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I get a vibration only when idle and when I get on it hard it will stay idle at 60 or however fast I am going only for a lil while. I also noticed that the groves were slightly rusted and the teeth were a lil bent some of them therefor edge of belt a lil rip but not enough to whine 24/7. Watched...

found a hoes thats burned up by it leaning on right side of the block/valve cover it is conected on top of a housing i think it is. right after the temp sensor and leads to another that is shared with a bigger one. there is coolent in this line now i looked at manual and could not find a layout...

idles normal 800 then dips to low rpms it has shut off 2x before on me my boost meter reads vac at 23 the hks bov works fine the a/f ratio reads blank only when im still. idk if this helps there is a full properly installed turbo system pipe,FMIC, etc.. i see or hear no vac leaks. i do have a...

recently had to replace turbo gasket when i did i had a gap from the t3 and steed manifold in other words exhuast leak. replaced that and last week did a tune up except 1 new coil pack swaped 1 for a spare oem coil that had 60k on it. cold start in the am takes about 2 sec start cranks fine...

i was trying to take the manifold off but the front bottom right (facing her) 17mm nut is in the way with the braied oil feed line gasket shape fitting thingy. so while it was in the air looks like i would have to take off exhaust part&gasket from my tiny t3 that kicks ass and mid pipe so i can...

i have a lazer msp gold rims from raze i have been trying to get in car shows so i have painted my pipes gold one of them the hot one from the t3 doing my cold one next. is that to much? going overboard? figure no one has colored there downpipes or i havent seen any. what have you guys done...

so my steedspeed t3/t4 manifold has been welded a few times needed a new manifold came across this http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/4129715101.html the OBX website with that same part # is $600 with a 321 stainless. he said he got for 200 selling for 75 to good to be true. anyone herd of this obx...

I recently cleaned out my egr, MAF sensor and throttle body front and back hardly anything carbon build up. a/f ratios reading like 17.2 and cuts off reading (---) on and off when not in gear it used to read 14-5 - 15-5 used to hesitate also not as much anymore but i fell theres still a slight...

the rears left tire rubs when making turns only uphill right turn's going left no rub no matter what level. Now it is lowered 1/2 inch im almost sure not to much sits perfectly slighty more then an inch above tires. front suspension are some limted special edtion mazdaspeed struts previous owner...

I have installed my rear msp rotors and pads before but i'm still new to fixing a car and wanting to learn. I decided to take it up a notch and rebuild my front calipers (mazda6 BBK) since i will be putting new rotors and pads on while i'm at it.I also do have a spiral piston brake kit so it is...

When the cars not in gear it shakes a lil bit not crazy but enough to hear my coins on the side door. now i recently replaced neutral safety switch, FL ABS sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. i go to delete codes and the abs one comes back on im assuming i didnt leave enough clearance between...

ok got a new one from the dealer when i put it on 1st time i installed it without a washer didnt know just wanted to do it quick (lazy) gear got stuck so i go back put the old washer on with new switch worked. 5min later im driving engine light comes on ran it on a scanner at work same code. not...

Currently have a msp 03 always liked The ms3 but specs are very close between The ms6 that ad N/A a lil more power and 1.2 litters more idk what one to get plans are heavy mods so dont know what one can produce more power.

I get a lil nosie when i shift gears i know its my bushing for sure ive never replaced this before shift link as well im pretty sure its easy just dont wanna mess it up.

New timing,drive, and sterring belt starting to squell sometimes mostly at night and early morning. Sprayed sway bushing with wd40 squeaks alot less still there and a clunk back seat area. Can it be trailing arms and sway bushing and a crank pulley? I looked hard all over fourm cant find my answer

I was told to take off rear sway bars red racing beat if im correct. What and where do i spary it with. I notice that lil round rubber thing with The end links can i grease that or is this one od those cars where only The front needs em

Hit a somewhat deep bumb other day. Tire size 215/45zr17 rims 17x7 all season i was losing psi then i took The tire off sparyed it down no leaks rims arent bent tightened valve core. still losing psi 5 to 8 pounds every 12 hours less then 60 degress outside i dont understand

I wanted to paint my cup holders and and other grey parts like around The cd player but dont know whats The proper way and paint for want in Blue to match or maybe yellow and black to match passenger seat and shift boot

all i did was down shift coming to a light was on 2nd at about 2500 3k then i had clutch held down rev a lil bit and it then back fired i have been told this is bad but i love that sht i dont have much done power wise speed manifold/headers full exhaust system cat back and all upgraded turbo...

Body Shop guys said 400 to make it look new again mine as well Buy another CF hood for 400. Ive been told wet sand 600 paper and where can i pick up a gel coat