What have you done to your MSP today?

Two half bushing on bar, oversized bearing slips over bar and sits on bushing.
 
I knew you were going to bring those up lol. If you thought the clunk was bad (freak). They'd have to be pretty tightly toleranced and with an old sway bar with paint on it I'm not sure it would even be a good idea.

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I might need to do a little drawinf but its nowhere near that complicated. There would be a two part sleeve that bolts together on the arb and the one peice ball bearing is oversized to be able to slip over the bar and turn thr bend.
If then slips over the two part sleeve and is installed into a carrier bolted to the chassis somewhere. Bearings could be flanged to prevent side play.
Bearings are rubber sealed, could be cleaned and lubed by you.
 
Picked up my head with a fresh valve job and new seals as well as my Callaway turbo mani that has been welded to fix the two cracks it had yesterday. I will be busy this weekend and going to Detroit in the Bullitt with my dad for the Mustang 50th anniversary this week so it looks like the MSP will be put back together in a couple weeks.
 
Installed new Pro-Clip cell phone mount to hold my new Nokia Lumia 1020. Not very exciting, but something, lol. I think I figured out why the Unichip wouldn't hold idle on decel and I got it fixed, so I need to re-install it and take it for a spin. If that issue is sorted out, I'm going to start playing with tuning the Unichip.
 
bonks looking good dude.
quick question for anyone running a aftermarket bypass valve in here: are there any other options out there that will work for our cars with the oe system(besides for forged)? I tried to order a forge bypass valve but they are on backorder and I would like something similar other than the oe if possible(looking to upgrade it and run a resirc system with my new setup is why I ask)
 
Thanks dudes.

The only other bypass valve type thing that I know has been proven to work is the Boostsciences RDV. But they are no where to be found as the company went under.
I'd think that a BPV from pretty much any car with close to our displacement / similar ish setup could be made to work though.
Pretty sure anything is better than the forge one, which is no better than stock, IMO. All the forge one did for me was make the turkey slightly "faster."

Props for not going BOV though ;)
 
Another autoX...
I thought I cut the fenders and bumpers enough to lower the car to race height with the 255's. WRONG! Wasted 2 runs because I had to raise it up twice. Clutch slips whenever I hit WOT over 6psi. Still ran a great line and luckily nobody fast was in SMF. Can't wait to have the fenders and front bumper done.
 
cool thanks duffbuster243. Now have you tried one of these before or you just suggesting it? I did notice those cars(at least a 1.8t) run higher psi stock than a msp but the bypass valves do look like they can work with some effort
 
cool thanks duffbuster243. Now have you tried one of these before or you just suggesting it? I did notice those cars(at least a 1.8t) run higher psi stock than a msp but the bypass valves do look like they can work with some effort

I've ran one before. It uses a 1" hose vs. 3/4" for the stock Denso unit. If you upgrade the whole system to 1" you will get rid of the turkey completely.
 
Wish I hadn't sold my AFC because I had to give up my deal on the FTC...
 
Ordered some new end links from Napa.

Fronts: ATM 103-28
Rears: ATM 103-24

On that note.. Anyone know of some extra long end links that could work for our application? (even longer than the MOOGs or the ones that come with BC coils, would be nice..)
 

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