rpm idle low problem, but only at complete stop !!???

[apocman]

I think I know the cricket sound you are talking about. I get it at 3000rpm. I think it has something to do with the rear motor mount getting broken down and causing something to vibrate. Do you have just a front motor mount, and do you have a short shifter? I think that my "cricket" might be the exhaust heat shield vibrating against the exhaust because it was moved closer after installing my TWM shifter.

changed my front motor mount out last week and the old one was basically ripped in half. Also when JDMSAM installed my front motor mount, he said he really thinks my back motor mount is trashed as well. I dont have a heat shield anymore after installing my short shifter I took it off to cut on it, but have not put it back on. I still think your onto something though, it could be something else creating the rattling due to the weak rear motor mount.

In addition, I have always in the back of my head thought I wired my devices to the wrong wire for power and think that it may be causing the idle issue, but I'm not an expert so I have to test each and every thing until I find what the cause is.

Please keep posting!! I like your advice and I feel if we all work together we can resolve these issues for each other...

 

[peepsalot]

Well, how about idling high? My car idles at 2,000rpm. when the overnight temperature drops below ~45F: 2,500rpm... its disgusting....

That's normal during warmup. Once the coolant gets to temperature, it should level off to normal idle levels. If it doesn't then you probably have a bad IAC.

 

[mopiko]

I tried to take out the IAC but it seems to be mounted with some crazy looking screw. I don't know where I can find the driver for those... Any pointers?

 

[Spooled]

OK, here's an update. I got my voltage stabilizer and installed it (one wire goes to the positive terminal, and the other to a body ground). It's basically a capacitor in a fancy case. I instantly noticed a difference, but I am a cynic when it comes to mods like this, so I attributed it to the fact that my ECU was reset because I had the battery disconnected. So I drove around, got it warmed it, and did some hard runs. Then I stopped and let it idle for a while to let the fans kick in. The idle didn't even move when they came on. So I turned the A/C on, turned the A/C fan all the way up, flipped the headlights on, and rolled all the windows up and down. Damn, this thing really works! No idle problems so far, and my headlights don't dim when the A/C comes on. The windows don't slow down to half speed when more than one is moving, either! I have to say, it was worth the $25.

I'm not saying that everyone should run out and buy one right away, but these are my initial impressions. I'm going to thoroughly test it over the next couple of days to make sure that it wasn't some coincidence. In case you are wondering exacly what I got, it's this:

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

For those of you who want the fake MazdaSpeed badging on it, my friend said he saw a similar item on eBay with them, but it was $10 more.

 

[peepsalot]

I tried to take out the IAC but it seems to be mounted with some crazy looking screw. I don't know where I can find the driver for those... Any pointers?

Well, the IAC can be removed from the throttle body with just two phillips screws if I remember correctly. Once you have it off, I used needle nose vise grips and carefully removed those crazy screws. Needle nose vise grips again to put them back on.

 

[peepsalot]

OK, here's an update. I got my voltage stabilizer and installed it (one wire goes to the positive terminal, and the other to a body ground). It's basically a capacitor in a fancy case. I instantly noticed a difference, but I am a cynic when it comes to mods like this, so I attributed it to the fact that my ECU was reset because I had the battery disconnected. So I drove around, got it warmed it, and did some hard runs. Then I stopped and let it idle for a while to let the fans kick in. The idle didn't even move when they came on. So I turned the A/C on, turned the A/C fan all the way up, flipped the headlights on, and rolled all the windows up and down. Damn, this thing really works! No idle problems so far, and my headlights don't dim when the A/C comes on. The windows don't slow down to half speed when more than one is moving, either! I have to say, it was worth the $25.

I'm not saying that everyone should run out and buy one right away, but these are my initial impressions. I'm going to thoroughly test it over the next couple of days to make sure that it wasn't some coincidence. In case you are wondering exacly what I got, it's this:

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

For those of you who want the fake MazdaSpeed badging on it, my friend said he saw a similar item on eBay with them, but it was $10 more.

