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Sorry to revive this ancient thread, but can someone point me to the hose and solenoid that could be to blame for this? Gonna buy the parts as soon as I know so I can just get it taken care of. Autozone parts or Mazda parts work for this? Thanks!

Nvm. Figured it out!

Could I get that thread linked here?

Awesome. This is gonna be a piece of cake!

Thanks a ton man! I take it I will need to drain the oil before doing this?

Yeah yours was one of the threads I was reading. I was looking at the line though and it looks like the silicone wrapper that surrounds the return hose is kind of falling apart. It might make sense for me to just replace the whole thing. I am taking it to my friend's shop tomorrow and I will...

That is the shorter one, correct?

I am experiencing a problem that I know is common, but I am still not certain what the problem is. When I drive, under boost I notice a burning oil smell, and then when the car is off after a drive, you can still smell it. After checking under the car, there is oil that coats the oil pan, the...

Good to know. I have to work under the hood a little more when I get back to my car, so I might just throw it back on, but thank you!

So I recently did this again with my Forge WGA, and didn't put the heat shield back on. Is there any reason why the lack of a heat shield around the WGA would cause any problems? It seems like the heat shield there wouldn't really do much anyways...?

Before you buy new bushings try just lubing them up. Even bushings that are still good can squeak if they're too dry (especially the polyurethane ones so I've found...)

I think I am just gonna do some trial and error stuff until it works haha. getting an oil leak fixed up on the 26th, lubing my swaybar bushings again, and gonna do a couple of turns on that WGA until my trial and error method of tuning it work out for me to get about 6-8 lbs. :P Wish me luck!

This helped thanks! I am gonna do 2-3 more turns to see if that will tighten it enough. 12psi was too much but 0 is def not enough haha

Which way did you adjust it? I don't think that it would do anything, but I am curious as well now. My old vacuum was around 21 and now I'm running at -18 after over-lengthening the arm. I am also boosting 0psi until I can get back in there and readjust the arm to the stock length. Hopefully...

I would do this if I had one to match haha According to Forge, if you shorten the rod, you are increasing the preload of the spring, and increasing boost. If you make the arm longer, you are reducing the preload, and decreasing the boost. Why are so many people with the Forge getting weird...

Man... that's gonna be another afternoon gone -___- Haha I will do it. Now that I know how to do it easily.

Yep! Figured that out haha. But, now I lowered the boost too much and am at 0psi under WOT. Do you think throwing a MBC on would help this issue?

Ok so I did the work on the car, and StealthWyvern I did manage to do it without taking the WGA off of the car at all, just unscrewed the 2 nuts that held it to the heatshield, pulled, and spun it around until I thought it was long enough. However, now I have UNDERBOOSTING problems haha! I...

So to set this like this should i pull the turbo and manifold out to finish the work or do you think I could leave it in the car? I coulda sworn that I had it at about that amount. You're running the Forge? Does anyone else have overboosting problems with it?

Haha I got it off and now what :P