Nice find!
NEPOC - 24 hours of lemons?
- Thread starter slug420
- Start date
Here's a 5-speed 4-cyl 626 needs clutch:
http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1003686327.html
I think maybe it's worth looking into older 626s (like that 1992) for the sake of having a bigger car that can take more impact?
*shrugs*
I still like the Protege though.
..
And Chris, you're right, I'd rather be more realistic with the costs.
http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1003686327.html
I think maybe it's worth looking into older 626s (like that 1992) for the sake of having a bigger car that can take more impact?
*shrugs*
I still like the Protege though.
..
And Chris, you're right, I'd rather be more realistic with the costs.
Yeah, not being able to test drive it means it could be a black hole. Granted he says it was a daily driver but who knows. you could go through the effort of replacing the clutch to find out it really needs a new tranny...
...but I do agree that given the choice between a protege or 626 I'd prefer the 626. better brakes, more sheet metal, and probably more sporty suspension.
...but I do agree that given the choice between a protege or 626 I'd prefer the 626. better brakes, more sheet metal, and probably more sporty suspension.
Greenblurr93
Member
in the end, in order to make it affordable for all of us.. we need to save where possible... the only time a DOM cage would make a diff is if we were t boned full speed... that wont happen unless the dude is blindfolded... the hits i was talking about were side to side when the dude understeers into your door, not a big impact at all... the shop owner i talked to said DOM was way overkill and the most important thing was the extra bars and the weld quality
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
the LeMons rules state is has to be DOM tubing.
No, it says...
"DOM mild steel strongly recommended. No muffler tubing, no water pipe, no electrical conduit, etc. All tubing connections to the car must have proper mounting plates of appropriate size and thickness. Additional gussetting and bracing is strongly recommended."
Which means we don't need it, but they recommend it.
"DOM mild steel strongly recommended. No muffler tubing, no water pipe, no electrical conduit, etc. All tubing connections to the car must have proper mounting plates of appropriate size and thickness. Additional gussetting and bracing is strongly recommended."
Which means we don't need it, but they recommend it.
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
ah, misread that, doh!
Greenblurr93
Member
from a liability standpoint yes....
also, half the rules are put there to cover their ass... they dont care, or check most of them... they inspect the welds on the cage and thats it
also, half the rules are put there to cover their ass... they dont care, or check most of them... they inspect the welds on the cage and thats it
I know, we will be scrounging craigslist etc for deals...but i don't want to be responsible for requesting an additional $200 from everyone when we need parts. if you get $200 back at the end then so be it, consider it a bonus for being thrifty
. Don't forget everyone also has to pay for a hotel room, food, etc, etc. Although it is a cheap car, it won't be cheap racing.which brings me back to the protege. If we stick with a protege we can recycle parts and do it again next year. Those that participate both years get a discount. new drivers will have to contribute more. Or, alternatively we can sell the cage and other parts to make back some of the cost.
Think of it like escrow or something.
Greenblurr93
Member
i dunno, im partial to the cavalier as of this moment...
Mr. 4500 RPM
Member
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- Black P5
I google mapped it and my apartment in New Britain is about 45 mins from the race track. For some of those in MA I would be willing to share room here as I have a pretty big living room with a couch and a inflatabel bed I can use. Just an option.
I think Chuyler is right in regards to being realistic price wise. It is the best thing we can do because at the end of the day I would prefer to overprice and have extra then be begging for money from people or people not wanting to commit more money because they didnt budget it in.
But that is my 2 cents.
I think Chuyler is right in regards to being realistic price wise. It is the best thing we can do because at the end of the day I would prefer to overprice and have extra then be begging for money from people or people not wanting to commit more money because they didnt budget it in.
But that is my 2 cents.
Oh yea...another thing....CB radios can be bought cheap and work well for pit to car communications. Just mount one of those CB external speakers on the dash so the driver can hear. Run the pit CB off a 12v jump box. It worked for us until about 3 hours from the end of the race and then one of the CBs broke. We also ran the entire race on one set of Azenis. The right rear was destroyed by the end, but it survived. On a light car with no power the tires won't take much of a beating unless you are driving over aggressively which doesn't benefit you in any way. We brought an extra set of tires just in case we got a flat, but on a FWD car you should be OK just rotating one set at the mid-point.
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Be prepared to slot your front strut towers to get some extra camber. Cut at least one coil off the stock springs to lower the car and raise the spring rate. Take some angle iron and weld it to the stock rear swaybar to increase the bar rate. That will take some pressure off the outside front tire.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
what eva tires we needd i can get for either cheap or nothing...i'll be talking to my friend at american car care when i get home from NC monday...he may want to help sponser us...!
Ok, so are people OK with paying up to $500, possibly $600 to make this happen, in addition to up to $500 for individual expenses (driver's fee, license, and helmet/suit).
I know we have potential to save money in lots of areas, but we need a commitment from 6 drivers up front, with some sort of non-refundable good faith deposit so we can get started. If someone wants to back out later, they would be in charge of recruiting a replacement and procuring funds. Money that goes into this car, does not come out. We can try to sell parts n stuff to offset the costs (before or after the race) but don't sign on expecting this to only cost you $300. It will be more. For starters, we need $400-500 for the car and $500-800 for the cage. That is $220/driver. How do you want to handle finances? People pay for things individually and submit receipts to a book keeper, and we'll balance things as we go? People cut checks and we pay from a single source once funds are available from all team members?
Next on the agenda is storage. Where are we going to store and work on the vehicle? We've got people in CT and eastern MA so this is a tricky issue. We also cannot legally drive the car in Mass without a plate (which means passing inspection and proof of insurance). So aside from a joy ride or two, it would have to be trailered in Mass. What are the laws in CT?
Auto-X before the big day. I think the team should consider taking the vehicle to several auto-x events before July. All drivers should attend to get some seat time in the vehicle. If things break, they were going to break anyway and it will help prepare the vehicle. Right?
I know we have potential to save money in lots of areas, but we need a commitment from 6 drivers up front, with some sort of non-refundable good faith deposit so we can get started. If someone wants to back out later, they would be in charge of recruiting a replacement and procuring funds. Money that goes into this car, does not come out. We can try to sell parts n stuff to offset the costs (before or after the race) but don't sign on expecting this to only cost you $300. It will be more. For starters, we need $400-500 for the car and $500-800 for the cage. That is $220/driver. How do you want to handle finances? People pay for things individually and submit receipts to a book keeper, and we'll balance things as we go? People cut checks and we pay from a single source once funds are available from all team members?
Next on the agenda is storage. Where are we going to store and work on the vehicle? We've got people in CT and eastern MA so this is a tricky issue. We also cannot legally drive the car in Mass without a plate (which means passing inspection and proof of insurance). So aside from a joy ride or two, it would have to be trailered in Mass. What are the laws in CT?
Auto-X before the big day. I think the team should consider taking the vehicle to several auto-x events before July. All drivers should attend to get some seat time in the vehicle. If things break, they were going to break anyway and it will help prepare the vehicle. Right?
It costs $75 to be part of the crew during the race (otherwise I don't think you'll be granted access to pit row), or $30 if you just plan to be a spectator. As far as covering the cost of the vehicle and stuff, I think contributing time during the prep and maybe a small amount of money would suffice. I personally don't feel it is necessary to charge people that aren't going to get seat time. Anyone else have thoughts?
