About to pull the trigger on a 2002 P5 Sport Wagon: What's the rundown of these cars?

gilella said:
Most car enthusiasts don't like PT Cruisers. Proteges handle incredibly well and their steering is wonderfully engaging. PT Cruisers are not like that. However, you do seem to care about reliability. PT Cruisers are not reliable. A reliable, but not at all fun version of a P5 is a Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix.

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chrysler/PT_Cruiser/2006/
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Thanks.

I had a feeling PT Cruisers werent that reliable, afterall its a Chrysler! lol.

That's one thing I noticed in my short test drive of that girls P5, it was awfully fun to drive! The handling was really really good. For a wagon and an old fart of a car, I havent driven many cars that were as fun as her P5.

I should mention that the girls P5, the left clip of the rear bumper wont hold the end of the bumper cause id imagine the bolt/holder is rusted to hell lol.

I think I need to have her car up on a hoist to see the entire under body and see just how rusted the under body and strut towers are. But then Id have to pay $75 for my mech to inspect it and he's kinda far from her home lol.

Now if the strut towers and underbody isnt rusted at all then I would have no problem paying her the $1000 but if theyre too rusted then I would have to pass on the car. And Im sure if I drag her to my mech shop on her day off, take up 2 hours of her time (which includes driving there and back), then I decide "oh its too rusted and I pass on it" she wouldnt be very happy lol. I dont want to be pissing off sellers so if I can avoid it I will.

Thats why Im debating if this specific car is worth paying to get inspected, seeing how much rust is already on the wheel wells.

Chances are (just my opinion), if the wheel wheels are that rusted as in the pics, very likely the underbody, rockers, floor and strut towers have already started to rust (if not, already have just as much rust as around the wheel wells).

Im not sure if id feel safe buying a car with rusted on the strut towers. Cause its just the matter of time before that rust eats up that entire tower and makes it come off and you're stuck with a car with only being able to hold 3 wheels lol.

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Test drive one of the msps listed and you would be a convert for sure lol. But reliability... Lol
 
Valk said:
Test drive one of the msps listed and you would be a convert for sure lol. But reliability... Lol
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Whats MSPS? Mazda Speed Protege Sedan?

If so, isnt the sedan version essentially the same guts in terms of engine, tranny but just sedan size and not hatch?

I feel I need to at least check out the red Sedan from the other seller first before getting back in touch with the girl of the yellow P5 in those pics. The red has a lot less rust (at least from what I see in the wheel wells), probably 80% less rust if not more and her asking price is also alot cheaper. I can live with a Sedan if it means I dont have to worry over the next few years about my strut towers or what not rusting lol.

But one thing that I did want in my 2nd car was being able to lug more stuff and bigger items around. Well, sometimes you just cant have everything you want can you.
 
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Speedprotege has a turbocharger and a few other differences. If you l don't care much about cars and you don't want to put effort into caring for your car, don't buy an Mazdaspeed Protege.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
None of the ones you posted were Mazdaspeed Proteges. This is a mazdaspeed protege (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...an/1140144024?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true). Note that it says MAZDASPEED in the title. It's a different name, that's how you'll know. It isn't an LX or DX thing. If you get the MAZDASPEED Protege (known as the MSP) you need to take care of it. It is a rare care, please don't neglect it. The MSP needs to be idled for 30 seconds every time you drive it to make sure the turbo cools down. You need to change the oil consistently. If you drive it too hard or modify the boost setting, you can break the engine/trans easily. Replacing the turbo is $700-$1k. If you are young, insurance might be costly.