I'm still finding it hard to believe. I wonder how many farads it is? How about an update in a week just to verify.

 

[Spooled]

I'm still finding it hard to believe. I wonder how many farads it is? How about an update in a week just to verify.

Who knows. I guess I don't really expect a whole stat sheet for a $25 eBay kit. I'll keep my eye on it like I said.

 

[jurgs01]

If it works, then a grounding kit would also improve your problem. A capacitor in parallel with your battery does nothing more than store energy for when the current draw becomes too high for the battery. Then, when the current draw drops, the battery recharges the cap which "waits" for another high-amperage draw or peak. Same thing as putting a cap in parallel with your stereo amplifier. You could do this yourself very easily.

 

[peepsalot]

If it works, then a grounding kit would also improve your problem. A capacitor in parallel with your battery does nothing more than store energy for when the current draw becomes too high for the battery. Then, when the current draw drops, the battery recharges the cap which "waits" for another high-amperage draw or peak. Same thing as putting a cap in parallel with your stereo amplifier. You could do this yourself very easily.

I have a grounding kit already, and still have idling problems.

Hey spooled, it wouuld be cool if you could pop it open and verify what's in it. I understand if you don't want to mess with it though.

 

[apocman]

I have a grounding kit already, and still have idling problems.

Hey spooled, it wouuld be cool if you could pop it open and verify what's in it. I understand if you don't want to mess with it though.

I'm about to install a monster of a grounding kit. I bought the biggest one they make from JDMSAM.

 

[apocman]

OK, here's an update. I got my voltage stabilizer and installed it (one wire goes to the positive terminal, and the other to a body ground). It's basically a capacitor in a fancy case. I instantly noticed a difference, but I am a cynic when it comes to mods like this, so I attributed it to the fact that my ECU was reset because I had the battery disconnected. So I drove around, got it warmed it, and did some hard runs. Then I stopped and let it idle for a while to let the fans kick in. The idle didn't even move when they came on. So I turned the A/C on, turned the A/C fan all the way up, flipped the headlights on, and rolled all the windows up and down. Damn, this thing really works! No idle problems so far, and my headlights don't dim when the A/C comes on. The windows don't slow down to half speed when more than one is moving, either! I have to say, it was worth the $25.

I'm not saying that everyone should run out and buy one right away, but these are my initial impressions. I'm going to thoroughly test it over the next couple of days to make sure that it wasn't some coincidence. In case you are wondering exacly what I got, it's this:

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

For those of you who want the fake MazdaSpeed badging on it, my friend said he saw a similar item on eBay with them, but it was $10 more.

Thats great to hear!!!! Keep us updated !!!!

 

[marashka]

subscribing for updates.

 

[Rainman]

Never had idling problems before. Now 2 weeks after my FMIC install and 1 week after my EGR and my exhaust manifold gasket were replaced I have the same idling issue. I reset my ECU since the repair and it improved things a little bit, but the car idles at about 600 rpm and when I am in neutral it drops to about 400 momentarily (pretending that it is gonna stall) and then climbs back up to 600. It doesn't do this when the engine is cold, only when warm. I assume that this is because the cold idle is set higher than the warm idle. Waiting to have my wideband installed so that I can see what is going on.

R

 

[Wiggles422]

good info spooled

do let us know how well it's working for you in the days to come. i have so many (probable) electrical things going on it's crazy.

all four windows roll up and down at different speeds, headlights flicker randomly and volts drop down to 12.5ish and then go right up to 14.8ish and then settle around 13.8, there's a random clicking in the engine bay; it sounds like a solenoid or relay, and when the AC and/or fans come on the voltage drops under 13 volts.

 

[apocman]

ok I thought I would post this here.

My car would stall and had low idle problems. Well, it doesn't do it anymore and I know why....

