Recent content by phantom6294

The gear ratios are available on Mazda's website... :huh: Here are the ratios ('07-09 / '10) 1st: 3.538 / 3.21 2nd: 2.238 / 1.91 3rd: 1.535 / 1.37 4th: 1.171 / 1.03 5th: 1.085 / .95 6th: 0.853 / 0.79 Final (1st-4th): 3.941 / 4.19 Final (5th-6th): 3.350 / 3.46 Don't forget, they also changed...

Errr.... robin2660, no. The wastegate (the actual wastegate) is closed (by closed meaning all exhaust flows through the turbine) until one of two conditions occur 1) enough boost pressure is applied to the wastegate actuator (WGA) to overcome the pressure of the spring tension in the WGA or 2)...

I went to the one in White Marsh. I should go back, but I've just been lazy lately.

http://www.dltinting.com/ I am torn regarding D&L. I got mine done about a week after getting my MS3 and while I don't have huge complaints about the quality, I am not 100% happy either. Admittedly, I am quite picky, maybe even anal, when it comes to quality, so I may be expecting too much...

Most forums don't search on words 3 letters or less. Try doing a search for AWR (makes mounts) or ETS (makes a TMIC), or CPE (make numerous parts) or even K04 (our turbo code). You won't find any results. Surely, someone, somewhere, on this forum has used one of those three acronyms.

I just use one of those cell phone sticky pads on my steering wheel column. I've never had any problems with my DH moving around.

You know mentioning that reminded me of that setting regarding a problem I had after first getting my DH. After reading your post I went poking around the DH software and could not find that setting and that both you and I must be crazy... ...then I remembered it is a setting that can only be...

Count yourself lucky. I am running Vista SP1 64-bit which I realize has issues with the drivers not being signed... but even disabling the signing requirement during boot (F8, disable driver signing) the install goes fine. Try to load the software... and it immediately crashes. I have UAC...

My LTFT blinks at times as well... I haven't nailed down when it does, but its around +/- 5% and it starts blinking. Annoying indeed.

Boost PSI reads just that... the Boost level. So, when the car is in vacuum, it will just read zero. Boost/Vacuum will read the amount of boost in PSIg when pressure exceeds atmospheric (or 0 PSIg) and read inHg of vacuum when pressure is below atmospheric. I think most people view/log...

If that were the case, it would seem logical once knock retard drops below 5, that spark advance would return to a pre-knock retard level. In my log, it doesn't. Are you implying, by chance, that it takes an initial KR jump over ~5-6 for spark advance to initially be affected, and from there...

At the risk of being Mr. Literal again... I would disagree a boost leak would cause knock. A boost leak should, in theory, cause the engine to run rich, which generally helps prevent knock. A leak pre-turbo while under boost would lead to potential lean conditions, but I don't see how leaking...

Nope... because pre-detonation is another poor term -- pre-ignition is the correct term, which a knock sensor generally cannot detect. The knock sensor is looking for that 'pinging' of the cylinder block caused by the sudden spike in clyinder pressure when detonation occurs. Pre-ignition happens...

Yes, it is the correct output to be monitoring. KR is not a measurement of knock, but, as you somewhat put it, the car's response to knock. It is a value, measured in degrees, of how much the spark timing is being retard. So, in the OP's first log, a KR value of 7.5 indicates the the spark...

Seriously, did you even bother to read my post? The problem is people, like you, who misuse terminology confusing everyone else. KR = Knock Retard --> A value by which the ECU has retarded the timing in response to a detection of knock. Knock = Detonation --> "The spontaneous combustion of...