Now that I've said all that, you should know that I don't have an MSP. I am not talking from personal experience. I have a P5 that I plan to turbo this summer. I know my way around cars and plan to care for the car. If you go for an MSP, the people here are really helpful and the community is great. Same applies to the p5
 
gilella said:
None of the ones you posted were Mazdaspeed Proteges. This is a mazdaspeed protege (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...an/1140144024?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true). Note that it says MAZDASPEED in the title. It's a different name, that's how you'll know. It isn't an LX or DX thing. If you get the MAZDASPEED Protege (known as the MSP) you need to take care of it. It is a rare care, please don't neglect it. The MSP needs to be idled for 30 seconds every time you drive it to make sure the turbo cools down. You need to change the oil consistently. If you drive it too hard or modify the boost setting, you can break the engine/trans easily. Replacing the turbo is $700-$1k. If you are young, insurance might be costly.

Now that I've said all that, you should know that I don't have an MSP. I am not talking from personal experience. I have a P5 that I plan to turbo this summer. I know my way around cars and plan to care for the car. If you go for an MSP, the people here are really helpful and the community is great. Same applies to the p5
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Ok thanks. Yes I wont bother with the MSP simply cause the cost and insurance would be up there. I just need a beater haha.

That car sure is nice though! But im not willing to spend $4500 on a beater.
 
Yes, if you are looking for a beater just turn around and run from that MSP and don't look back. They are great cars when maintained but have their quirks and require a certain amount of attention, def. not beater status. For that stick to the DX, LX or ES when shopping for the sedan or the P5 for the hatch. My biased opinion is that the hatch is better. ;)

As mentioned earlier the Vibe and Matrix are both similar to the P5 and get pretty good reviews online from owners and seem to be very reliable. If you haven't already, include them in your search. Hope that you get lucky and can find a decent P5 that isn't rusted out too badly to enjoy as your "beater".
 
CTt3P5 said:
Yes, if you are looking for a beater just turn around and run from that MSP and don't look back. They are great cars when maintained but have their quirks and require a certain amount of attention, def. not beater status. For that stick to the DX, LX or ES when shopping for the sedan or the P5 for the hatch. My biased opinion is that the hatch is better. ;)

As mentioned earlier the Vibe and Matrix are both similar to the P5 and get pretty good reviews online from owners and seem to be very reliable. If you haven't already, include them in your search. Hope that you get lucky and can find a decent P5 that isn't rusted out too badly to enjoy as your "beater".
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Im running far and fast from that MSP trust me.

I agree the hatch is better but it I need to see this other sellers red sedan first (if its got as little rust as she says in her ad) and I can knock down the $800 advertised price, ill go with hers since the girl with the rusted yellow P5 wont go less than $1000 lol.

I really dont wanna go through all the hassle of driving her rusted P5 to my mech, pay to get it inspected, only to find out its too rusted and then make her upset for wasting her time on her day off as well as mine, then go buy the red sedan lol.

I know $75 is fairly low for an inspection (and my mech is a very good mech who I trust). So if i have a feeling that rusted yellow P5 is rusted to hell in the strut towers and under body, then ill save myself the hassle of getting it inspected.
 
Well I wish you luck and that the red sedan checks out in person.

Personally I wouldn't waste my time or the $75 on that yellow one. Politely tell her you have changed your mind and move on. Yes, $75 is low but that is $75 you can pay to have the red one inspected or another example with less rust.
 
CTt3P5 said:
Well I wish you luck and that the red sedan checks out in person.

Personally I wouldn't waste my time or the $75 on that yellow one. Politely tell her you have changed your mind and move on. Yes, $75 is low but that is $75 you can pay to have the red one inspected or another example with less rust.
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Good point. Going by the pics on that yellow P5 with low milage, seeing how much rust is around the wheel wells, chances are the strut towers already have rust and perhaps the floor as well.

My biggest concern is how are her rear struts already needing replacement? My guess is that theyre rusted. When its always the fronts that need replacing first since they take 60-70% of the road blunt.

Since her bumper is already starting to come apart, it tells me its rusted there as well.
 
Though I much prefer a wagon for the extra cargo space alone, this red one might be the real deal. If I really want a wagon, I might have to look into something like a 2002 Ford Taurus SE but I cringe at the though of buying an american car (no offense lol). A Subaru outback I would consider but theyre also more money.

