A/C Not Working

[igidy]

2002 Protege5

So my A/C system has worked fine ever since I've had the car (about two years) until the other day when I kicked on my A/C and no cold air came out. When I stopped the car I popped the hood and noticed that the A/C compressor was not engaged. My A/C fans were on and reacted to the A/C switch normally. Once I got back to the house I hooked up a gauge to the low side of the refrigerant line. The gauge read high. This seems normal to me since I was measuring static refrigerant pressure (since the compressor wasn't engaged). This leads me to believe that I should have enough refrigerant in the line. I am looking for some recommendations on what (and maybe how) I should go about diagnosing the problem before throwing chunks of money at it. Also, I wasn't sure if there are common problems with these A/C systems that I should be made aware of. Thank you in advance for any assistance!

 

[whatusername]

unplug the wire comeing from the compressor and connect that wire directly to the pos of the battery.. that wire is the ac clutch and if it engages then u know u the clutch is good then u start looking at switched like the cut off switch and high pressure switch also check the ac relay in the fuse box

 

[rit14623]

When you turn the fan from 0 to 1, 2, 3, or 4, does the AC light turn on when it is pressed in?
I have a problem with mine where if I turn it to 2 or 3, the AC light does not turn on and the A/C does not work, but if I turn it to 1 or 4, the green light goes on and the A/C works.
If your A/C button's light doesn't light up, then you have a wiring issue with the fan selector switch and that is a known issue with the Protege5 and there are threads here that provide a solution. You have to get access to behind the A/C control panel and solder connections. Cleaning connections is only temporary.

 

[kosteniuks17]

Its most likely your ac compressor clutch. Mine literally completely fell off my compressor. the reason behind it failing is most likely the flickering ac fan light. When it flickers it constantly engages and disengages your clutch and eventually loosening it so far that it comes loose. I had to install a new compresor and dryer just cause its a pain in the ass to just replace the clutch. Also very hard to find just that part.

 

[Hank3]

And here's the "How-To" for fixing the AC light flickering:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...the-quot-no-A-C-on-fan-speed-2-3-quot-problem

 

[whatusername]

I had to install a new compresor and dryer just cause its a pain in the ass to just replace the clutch. Also very hard to find just that part.

??????????? Dawg what r u smoking?LOL j/k But It is very easy to replace the clutch I replaced mine in 15 minutes and I did not even break a sweat. and as far as finding them U pull it junkyard protege confirmed 01-03 2.0 and 99 and up 1.8 the clutches are the same. You can replace them without even losing your freon how great is that?
Its simple
With belt connected have a friend hold the compressor pulley for xtra hold and loosen the 10mm bolt in the middle of clutch but do not remove it.Then remove the belt after belt is off remove 10 mm bolt to remove the pulley and expose the clutch and 3 Phillips screws loosen those screws and the clutch is loose only being held by the black wire (here is the hard part) cut the black wire as close to the clutch as possible and on the junk yard compressor clutch cut it a little higher than the clutch that way u have wire u can strip.. strip both wires add a piece of heat shrink connect wires melt heat shrink install clutch install 3 Phillips screws install pulley install 10mm bolt and tighten best u can. Install belt and tighten clutch bolt to spec and finally enjoy ur ac again worst case it takes 30 min with no freon loss DO NOT try and remove the wire from top of compressor cuz u will break the lil plastic and metal contact things and need a new compressor that is why u cut it where i say to cut it.

 

[igidy]

I do have that flickering problem on position 2 but it's intermittent. My A/C light will come on and the A/C will not engage. I will check the clutch by jumping it to the + side of the battery. I will check all of the stuff you mentioned and let you know what's up. Thanks for the input so far!

 

[pcb]

You might have this problem:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-blower-motor-resistor-amp-relay-STILL-NO-AIR!

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ht-on-Dash-blinking-and-not-cooling-air-fully

 

[RABID_MP5]

subbing

 

[igidy]

I had a brand new ignition coil turn out to be bad. Ever since I replaced it, every time I would let off the gas pedal my revs would drop to like 300 - 400 rpm. I was running like this for awhile and blowing my A/C fuse. I went ahead and replaced the other ignition coil and sure enough my rev problem was gone. Since then I haven't blown the fuse. I guess that the burden that the ignition coil was putting on the A/C and engine was too much.

 

[915_P5]

Try buy a refill can from walmart with a gauge on it and fill it up, that happened to my other car. Refilled it and the plate started rotating.