Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
it looks like a good design. I'm surprised its spiking that much, but MBCs do have inherent spikes. Try lowering the boost just a tad and see if it smooths out.
HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.
- Thread starter Alejo_NIN
- Start date
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Does anyone know the length of the actuator arm on this thing? I am trying to adjust my Forge WGA because I am overboosting and the actuator arm I think just needs to be adjusted.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
Id set it to where its just tight enough to hold the flap against the exhaust housing wthout any play or rattling.. worse case is you get a manual boost controller and raise the boost that away.Haha I got it off and now what
I set mine like this about half the hole
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I set mine to match the stocker, which I believe was basically bottomed out on the short end.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
So to set this like this should i pull the turbo and manifold out to finish the work or do you think I could leave it in the car? I coulda sworn that I had it at about that amount. You're running the Forge? Does anyone else have overboosting problems with it?
Id set it to where its just tight enough to hold the flap against the exhaust housing wthout any play or rattling.. worse case is you get a manual boost controller and raise the boost that away.
I set mine like this about half the hole
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
i had horrible boost spikes issues with forge for the 1st day or two and then it litterally worked itself out... spiked to 8-9 settled right aroudn 5-6... then i went 3" dp with 3" catless midpipe.. now i have over boost issues but i dont think thats due to the forge... YOu should be able to adjust it like that with it in the car but that can be a pitfa i bet.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I have been having overboosting problems with my Forge. Never has held steady boost levels.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I never had a problem with mine.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I really wish there were more than 2 WGAs for the MSP.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
What, you don't count the stock one for $350? LOL
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Ok so I did the work on the car, and StealthWyvern I did manage to do it without taking the WGA off of the car at all, just unscrewed the 2 nuts that held it to the heatshield, pulled, and spun it around until I thought it was long enough. However, now I have UNDERBOOSTING problems haha! I read that each turn was 1psi, so I turned it 5 times to reduce it from 12psi to around 7 or so. Pretty sure that bit of info I got was wrong, so now I am boosting 0psi under WOT at over 4k RPMs. It wasn't too hard to do the work, but I sure as hell don't want to do it again haha! Think a MBC will fix it? Just throw it in and crank it up so it holds 6 or 7 psi? Any ideas?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Fix it properly... adjust the WGA. That is what its for. If you bandaid it with a MBC, you'll end up with a very ugly boost spike.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Man... that's gonna be another afternoon gone -___-
Haha I will do it. Now that I know how to do it easily.
i don't believe adjusting the arm will increase or decrease boost.
the actuator is made for 8 psi and the length of the arm won't cause this to change unless:
1. the arm is so long that the WGA won't remain close thus not building any pressure.
2. the arm is so short that even when boost is reached at 8psi, the arm is unable to fully open the gate thus having weird boosting numbers as you descrived.
in other words, the WGA is not designed to change boost unless different springs are used as is the case of the FORGE
the best way to do it is to remove it completely and match it up to the old one.
the actuator is made for 8 psi and the length of the arm won't cause this to change unless:
1. the arm is so long that the WGA won't remain close thus not building any pressure.
2. the arm is so short that even when boost is reached at 8psi, the arm is unable to fully open the gate thus having weird boosting numbers as you descrived.
in other words, the WGA is not designed to change boost unless different springs are used as is the case of the FORGE
the best way to do it is to remove it completely and match it up to the old one.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
I would do this if I had one to match haha
According to Forge, if you shorten the rod, you are increasing the preload of the spring, and increasing boost. If you make the arm longer, you are reducing the preload, and decreasing the boost. Why are so many people with the Forge getting weird numbers though? I read through this thread and a few people were mentioning weird boost readings. Is everyone installing just making the same mistake that I did and shortening the rod too much?
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Which way did you adjust it? I don't think that it would do anything, but I am curious as well now. My old vacuum was around 21 and now I'm running at -18 after over-lengthening the arm. I am also boosting 0psi until I can get back in there and readjust the arm to the stock length. Hopefully tomorrow I will.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Because it is adjustable, and being adjusted improperly. And you are precisely right about preload. Springs are rated at lbs/length. Add preload, and you've effectively increased the length, and thus the pounds needed to compress it.
Shouldn't. The only thing that should change vacuum about a WGA is if the diaphragm is punctured.
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