I did also consider an SUV like a Chevy Trailerblazer but again, its american lol.

Going by the pics, I see very little rust and a lot less compared to the yellow P5.

If it has this minimal rust on the wheel wells, chances are the rust under and on the strut towers is neglgible.

Mind you, this is a 1999, so its 3 years older and has 232k km on it vs 171 on the other one.

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I can't see the pics here at work but will check them out later.

Regarding the rust, not necessarily. Rust starts from the inside and works its way out. So by the time you see the bubbling paint it has already taken hold behind the scenes. It's just a matter of how much. Have your mechanic inspect it and put it on a lift and check out the rear wheel areas with some good lighting. I'd suggest going further and removing the rear wheels so you can loosen and pull back the fender liners to get a better look. Also check the lower portions of the doors and the strut towers in the engine bay. These were also problem areas for the P5. Pull the trunk liner and spare tire out as well and pull the stock jack out and check the area where it is stored (unless the sedan stores it within the spare tire well).
 
CTt3P5 said:
I can't see the pics here at work but will check them out later.

Regarding the rust, not necessarily. Rust starts from the inside and works its way out. So by the time you see the bubbling paint it has already taken hold behind the scenes. It's just a matter of how much. Have your mechanic inspect it and put it on a lift and check out the rear wheel areas with some good lighting. I'd suggest going further and removing the rear wheels so you can loosen and pull back the fender liners to get a better look. Also check the lower portions of the doors and the strut towers in the engine bay. These were also problem areas for the P5. Pull the trunk liner and spare tire out as well and pull the stock jack out and check the area where it is stored (unless the sedan stores it within the spare tire well).
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Ok thanks. Interesting, didnt know that. I always thought rust starts with the wheel wells first.

My guess is that the girls yellow P5 has a ton of rust on the underbody, strut mounts, floor and trunk carriage if she already has that much on her rear wheel wells.
 
Shameless self promotion here lol...for the price you are looking to spend, you could buy a plane ticket into Pittsburgh PA, buy my car, put $100 into calipers and rotors/pads, then drive back to Calgary, with spare wheels to boot ;) And no real rust issues to deal with...
 
Ok im taking a look at the red sedan tomorrow and this one as well

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...ed/1158016331?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Dont let the milage fool you, it was well maintained and alot of work has been done to it. I could tell from talking with the owners.

The red one i could probably at least chip $50 off bringing it down to $750-800ish and the tan one im sure i could chip a couple hundred off.

Theres no doubt that the tan one has a lot more work done to it and i can tell was more well maintained. But its also higher milage.

My concern on the red one is the oil leak, depending where its coming from.

The tan one was sprayed with undercoat hence why it has minimal rust.

Im not a fan of tan colour cars but at this price beggers cant be choosers right lol.
 
Ilikebikes said:
It looks like that car has a different set of wheels on each side. Maybe its just me.
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THey look the same to me, but I couldnt get a hold of that seller anyways and its out of my budget.

I went and drove this one tonight. Am considering it, the seller needs to see if the timing belt has to done recently and will get backt to me tomorrow once he gets in touch with the guy who sold the car to him.

It drove really well for a car with 300k km on the orig engine and tranny and struts. All bushings are original as well. He would do $775cdn. Very little rust, I checked in the strut towers and no rust.

The car is small and does stink inside (which can be fixed). And I love the cargo space the hatchback offers you. This is why I want a hatch over a sedan, for the cargo space if i ever need to lug stuff around that wont fit in my car trunk now.

Not that the cargo space on an integra is massive or will compare to a P5 but it still beats out any sedan lol.

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Im still leaning towards this Protege (CLICK HERE), simply from talk with the owner tonight and knowing how well maintained it was. But it also depends on how much he is willing to go on the price of $1200obo.

Right now I have $775cdn on the 2001 Gold integra (posted above). It even comes with a free can of spray paint to paint the hood. Your definitiion of the ultimate beater car lol.
 
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