Canadian EGR valve exposed
- Thread starter TheMAN
- Start date
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
you use the ones that are on the stock one
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
wish i knew what was going on dan
bringing this thread back since it still is a common issue.
Has anyone actually had a p0300 random misfire and bought this canadian egr valve and has had that solve the misfire code? I have cleaned my egr and IAC, replaced plugs, coil packs and intake. Still am gettin misifre. I am going to buy egr but want to see if anyone has had it actually solve their misfire code, p0300. Thanks
Has anyone actually had a p0300 random misfire and bought this canadian egr valve and has had that solve the misfire code? I have cleaned my egr and IAC, replaced plugs, coil packs and intake. Still am gettin misifre. I am going to buy egr but want to see if anyone has had it actually solve their misfire code, p0300. Thanks
Weird, my check engine light turned off on its own, but I already received my Canadian egr. As far as the hoses go, the one goes to iac and long one to fuse box area. Where does that 3rd one go? In the pic it looks like it goes around where upper radiator hose is, but other people are talkin bout heater bypass hose? So just unsure where it goes
the "Vacuum" hose is only a vent tube, and gets routed to the fender well. the other two hoses intercept the water lines that go to the throttle body. the intent of the hoses to route any water vapors away from the valve to prevent corrosion build-up.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
good to hear...this EGR stuff has had me kind of worried for years, and i recently traced my P0300 codes (and 100% lack of ability to back out of a driveway) to a coil pack that seemingly tested fine from a local shop...but, with 155,000+ miles, that still remains the only code i've ever had this car throw other than the 2nd O2 sensor (happened before i bought the non-foulers, hasn't happened since)....
I live in PA...we get 100 degree summers with 95% humidity...and winters with at least a few weeks of 5 degree highs...and literally everything in between. Never noticed a single idel problem (other than the bad coil) in 11 years...even resetting the ecu only has it bump a little until its driven about 20 miles?...am I just that lucky? A neighbor has a P5 he bought used from Maryland, 30,000 less miles from me...he's on his 2nd EGR valve in 2 years with it...i don't get it haha, but i'm not complaining yet.
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- 2018 Mazda 3
Search under my name for EGR. I bought my used Protege LX in Dec of 2011. The EGR valve was removed. Car runs fine with no warning lights.
bump
my car were stored for the winter, just start cleanning the car last week and the dash shows me all kinds of lights
rust everywhere... i did cleaned all the brake and repainted the claiper , now
guess my egr are very likely rusted... gonna check and see it tomorrow, sub
my car were stored for the winter, just start cleanning the car last week and the dash shows me all kinds of lights
rust everywhere... i did cleaned all the brake and repainted the claiper , now
guess my egr are very likely rusted... gonna check and see it tomorrow, sub
done this,
old egr are surface rusted, didnt get clogged. working shape
but changed anyway
new egr has coolant line connected oO looks like its cooled with coolant return ?(or heated with warm coolant? XD )
and a line to drip excess moisture left in the valve
i didnt take throttle or manifold down... all i did is using mini ratchet and short 12mm socket to get it out, but it wont go in...(brought flexible ratcheting wrench and finally got it in half way and use ratchet to finish it) not sure y, but the bolt near engine are so tight to screw... and the bolt away from engine cant screw in, kept loop and fall out (had to push really hard at all time and wrench ratchet it in order to get it in.)
took me roguhly 3 hours to figure out how to take it out (battery out, liquid wrench, mini ratchet smallest ratchet forgot the size, 1/8" or 1/4"? short 12mm socket)
tools for it (liquid wrench or any other good rust penetration spray.(bolts are very likely to surface rust, but thread shouldnt be rusted wipe down the bolt surface or mini-wire brush it) mini-ratchet with 12mm bolt)
took me all day to figure out how to get it in....
(tools for it, flexible head ratcheting wrench 12mm a super handy tool for this job... dont use the fixed straight one or 25 or 75degree one, you might hit things frequently, tape, ratchet 12mm)
(tape the egr gasket edge with paint tape, dont tape too much just enough to hold the gasket in place
screw outer bolt in with hand tight,
push hard with right finger and ratchet it with fllexible head ratcheting wrench, finish with ratchet at the end
but dont screw it all the way in. leave a gap,
screw inner bolt on same method, but this time you might be able to skip the ratcheting wrench,
just use mini ratchet since you got more room , when almost done, pull the tape careful, and finish ratcheting them all the way)
for hose connection i suggest you drain coolant, make your life much much easier. i did it without it, but i layer plastic bags in my engine bay and a towel beside the hose i pull. still some splash everywhere cant avoid it.
just follow the instruction diagram and do it. its hard to figure out with words, but get the diagram on ur phone and compare it , u will find it much easier (just remember its coolant return hose u gonna put out, and connect ur egr 2 short hoses to it)
old egr are surface rusted, didnt get clogged. working shape
but changed anyway
new egr has coolant line connected oO looks like its cooled with coolant return ?(or heated with warm coolant? XD )
and a line to drip excess moisture left in the valve
i didnt take throttle or manifold down... all i did is using mini ratchet and short 12mm socket to get it out, but it wont go in...(brought flexible ratcheting wrench and finally got it in half way and use ratchet to finish it) not sure y, but the bolt near engine are so tight to screw... and the bolt away from engine cant screw in, kept loop and fall out (had to push really hard at all time and wrench ratchet it in order to get it in.)
took me roguhly 3 hours to figure out how to take it out (battery out, liquid wrench, mini ratchet smallest ratchet forgot the size, 1/8" or 1/4"? short 12mm socket)
tools for it (liquid wrench or any other good rust penetration spray.(bolts are very likely to surface rust, but thread shouldnt be rusted wipe down the bolt surface or mini-wire brush it) mini-ratchet with 12mm bolt)
took me all day to figure out how to get it in....
(tools for it, flexible head ratcheting wrench 12mm a super handy tool for this job... dont use the fixed straight one or 25 or 75degree one, you might hit things frequently, tape, ratchet 12mm)
(tape the egr gasket edge with paint tape, dont tape too much just enough to hold the gasket in place
screw outer bolt in with hand tight,
push hard with right finger and ratchet it with fllexible head ratcheting wrench, finish with ratchet at the end
but dont screw it all the way in. leave a gap,
screw inner bolt on same method, but this time you might be able to skip the ratcheting wrench,
just use mini ratchet since you got more room , when almost done, pull the tape careful, and finish ratcheting them all the way)
for hose connection i suggest you drain coolant, make your life much much easier. i did it without it, but i layer plastic bags in my engine bay and a towel beside the hose i pull. still some splash everywhere cant avoid it.
just follow the instruction diagram and do it. its hard to figure out with words, but get the diagram on ur phone and compare it , u will find it much easier (just remember its coolant return hose u gonna put out, and connect ur egr 2 short hoses to it)
Hey Jerry, sorry for dredging up bad memories. But I was wondering if you ever found the Canadian EGR valve for your 1.6L or if you found another solution. I have a 2000 protege DX 1.6L and am looking for the same part. Do you know the item number so its easier to search? I know the 1.8 is made by Standard Motor Products EGV1124.
