What else to replace while replacing Timing Belt ?
- Thread starter dd123
- Start date
agreed but it rarely snaps but you never know...
I feel confident it would go on for quite more more miles..
I can afford to take this risk though
In the post above you say too much money, but then you say you can afford to take the risk. Yeah, it's much cheaper to put it off indefinitely, wait for something to go wrong, pay a tow truck fee, and have it happen at an unplanned interval possibly causing you to miss work, etc. I don't want to sound like it's going to snap at exactly the pre-determined mileage replacement interval, but putting it off until beyond the recommended replacement time just seems silly. The belt itself is around $35. Go call a tow truck company and see what they want to take you even a couple of miles. Then tell me you can afford to risk it. I'm doing mine sooner rather than later for all of the above reasons.
Whoa no if changing the timing belt means only cost $35 I will definitely get it done! But live in a apt and my mechanic quoted me 600-700, that's a different story.
Well, in next two years I will probably put in 25k city driving, makes my car 120k, and hopefully the belt will hold until then lol.
See? that's why poor people will just get poorer.
Josh
Well, in next two years I will probably put in 25k city driving, makes my car 120k, and hopefully the belt will hold until then lol.
See? that's why poor people will just get poorer.
Josh
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
The poor get poorer in this case by ignoring things until they break causing uneccessary expense & inconvenience on top of a known maintenance need. Proactiveness FTW!
lol seems like i'm contradicting my point. I would of course do it now if i have the money, but i'm left with no choice but wait until i graduate. So it's a personal thing. The rent and gf are killing my budget.
And also somehow i just want to see if timing belt these days are really that easy to break...
Josh
And also somehow i just want to see if timing belt these days are really that easy to break...
Josh
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I was mostly ribbin ya. I know everyone would like to be proactive but understand how things jack with plans & yeah, the money thing too. Haven't heard of many if anyone actually breaking one. IIRC there may have been one way back in the day. Who knows what they did to actually get it to break. IMO the tensioner spring will go before the belt allowing it to slip & screw up timing before the belt would actually break, in most cases.
I remember on my 92 626 that when you actually tightened the bolt on the belt tensioner it became immovable - the spring seemed to be just to lend it an initial tension, but the belt was strictly held by the bolt only once tight. But on the 96 626, the spring was always active - even after you tightened the bolt, taking up the belt slack. On my 02 P5 I could have sworn that once again the belt was totally immobile once you tightened the bolt. Anybody remember noticing this type of thing? (I'm not gonna tear it back apart just to see...)
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Haven't actually been there yet myself but many have posted up about replacing the spring so I figured spring always active.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
FS = non interference , no worries!
more than likely the car will not be drivable. each slip on a tooth on the cam will be about a 3 degree retard. i've never retarded my cams more than 3degrees so i don't know what will happen. my car does not idle with a 3 degree overlap on either cam
but more than likely you'll experience some valve clearance issues
but more than likely you'll experience some valve clearance issues
No mention of tools required. I figured I'd try to remember the key tools when I did this last summer.
A set of ratcheting wrenches will save you a SIGNIFICANT amount of time. You'll also find that certain combinations of sockets and ratchets work better than others on certain bolts. Having a 1/4 drive and 3/8 metric set on standby with different extensions will help. Make sure you VERY CAREFULLY follow the loosening and tightening instructions for the valve cover in the service manual. Don't forget that you need goop on the valve cover gasket. Follow the service manually closely here too. There are a couple of spots where you should NOT put gasket sealer.
Also, the water pump I bought came with a little paper gasket. I strongly suggest dropping the extra $2 and getting the gasket that comes by itself. It was much more beefy than the paper one -- which failed on me 10 seconds after I started the car! Yes, that means, I did my timing belt TWICE! Oh, and don't forget gasket sealer on the water pump gasket.
A good floorjack is really helpful too. There are a few situations where you can jack up the engine a bit (after taking off the motor mount on the pass side) to gain clearance.
A set of ratcheting wrenches will save you a SIGNIFICANT amount of time. You'll also find that certain combinations of sockets and ratchets work better than others on certain bolts. Having a 1/4 drive and 3/8 metric set on standby with different extensions will help. Make sure you VERY CAREFULLY follow the loosening and tightening instructions for the valve cover in the service manual. Don't forget that you need goop on the valve cover gasket. Follow the service manually closely here too. There are a couple of spots where you should NOT put gasket sealer.
Also, the water pump I bought came with a little paper gasket. I strongly suggest dropping the extra $2 and getting the gasket that comes by itself. It was much more beefy than the paper one -- which failed on me 10 seconds after I started the car! Yes, that means, I did my timing belt TWICE! Oh, and don't forget gasket sealer on the water pump gasket.
A good floorjack is really helpful too. There are a few situations where you can jack up the engine a bit (after taking off the motor mount on the pass side) to gain clearance.
Ditch the gf (high maintenance unit? Replace before too late(screwy)) and focus on the important stuff - the CAR [smile].
spotthedogg
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Pro5
what is the feeling on the Ebay timing belt kits? They have kits with tensioners, seals, water pump for around $100-125 + shipping
Given how much labor it takes to gain access to these parts, there is absolutely no reason to take a chance and save a few bucks. Buy the OEM stuff.
A spark plug wire is a great part to try to buy on ebay... 10 sec swap if it fails. A timing belt on the other hand... NO WAY!
check rockauto.com for the Gates t-belt/tensioner/idler kit $125. Check onlinemazdaparts.com for OEM water pump w gasket, t-stat w gasket, tensioner spring, 2 cam seals, front oil seal, valve cover gasket. Good time to do radiator hoses as well, they're cheap.
+1 on not skimping on parts for this job.
+1 on not skimping on parts for this job.
