LMK if you come up with anything.
BTW, offtopic; Love your car! The blue, with the MX5 wheels is nice!
Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
LMK if you come up with anything.
BTW, offtopic; Love your car! The blue, with the MX5 wheels is nice!
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Sent a message to Steve but thought I'd ask here too... also for future reference to others 
Got a hell of a deal on a used LT10s that was bought through Steve a while back and just need to verify a few things.
I'm creating plug n play connectors for the cut connections same as I have for my haltech f10a but now with ign... in the mix too for a clean install and ease to switching back to stock for inspection.
The install instructions have a date of "Update 1/22/07 V1.8" It is specific on running TPS, IAT & ECT wiring to the bay... is this necessary? Also the CAS using the shielded harness to the sensor (is the stock wiring to the sensor not shielded?) Most ems's have plug n play options these days so I figured...
I'd like to keep as much out of the engine bay and close to the ecu without sacrificing anything.
I'm running 730cc Forester injectors and want to start calculating out some maps and comparing some correction values, timing... posted here and getting a jump on things since this is my daily and can't have much down time for street tuning. Can I access maps from the dongle without the unit being hooked up?
What is the internal MAP sensor limit? Looks like 3bar but I thought it was only 2.5bar??
Thanks a ton
Shane
Got a hell of a deal on a used LT10s that was bought through Steve a while back and just need to verify a few things.
I'm creating plug n play connectors for the cut connections same as I have for my haltech f10a but now with ign... in the mix too for a clean install and ease to switching back to stock for inspection.
The install instructions have a date of "Update 1/22/07 V1.8" It is specific on running TPS, IAT & ECT wiring to the bay... is this necessary? Also the CAS using the shielded harness to the sensor (is the stock wiring to the sensor not shielded?) Most ems's have plug n play options these days so I figured...
I'd like to keep as much out of the engine bay and close to the ecu without sacrificing anything.
I'm running 730cc Forester injectors and want to start calculating out some maps and comparing some correction values, timing... posted here and getting a jump on things since this is my daily and can't have much down time for street tuning. Can I access maps from the dongle without the unit being hooked up?
What is the internal MAP sensor limit? Looks like 3bar but I thought it was only 2.5bar??
Thanks a ton
Shane
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Hope Steve doesn't mind me posting his response for future reference...
You should be able to do the TPS IAT etc at the ECU if you know the pinouts. Main reason we said not to was due to the possibility of signal noise. If you are confident in your wiring and troubleshooting you should be fine doing it at the ECU. If you get ignition breakup or weird AFR's you may need to move the connections. Stock wiring sensor I can't remember if it is shielded or not for the CAS but I would assume it is, I think with foil though instead of mesh which was an issue before.
You cannot access the maps on the dongle without the unit hooked up, we programmed them by just wiring up a mini harness so that we could apply 12V across the battery and ground pins. If you do that you can work with the unit out of the car.
I believe the internal MAP sensors on all the units we sold went up to a peak of 22 psi. Didn't quite map perfectly to the normal bar ratings. The unit will know/show that based on the values available in the maps when you power it up.
Good luck!
You should be able to do the TPS IAT etc at the ECU if you know the pinouts. Main reason we said not to was due to the possibility of signal noise. If you are confident in your wiring and troubleshooting you should be fine doing it at the ECU. If you get ignition breakup or weird AFR's you may need to move the connections. Stock wiring sensor I can't remember if it is shielded or not for the CAS but I would assume it is, I think with foil though instead of mesh which was an issue before.
You cannot access the maps on the dongle without the unit hooked up, we programmed them by just wiring up a mini harness so that we could apply 12V across the battery and ground pins. If you do that you can work with the unit out of the car.
I believe the internal MAP sensors on all the units we sold went up to a peak of 22 psi. Didn't quite map perfectly to the normal bar ratings. The unit will know/show that based on the values available in the maps when you power it up.
Good luck!
Any chance on getting some of the maps you guys put on the units you sold? Like the much sought after 440 injector map?
I could give you my maps...but they will be useless to you. You really *have* to tune the thing yourself. The base map on the computer that you get from factory should be able to get the car started so you can gingerly drive it to a dyno, or start road tuning yourself. But you should never expect to just get a map and think its going to work for your application..
Sent a message to Steve but thought I'd ask here too... also for future reference to others
Got a hell of a deal on a used LT10s that was bought through Steve a while back and just need to verify a few things.
I'm creating plug n play connectors for the cut connections same as I have for my haltech f10a but now with ign... in the mix too for a clean install and ease to switching back to stock for inspection.
The install instructions have a date of "Update 1/22/07 V1.8" It is specific on running TPS, IAT & ECT wiring to the bay... is this necessary? Also the CAS using the shielded harness to the sensor (is the stock wiring to the sensor not shielded?) Most ems's have plug n play options these days so I figured...
