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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
300 could be many other issues as well....the code is stored for around 80 miles
Canadian EGR valve exposed
- Thread starter TheMAN
- Start date
FusilliJerry82
Member
Question: I'm looking at the installation diagrams; am I correct in interpreting that the vacuum hose simply terminates to the atmosphere near the fuse box and doesn't actually hook into any engine vacuum ports/hoses?
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
correct
FusilliJerry82
Member
Cleared the CEL, installed the 1.8/2.0 EGR in my 2000 1.6 sans hooking up the coolant lines and now she idles like a dream, no CEL. I'm going to drive it as-is for about a week to make sure its working well enough before I hook in the coolant lines but so far, so good. Looks like you can use the FS EGR in your ZM.
FusilliJerry82
Member
250 Miles and still OK.
FusilliJerry82
Member
Update: The check engine light came on and stayed on at about 800 miles oddly enough. There's probably some minor difference in the EGR flow of the 1.6 and 1.8 that takes forever for the ECM to pin down.
No dice. I'll have to track down one for a ZM, which is extremely elusive.
No dice. I'll have to track down one for a ZM, which is extremely elusive.
Hey guys,
My wife has an 02 protege5 with about 120k on it. I replaced the egr about 2.5 years ago when it threw the egr code with what I now realize was an original design egr.
she started getting cylinder 1 misfires a few months ago. replaced coil, wires, plugs but no help.
a few weeks ago i followed the egr cleaning procedure but now it seems worse (haha).
I plan to start commuting with her car, getting her a new one and letting my pontiac g8 sit in the garage for another year or so before we can move closer to my new job.
should i bother with the canadian egr? im just going to be beating her into the ground and need it to last another year or 2? will the 03 shielded egr from rock auto fit my 02? their website does not list an egr for the 02.
thanks. much appreciated by a fellow grease monkey. (headbang)
My wife has an 02 protege5 with about 120k on it. I replaced the egr about 2.5 years ago when it threw the egr code with what I now realize was an original design egr.
she started getting cylinder 1 misfires a few months ago. replaced coil, wires, plugs but no help.
a few weeks ago i followed the egr cleaning procedure but now it seems worse (haha).
I plan to start commuting with her car, getting her a new one and letting my pontiac g8 sit in the garage for another year or so before we can move closer to my new job.
should i bother with the canadian egr? im just going to be beating her into the ground and need it to last another year or 2? will the 03 shielded egr from rock auto fit my 02? their website does not list an egr for the 02.
thanks. much appreciated by a fellow grease monkey. (headbang)
I don't believe that P0301 is related to EGR valve failure. I know you said that coil was replaced, and wires, etc. However, i would check / replace the wire/boot for Cyl 1, and check the spark plug. BTW, did you replace the right coil ? It also could be Fuel Injector failure. Use some FI cleaner.
If you want to replace EGR and keep your car for a year or two, then go with US version, because it is easier to install.
If you want to replace EGR and keep your car for a year or two, then go with US version, because it is easier to install.
replaced only the 1 coil (left) not the right. but that included the boot. the plugs are also new.
took the fuel injectors out twice. they look good. and i swapped the 1 and 2 injectors and am still getting a cylinder 1 misfire so i dont believe its the injector.
it does also have a small oil leak, but i believe thats from the oil pan, but am not naive enough to think it may not be leaking somewhere else that is also causing the misfire.
Well, correct me if i'm wrong, but it's the Right Coil that is connected to Cyl 1 Spark Plug.
Replace your Right Coil also, and replace the Wire/Boot which is going from Right Coil to Cyl 1 (longest wire going from Right Coil to First Cyl on far Left).
That should take care of your cylinder 1 misfires.
Replace your Right Coil also, and replace the Wire/Boot which is going from Right Coil to Cyl 1 (longest wire going from Right Coil to First Cyl on far Left).
