making a profit and getting that car off the rack for another car. I use to own a car repair shop. It's ALL about turning cars over to make a profit. They buy from the parts store that has the parts at the lowest price and on the shelf, regardless of the quality.

I wouldn't trust Firestone to use Mazda coolant. They will put in Universal type coolant. Trans fluid as well. If they use the wrong trans fluid, it could kill your trans. It would be in your best interest to buy the fluids and trans filter and take it to Firestone. Ask them if they have ever service a Mazda trans. I don't want tech learning on my car. Pay the dealer to do this item because they have the right fluid, filter and experience.

Brakes pads and rotors are all different. Ask what they use and what are some upgrades, Powerstop comes to mind. If you don't ask, you will get the cheapest pad and rotor they can get. I found on my truck, the stealership had two grades of brake pads, Value and OEM. The Value pad doesn't last nearly as long.

While they have the belt off, IF there is an idler pulley, replace it with the tensioner. Waiting until it starts making noise is to late. One item on the the belt vibrates the other component and makes all of them fail sooner, including the water pump and alternator. On a belt replacement, I replace the idler and tensioner. Ask what brand tensioner and idler. OR buy Mazda and have them install. Gates says an idler cycles 1 billion times per 100K.

Brake fluid? Brake fluid absorbs water. It's boiling point decreases with age. It there is panic stop, the caliper gets hot and boils the fluid. Then releases the brake pads. Also, dirt migrates into the system and kills caliper and the master cylinder. Use Mazda or DOT 4 or DOT 5.1.

Differential, at 100K it's time to change it. Dirt, clutch and metal material are circulating in the seals, gear box and bearings are wearing out with this in the fluid. I just changed out the diff on my truck. The rear seal was leaking and the bearings were worn. It was recommended to change the diff every 30k. I did it around 100k. Not any more!

Power steering fluid needs changing as well. Same deal as the brake and diff. Dirt migrates into the system. The pump and steering rack seals wear out. I just changed out a power steering pump, racket and hoses on a 265K truck. IF I had changed out the fluid rather than topping it off, it would still be going.

Is your gas mileage as good as when it was new? At a 100k sensors have lost some of their calibration and are sending the ECU faulting readings. So the ECU is not making the right adjustments to fuel and timing. The most bang for the buck, O2 sensors. Then MAP sensor. I change out all of my engine management sensor at a 100K. Like it's a tune up. Our 2009 Accord picked up 3 MPG after changing the engine management sensors. There is a payout. The car is more fun to drive and will LAST longer.

As and example. When O2 sensor fail, they fail telling the ECU it's running lean. The ECU dumps in more fuel, thinking it's running lean. Running rich washes the cylinder walls of critical oil and wears out the engine. It only takes a few inexpensive tools to change out sensors. ONLY use Mazda, not parts store, sensors. I've got a few bloody T shirts from trying to use parts store and eBay sensors.

I would do this in phases to make it budget friendly. I look at maintenance like a smaller car payment. It's OK to maintain all the components before they break.

The old saying: "A Penny wise is a dollar foolish" applies to car maintenance and quality of car parts.

Good Luck!!

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Just a reminder no power steering fluid on CX-5 as they all use electric power steering. Good advice though to change power steering fluid on vehicles with hydraulic racks.

I just used Zerex green coolant for Asian vehicles in mine. Ingredient list doesn’t make me think I’m mixing in something too foreign.

Green coolant?

Mazda changed to the 55/45 mix a few years ago because of an issue with heater cores rusting How does an aluminum heater core 'rust'? And even if it did, I can't see how reducing the water content from 50% to 45% would stop any corrosion. On a serious note, where did you come across this...

mazdas247.com

 

[ColtX-5]

Read the manual. You should have done spark plugs already. You would have had some greater service due at 90k miles and again at 120k. Little at 100k unless and oil change falls on that number. At 10 years/120k miles you are due a coolant change. Inspect the hoses, but none are likely to need changing. Newer cars use EPDM rubber in the hoses and they might well last the life of the car.

I have been changing lubes in all the drivetrain at 30k miles. But I also tow with mine. At 90k or 120k you might consider changing all the lubricants. read the manual.

 

[RonW]

I changed the plugs today. Was surprised to find oil on the threads of plugs 1 and 4. The ends of the plugs weren't oily. Only the threads. The other plugs were dry. What does this mean?

The car seems to be running well, maybe better than before. Drove it around the block and acceleration may be improved.

I suppose a compression test may be in order. But maybe Jiffy Lube just poured oil all over my engine and the threads got oiled as I took them out.

 

[AL Cx5]

I changed the plugs today. Was surprised to find oil on the threads of plugs 1 and 4. The ends of the plugs weren't oily. Only the threads. The other plugs were dry. What does this mean?

The car seems to be running well, maybe better than before. Drove it around the block and acceleration may be improved.

I suppose a compression test may be in order.

Oil from the top of the head will seep on the plugs. The gaskets are getting old and stiff. It's nothing to be alarmed about. The fix is to change the valve cover gasket that comes with new seals for the plugs.

Glad you saw some performance improvement with spark plugs.

O2 sensors will improve performance and fuel efficacy. There IS a payout to replace these and the MAP sensor on 100K intervals. As mentioned, as the O2 sensors gets older, it reports to the ECU the engine is running LEAN. The ECU adds more fuel to the injectors and the engine runs RICH. This wastes fuel and in extreme cases, wears out the engine quicker.

At 100K I cleaned my injectors on my Honda. I own an injector test/cleaning machine. It won't clean direct port injectors. The entire process was less than an hour.

The 2.5l injector fuel rail is easy enough to remove. It looks like a special tool is required to replace the O rings on the injectors. If I send the injectors out to be tested and cleaned, I might get the company to install new Teflon o rings for $40.00 to avoid buying the tools.

My Honda performance and gas mileage picked up after cleaning the injectors. I'll clean the Mazda injectors at the 75K or 100K mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BR6yfxXCxc

https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-inj...ning/direct-injection-fuel-injector-cleaning/

Like the trans, Mazda doesn't have a recommended mileage to change the fuel filter. One can wait until the filter plugs and causes the fuel pump to fail or change it. I don't like to be on the side of the interstate after dark waiting for a tow truck. My wife and I might be on a trip and would have to spend the night and be at the mercy of a dealership or shop to change out the filter/pump IF they have one on the shelf.

I change fuel filters on gas burners every 100K. On my diesel between 15 and 20K. I'll change the fuel filter on the Mazda at 75K and change out the trans fluid/filter as well.

The procedure is not difficult. No special tools. I'll allow a couple of hours the first time. If you have never opened up a fuel system, take your time. I blow off and wipe down the top of the fuel tank before opening it up. Keep everything clean around the fuel tanks and where you work on the fuel hat. I like how easy Mazda made it to get the fuel pump basket out. Some cars have a large friction ring. I don't own the special tool and use a chisel and hammer to remove it. I never felt comfortable beating on the top of the gas tank like this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICUiqXrPsh0

Thanks for posting about the oil on the plugs. When I change my plugs, I'll have a valve cover gasket kit on hand. If the plugs have oil on the threads I'll do a valve cover gasket service.