Bad alternator?

igidy

Member
I have recently performed some tests on my alternator (which I suspect to be faulty). I took it in to a couple of local auto parts stores and it tested good at both places (showed N/A for diode check). I decided to check the current output from the amp and here is what I found. At idle, with all electronics off, the current was approximately 12 amps. At 2000-2500 rpm the current was approximately 12 - 12.5. Still at 2000-2500 rpm, the lights were turned on and the amps jumped to around 40 amps. The blower was then turned on and the amps jumped to around 50 amps. I had the revs increased and the current maxed out at around 58 amps. Here's where it gets really funky.... I switched my ammeter over to a/c and sure enough i measured 3 amps (A/C!!!!) at 2000-2500 rpm. I know these things should NOT be putting out a/c.... how could it test good with a funked up prob like this. This alternator is most definitely bad isn't it?
 
try disconnecting the battery when the car is running, but parked please, if she keeps going your alternator is fine, if she stalls out get a new one
and you can just disconnect the red cable
 
^^ Two thumbs up for the disconnecting the battery technique. It's fast and easy and can test for a bad alternator that some bench tests can't detect.
 
Doesn't the battery provide primary power to the ECU and the field charge for the alt? Meaning this test would not work - but fail 'every' alternator?

Has someone tried this yet? I would not -the power spike to the ECU scares me...
 
Yea,... I did it to prove to my friend that the car would die if the battery was disconnected. I was wrong and my car kept running (2002 P5).
I didn't notice any ill effects from disconnecting the neg. battery cable. I reconnected the battery cable with the engine still running as well. The car will die if the alternator is bad.
I guess it's kinda an old-school backwoods technique but it's super fast and easy to do compared especially to removing the alternator for a bench test.
 
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