That should take care of your cylinder 1 misfires.
that doesn't make sense, although you could be right. if the cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 and 1 is on the passengers side, the coil sits on the cylinder 1. We may just be confusing each other. When i said "left side" i meant while looking at the engine facing the windshield. Which is why I should apologize and remember that you should always refer to a cars sides as passenger and driver's side.
i suppose why i believe it's the egr is because it got worse when i tried to clean it, so i'm assuming i did a poor job cleaning/lubing.
The coil on drivers side does NOT sit on Cyl #1. It sits on Cyl #4, however it is also connected to Cyl #1 by the longest wire.
If you replaced the Passengers side coil with one short wire, then it is not going to solve your problem with Cyl #1 misfire. It will, however, make a difference for Cyl #2 & Cyl #3 because Passengers side Coil sits on Cyl #2 and it's connected to Cyl #3.
Cyl 1&4 fire at the same time ignited by Drivers side Coil (new term ? DSC ?LOL), and Cyl 2&3 fire at the same time from PSC
Stop screwing with your EGR and get a new one if you plan on keeping your car for two more years.
If you replaced the Passengers side coil with one short wire, then it is not going to solve your problem with Cyl #1 misfire. It will, however, make a difference for Cyl #2 & Cyl #3 because Passengers side Coil sits on Cyl #2 and it's connected to Cyl #3.
Cyl 1&4 fire at the same time ignited by Drivers side Coil (new term ? DSC ?LOL), and Cyl 2&3 fire at the same time from PSC
Stop screwing with your EGR and get a new one if you plan on keeping your car for two more years.
The coil on drivers side does NOT sit on Cyl #1. It sits on Cyl #4, however it is also connected to Cyl #1 by the longest wire.
If you replaced the Passengers side coil with one short wire, then it is not going to solve your problem with Cyl #1 misfire. It will, however, make a difference for Cyl #2 & Cyl #3 because Passengers side Coil sits on Cyl #2 and it's connected to Cyl #3.
Cyl 1&4 fire at the same time ignited by Drivers side Coil (new term ? DSC ?LOL), and Cyl 2&3 fire at the same time from PSC
Stop screwing with your EGR and get a new one if you plan on keeping your car for two more years.
maybe i'll try that. just find it weird that it got worse when i cleaned the egr...
How do you do your diagnostic? Do you have a Code reader? Why do you think Cyl #1 misfires ? Is your CEL On ? What code do you get ? Can you describe the problem in more details ?
no code reader, just go to autozone and thats the code they give me. no cel this time yet, but if past history repeats itself it'll show up soon. when i stop at a light it shakes and chugs and the revs bounce violently.
it seems to only happen once i disconnect the battery and reset the pcm. (like when i cleaned the egr valve). the first few times it actually stalls. then the cel comes on at some point and the stuttering at the stop light is there, but not as bad.
i read this thread and want to check it. not sure if it's the same motor? due to the pcm issue...
http://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-tribute-22/misfire-cyl-1-solved-27215/
it seems to only happen once i disconnect the battery and reset the pcm. (like when i cleaned the egr valve). the first few times it actually stalls. then the cel comes on at some point and the stuttering at the stop light is there, but not as bad.
i read this thread and want to check it. not sure if it's the same motor? due to the pcm issue...
http://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-tribute-22/misfire-cyl-1-solved-27215/
Well, another thing I would check & clean - the Throttle Body. It takes only a few minutes, and does not cost much ($5 or so for a can of Throttle Body Cleaner).
I had Mazda 626, and Protege and both at some point needed TB cleaning. That solved the "Red Light Shaking syndrome". If there is a carbon build-up, then Butterfly Valve does not close completely when you stop at the red light.
I had Mazda 626, and Protege and both at some point needed TB cleaning. That solved the "Red Light Shaking syndrome". If there is a carbon build-up, then Butterfly Valve does not close completely when you stop at the red light.
had the codes read again after the wires/caps replaced and i got p0171 (lean air/fuel) and p0455 (large evap leak). and i believe it was a result of a ripped intake tube because i replaced it with an ebay intake and it runs much better (not perfect) but better and no codes. I also cleaned the maf, throttle body and seafoamed it.
