brakes

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2018 CX 5 TOURING
I've got 10,000 miles on my '18 cx 5, and the only thing that bothers me a bit is the brakes. They do the job fine, but just feel a little mushy. Any adjustments that can be made to address this?

Thanks much.
 
I've got 10,000 miles on my '18 cx 5, and the only thing that bothers me a bit is the brakes. They do the job fine, but just feel a little mushy. Any adjustments that can be made to address this?

Thanks much.

My 2015 felt a bit mushy, as in, I could touch the firewall with the brake on a hot day at a stop light. Having them flushed fixed this. I doubt yours is in that bad of shape being a '18, but? Was it bought in '17? If so, have them check water content. maybe time.
 
No adjustments. Something to just get used to. They're mushy but they work.
 
You will never really know unless you bleed them if they are as good as they should be.
 
No adjustments. Something to just get used to. They're mushy but they work.

This. I'll grant the brakes are not as what's the word...abrupt in their operation as other vehicles I have driven. But they do work.
 
This. I'll grant the brakes are not as what's the word...abrupt in their operation as other vehicles I have driven. But they do work.

Ive found them typical of Japanese brakes. The extremely low dust characteristics also make them feel like you're trying to stop the rotor from turning with 2 blocks of wood. My 370z Sport package felt the same.
 
yes they are mushy and you need to press the pedal hard


I almost scared the salesman when testing mine because my previous car brakes hit immediately while on my first test I noticed the cx5 brakes were totally the opposite.

Over time you will get used to it.

What I cannot get used to is the squeaky at low speeds. Every time I use the electronic brake it happens for a while after
.at low speeds or when in a drive through.
 
Also 10k miles on my 2018 , yep they are mushy.

My 2016 cx-5 had a better breaking grip imho.
 
Install steel braided lines in place of stock rubber, and give them a good bleeding. That should make a noticeable difference.
 
There is a simple test to check if there is air in the hydraulic system. With the engine NOT running, pump the pedal until you reach the end of the stroke repeatedly and by about 8-10 pumps it should have exhausted all of the vacuum in the servo. Now you can judge properly what you have got. Apart from the 1/4 inch or so in the Clovis at the top, the pedal should be virtually rock hard and if you hold the pressure on, it should not creep down gradually. If it does that, there is no air in the system and you are not going to make any improvement by attempting to bleed them. In fact, unless you are competent with the process, you are more likely to let air in.

Now to judge just how much effort the servo and the ABS pump gives, with your foot hard on the pedal, start the engine and your foot will go right down and may even bottom out on the carpet. There is nothing wrong and the system is behaving as designed. The emergency brake assist relies on some travel to help detect when it needs to intervene and in any case, most people prefer a light brake pedal v heavy braking. Not your enthusiastic drivers but the every day ones.
 
Install steel braided lines in place of stock rubber, and give them a good bleeding. That should make a noticeable difference.


We*re not on a race track, regular brake pipes will easily withstand 100 bar (about 1500 psi) with minimal deformation. You can bend the calipers open at those pressures, adding to the give in the pedal. It really isn*t necessary on a modern car to modify the system. Mazda have added a large diameter servo to give a soft feel and here we are trying to undo it. ;-)
 
We*re not on a race track, regular brake pipes will easily withstand 100 bar (about 1500 psi) with minimal deformation. You can bend the calipers open at those pressures, adding to the give in the pedal. It really isn*t necessary on a modern car to modify the system. Mazda have added a large diameter servo to give a soft feel and here we are trying to undo it. ;-)

steel braided lines don't really do anything from a performance standpoint. But they do improve brake pedal feel. And they should last longer given that they aren't exposed rubber, which tends to degrade over time when exposed to the elements. Even EricTheCarGuy recommends them for any vehicle as a worthy upgrade.
 
steel braided lines don't really do anything from a performance standpoint. But they do improve brake pedal feel. And they should last longer given that they aren't exposed rubber, which tends to degrade over time when exposed to the elements. Even EricTheCarGuy recommends them for any vehicle as a worthy upgrade.

I was going to call BS on them too but did some research, and yeah, they are legit. That said, I have also never ever ever had a brake line failure, even on 30+ year old cars. Never say it won't happen, but odds are I could enjoy a good meal instead. My brakes in my 2015 and 2019 felt fine, albeit, the 2015 needed a fluid change at 90K to feel that way. Not spongy, just not very grabby, but that's a quirk of ultra low-dust pads.
 
Yeah I mean I have no problem with how the brakes feel on our 2014 with 88K. However my 25 year old Integra, even after a thorough flush and bleed, still could use some improvement in brake pedal feel. Most likely new braided lines to replace the 25 year old rubber would help in that department. Just have to set aside the money and time to do it.
 
I was going to call BS on them too but did some research, and yeah, they are legit. That said, I have also never ever ever had a brake line failure, even on 30+ year old cars. Never say it won't happen, but odds are I could enjoy a good meal instead. My brakes in my 2015 and 2019 felt fine, albeit, the 2015 needed a fluid change at 90K to feel that way. Not spongy, just not very grabby, but that's a quirk of ultra low-dust pads.

As Patrick indicated, SS lines won't decrease stopping feet but will change the braking feel at the pedal. In other words greatly minimize that spongy feeling. Perhaps MAzda went with more "spoongier" brake lines.
 
Exhausting the vacuum will show if there is any flex in the brake pipes. You,ll bust a gut trying to flex them.
 
I have also never ever ever had a brake line failure, even on 30+ year old cars. Never say it won't happen, but odds are I could enjoy a good meal instead.

I had a brake line failure in an old Ford once, but not of a catastrophic kind. Just the opposite.
The rubber brake line at one of the front calipers actually collapsed internally. It looked fine on the outside.
Pushing the brake pedal would expand it enough to allow fluid into the caliper, but once brake pressure was removed, it collapsed again, and wouldn't allow the fluid to reverse flow.
The result was the pads were always under pressure against the rotor. I didn't notice anything at first, except for a funny feel in the pedal.
What gave it away was a very hot wheel on longer drives, and almost new brake pads worn out within weeks.
Steel lines would have been nice.
 
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