I'd like to keep as much out of the engine bay and close to the ecu without sacrificing anything.
I'm running 730cc Forester injectors and want to start calculating out some maps and comparing some correction values, timing... posted here and getting a jump on things since this is my daily and can't have much down time for street tuning. Can I access maps from the dongle without the unit being hooked up?
What is the internal MAP sensor limit? Looks like 3bar but I thought it was only 2.5bar??
Thanks a ton
Shane
When I did the wiring on AusOrion's car, I experimented for the first time with a 'pure' in car installation. Worked a treat but the wiring was much more difficult to do. I think in the end on CKS, CAS and WAT went into the enginebay...WAT because AusOrion runs a second water temp sensor, and CKS and CAS because we had an interference problem (which I believe is probably solvable with an in car installation in hind sight.)
Its a much harder job to wire at the ECU pinouts, but if you are a soldering ninja it is absolutely viable.
The CKS and CAS were always connected in the cabin. There were issues due to the plugs not connecting properly and losing connection due to vibrations and people kicking them. This has been solved by simply hard wiring the connection - no problems since.
Yes, I had a separate WAT sensor which was hooked up directly to the Microtech.
What I still want to know is whether the TPS signal can be spliced so that the Microtech and the stock ECU can share the signal?
Probably not... given the TPS is essentially a resistor/potentiometer, you have the same potential problem you get when you try and share the WAT sensor.
The stock ecu shouldn't give 2 s**** about the TPS though...
Its not a major problem.
I just think that it may help with idling (seeing as the stock ECU does that) and also shutting off the a/c at WOT (not that my a/c is on much).
I have also read that it is spliced sometimes, although it would difficult to determine how successful that has been
Its not a major problem.
I just think that it may help with idling (seeing as the stock ECU does that) and also shutting off the a/c at WOT (not that my a/c is on much).
I have also read that it is spliced sometimes, although it would difficult to determine how successful that has been
You can try it and see...
all you need is a multimeter, a wire stripper and a soldering iron... measure the resistance without it spliced while adjusting the throttle position.
splice it and repeat.
Also watch the dash - if it works, the TPS output will read the same in both instances..if it doesn't you've got a problem.
I would imagine that TPS will have very little impact on idle...most of the idle control is coming out of your water temp and engine speed. resetting the factory idle rpm to something approximating what the microtech holds it at naturally will probably yield better results (the stock ECU is trying to push for an idle speed which is much lower than is attainable given your cams and the piss poor low RPM fidelity that the microtech gives you).
If you want to turn the AC off at WOT, a microswitch would probably be an easier solution - thats how we have Andrew's nitrous trigger set up i think (a big switch loop that requires master ON, WOT, and an RPM out to be met before the nitrous system arms)
I just did my first tuning runs with a GTECH Pro. Ran about 6 runs max HP was 122.5 at about 7200, but I have to figure out why the Gtech is reading a higher RPM than my REV limit is set at (6850). If you know anything about the GTECH pro, it's supposed to register much lower HP/Torque numbers than a chassis dyno, so Im going back out tomorrow night and playing with the valve timing,fuel and ignition some more. i wish I could somehow convert the GTECH readings to Dyno figures.
So I've been trying to start the car tonight and I think I may have an issue. I know it's getting tons of fuel because it's stinky in the garage. My issue is it won't catch. I plugged the stock ecu in and she started right away, although very roughly cuz it's running on 440s.
Any suggestions as to what may be my issue? I'm going to go over all of the wiring to test for continuity but other than that what else can I do? Is there something that I might be able to set in the program to test the spark?
Any suggestions as to what may be my issue? I'm going to go over all of the wiring to test for continuity but other than that what else can I do? Is there something that I might be able to set in the program to test the spark?
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Awesome man! I keep putting my install off due to uncontrolled issues...
dying with my allergies last saturday when my boys were at their moms as soon as I woke up so that trashed all plans. Extremely busy at work... so getting to soldering up my mostly plug n play connectors to the harness has been an intermittent task that will hopefully get finished today Along with starting on accommodating my egt and new wb replacement on the sterring column with some mounting cups and bondo before I get to the lt10s install. Since half the leds on the display on my plx wb are out
dying with my allergies last saturday when my boys were at their moms as soon as I woke up so that trashed all plans. Extremely busy at work... so getting to soldering up my mostly plug n play connectors to the harness has been an intermittent task that will hopefully get finished today
Along with starting on accommodating my egt and new wb replacement on the sterring column with some mounting cups and bondo before I get to the lt10s install. Since half the leds on the display on my plx wb are out Tell us what was wrong.
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