Ok, I'll make the statement first. "I'm an asshat!!!" (hand) Ok, now for the reason I'm the said "asshat" well I had my eletronic boost controller hooked up wrong. (bang) Even though my turbo worked great at the set whatever PSI and such(shrug) , it was wrong. I didn't realize it until after I installed an open exhuast and then I had crazy uncontrollable boost spike.

JDMSAM figured out that my s*** was wrong and fixed it and we re'did the boost controller settings and now the EBC works great and I don't have stalling or low idle issues anymore!!! (headbang)

BTW, I was running open wastegate when it was setup wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (attn) (shocked) (chair) (crazy)

now I'll go hide before the popshots begin to fly "TAKE COVER!!!! INCOMING!!!!!!!!!!" (outie)

 

[Spooled]

I just want to clearify something about the capacitor setup: it's not the same thing as a grounding kit. Similar, yes, but it is theoretically much better because of a the way it handles fluxuations in power. It's a natual spike/dip filter.

Now for an update after a few days. I did notice "some" of the problems coming back, but not nearly as bad. I still get the dip in RMPs, but it's not as drastic, and not nearly as often. One thing that may have caused the initial cure was having the battery disconnected long enough for the ECU to reset. I'm not really sure why this would help, unless the ECU affects the idle (I thought we found that there is a screw on the throttle body for that). But if it IS the ECU that controls the idle, then a noise reducer for the electrical system could account for more consistant sensor readings, which in turn allow the ECU to compensate better.

Now, I am going to have to say that the stabilizer didn't take care of the idle problem, so lets move on to the next probable cause: a vacuum leak. The ONLY time that I ever get a dip in my idle is when the radiator fans kick on. My idle actually goes up slightly when I turn the A/C on full blast.

-Why would the radiator fans cause a load on the engine? The fans are solely electrical, so it doesn't make any sense. It's as if there's a clutch on the alternator that puts more load onthe engine, but that's not it.

-How would a strain on electrical put a demand on the engine or vacuum? If we find that, it will lead us to the source of the problem.

-Has anyone tried pulling out the IAC and cleaning/lubing it? I have no idea where it is, to be honest. It could very well be sticking.

-Disregaurd anything you hear about it being caused by the EGR valve, because I've pulled it, cleaned it thouroughly, lubed it, and it didn't help at all.

-Can someone post a pic of the IAC. I might just get one from the dealer and see if it fixes it.

-Can someone explain, in detail, excatly how the IAC works? Does it read the manifold vacuum? Does it read the IAT? Does it read the thermostat? Does it rely on the ECU to decide how much air to let in? Is it independent of the ECU?

Basically, I'm glad I got the stabilizer, because now it's not in the back of my mind. It did help with lights dimming, etc., but wasn't a total cure. On to the next thing, I guess.

 

[peepsalot]

-Why would the radiator fans cause a load on the engine? The fans are solely electrical, so it doesn't make any sense. It's as if there's a clutch on the alternator that puts more load onthe engine, but that's not it.

I think what is happening is there is a problem like a vacuum leak somewhere, and this is causing the engine to run rough, not getting full power that it would normally get at idle. There is not a clutch on the alternator, but the more work it has to do to keep the battery charged, the more resistance it will provide. It's just how it works. If the alternator was unplugged from the rest of the system, it would provide very little resistance. If you shorted it out, it would provide very high resistance, probably until it failed.

-Has anyone tried pulling out the IAC and cleaning/lubing it? I have no idea where it is, to be honest. It could very well be sticking.

Yes, I have, it didn't help me. It is on the throttle body.

-Disregaurd anything you hear about it being caused by the EGR valve, because I've pulled it, cleaned it thouroughly, lubed it, and it didn't help at all.

(mswerd)

-Can someone post a pic of the IAC. I might just get one from the dealer and see if it fixes it.

Do it if you like, but I think it would be a waste of money. I'm pretty sure they aren't too cheap.

