Recent content by igidy

Turns out both of the brand new ignition coils I put on were bad/faulty. I purchased some Duralast coils at Autozone and it ran okay for a bit. I had to bring the car in to a dealership for them to diagnose the car with a bad coil. It was the 1/4 coil. They replaced it and afterwards every...

I had a brand new ignition coil turn out to be bad. Ever since I replaced it, every time I would let off the gas pedal my revs would drop to like 300 - 400 rpm. I was running like this for awhile and blowing my A/C fuse. I went ahead and replaced the other ignition coil and sure enough my rev...

2002 Protege 5 The A/C fuse in my fuse box keeps blowing. Sometimes it will allow the A/C to work for 30 minutes and sometimes for only 30 seconds. This will happen regardless of what setting my blower switch is on. My switch has the issue of cutting on and off only when it is set at Level...

I do have that flickering problem on position 2 but it's intermittent. My A/C light will come on and the A/C will not engage. I will check the clutch by jumping it to the + side of the battery. I will check all of the stuff you mentioned and let you know what's up. Thanks for the input so far!

2002 Protege5 So my A/C system has worked fine ever since I've had the car (about two years) until the other day when I kicked on my A/C and no cold air came out. When I stopped the car I popped the hood and noticed that the A/C compressor was not engaged. My A/C fans were on and reacted to...

So, here's something weird. I decided to have a look at my O2 sensor (upstream). I have already replaced my downstream sensor when it malfunctioned due to damage. I unplugged the upstream sensor and ran the car. It still did the misfiring thing and threw a code, but only after quite a while...

So you don't think it would necessarily have any effect on the issue i'm dealing with? I have a new egr. Im guessing it just assists in the applied vacuum on the egr?

Know how to check the EGR boost solenoid? The FSM is vague and it only tells how to check it from the PCM. Is there another way?

With the new battery the problem persists.... I'll check my negative cable. I followed the negative wire and noticed that it goes into the main harness...? What do you do with it beyond that?

Ok, so I guess this is somewhat normal...? That current is just noise. I threw my ammeter on my other car (Nissan 240SX) and sure enough I had around 1-1.5 A (AC) at idle, and this car runs perfect. I guess I'm on to other diagnosis. My next point of venture will be the TPS and MAP...

Thanks for checking... that's exactly what mine does. Alright, so I replaced my fried battery and the alternator that was passed at my local auto parts store. The problem still persists. I decided to check my current output from my alternator and found that at idle it is putting out around 12...

I have recently performed some tests on my alternator (which I suspect to be faulty). I took it in to a couple of local auto parts stores and it tested good at both places (showed N/A for diode check). I decided to check the current output from the amp and here is what I found. At idle, with...

Hrmmm... still doing it. Heh. never ending. I reinstalled everything and cleaned the IACV and it still misfired after warming up. Funny thing... when I tried starting the car the engine wouldn't fire up. I had to put my battery charger/car starter on it in order for it to have enough juice...

yeah, I agree that it was probably on the rod. Once I get my new solenoid in I'll seafoam it again to hopefully get more of that gunk off.

Ok, so I pulled the actuator off (e-clip and all) and found out that the spring is within the actuator diaphragm housing. By itself it definitely has spring tension that moves the rod back to its default position. I sprayed some lubricant onto the bearing/seal (?) where the butterfly rod exits...