-Can someone explain, in detail, excatly how the IAC works? Does it read the manifold vacuum? Does it read the IAT? Does it read the thermostat? Does it rely on the ECU to decide how much air to let in? Is it independent of the ECU?

It is a valve controlled by the ecu that acts as a secondary throttle sort of. It opens and closes a duct of air that bypasses the throttle plate. The ecu uses this to try to keep the idle where it wants it. Like on cold starts, your IAC is open very much, since the ECU wants the idle high for a faster warmup.

 

[peepsalot]

On a side note, I happened to find not just one, but two vacuum leaks I had yesterday. I had a couple bad rubber vacuum caps on my manifold that were all cracked. One where the vacuum line branches off to the VTCS solenoid(since I have removed my VTCSvalves) and one vacuum cap on the intake manifold that nornally goes to the BPV and wastegate(since I have them tapped off of the brake booster line). Surpisingly after fixing these two vacuum leaks, my problem still remains. I am still pretty convinced my problem lies in the gasket on my intake manifold, but I just haven't had to time to replace it yet.

 

[apocman]

I just want to clearify something about the capacitor setup: it's not the same thing as a grounding kit. Similar, yes, but it is theoretically much better because of a the way it handles fluxuations in power. It's a natual spike/dip filter.

Now for an update after a few days. I did notice "some" of the problems coming back, but not nearly as bad. I still get the dip in RMPs, but it's not as drastic, and not nearly as often. One thing that may have caused the initial cure was having the battery disconnected long enough for the ECU to reset. I'm not really sure why this would help, unless the ECU affects the idle (I thought we found that there is a screw on the throttle body for that). But if it IS the ECU that controls the idle, then a noise reducer for the electrical system could account for more consistant sensor readings, which in turn allow the ECU to compensate better.

Now, I am going to have to say that the stabilizer didn't take care of the idle problem, so lets move on to the next probable cause: a vacuum leak. The ONLY time that I ever get a dip in my idle is when the radiator fans kick on. My idle actually goes up slightly when I turn the A/C on full blast.

-Why would the radiator fans cause a load on the engine? The fans are solely electrical, so it doesn't make any sense. It's as if there's a clutch on the alternator that puts more load onthe engine, but that's not it.

-How would a strain on electrical put a demand on the engine or vacuum? If we find that, it will lead us to the source of the problem.

-Has anyone tried pulling out the IAC and cleaning/lubing it? I have no idea where it is, to be honest. It could very well be sticking.

-Disregaurd anything you hear about it being caused by the EGR valve, because I've pulled it, cleaned it thouroughly, lubed it, and it didn't help at all.

-Can someone post a pic of the IAC. I might just get one from the dealer and see if it fixes it.

-Can someone explain, in detail, excatly how the IAC works? Does it read the manifold vacuum? Does it read the IAT? Does it read the thermostat? Does it rely on the ECU to decide how much air to let in? Is it independent of the ECU?

Basically, I'm glad I got the stabilizer, because now it's not in the back of my mind. It did help with lights dimming, etc., but wasn't a total cure. On to the next thing, I guess.

Thanks for the detailed update!!! (cool)

 

[Spooled]

On a side note, I happened to find not just one, but two vacuum leaks I had yesterday. I had a couple bad rubber vacuum caps on my manifold that were all cracked. One where the vacuum line branches off to the VTCS solenoid(since I have removed my VTCSvalves) and one vacuum cap on the intake manifold that nornally goes to the BPV and wastegate(since I have them tapped off of the brake booster line). Surpisingly after fixing these two vacuum leaks, my problem still remains. I am still pretty convinced my problem lies in the gasket on my intake manifold, but I just haven't had to time to replace it yet.

thanks for all the info.

That is really wierd that it didn't fix the problem, but of course you may have had more than one leak. I'm going to do some extensive "carb cleaner tests" tonight to see if I can find anything. I still haven't gotten around to replacing al the lines. Does anyone happen to have a list of sizes/lengths needed to replace all the vacuum lines? I don't feel like measuring it all if someone already did.