Microtech Library

[Alamo1]

I bought the system used with an X4. It took some time but I figured out that the X4 takes the -ve signal from the LT10S and turns it into a +ve. So basically I was trying to run the stock coils off the X4 when I shouldn't have. Made a jumper for the 4pin signal harness to the 6pin X4 harness so I didn't have to re-wire a bunch of stuff and she fired right up.

Just so everyone knows, I made a plug and play harness for my setup. Like the AEM adapter they sell for ~$250. Everything is wired in the pass footwell except TPS, and the extra water and air temp sensors that I put in. It's a freaking mess right now but I hope to have it cleaned up next week so I can run the car cleaned up as best as it can be.

Also, It started up with 440's on the "ImprovedStockInjector" map that Steve posted up. It's pig rich and I had to drop the crank values at 24 and 18 down to almost 0, but she starts every time. I thought it would take alot more to get her going. After I figured out the issue it started within 15mins of tinkering with the crank values.

Anyone know where I can do some good reading about timing? I know little about it and have googled about a zillion different things but cant seem to find any good resources giving easy to understand theory.

 

[Alamo1]

Don't worry. I spent ~25-30 hours on my wiring and now I'll probably spend 5 more on cleaning up my mess in the car. Your post just gave me an idea for the future for when I may even change things up again and wire it differently.

Awesome man! I keep putting my install off due to uncontrolled issues...

dying with my allergies last saturday when my boys were at their moms as soon as I woke up so that trashed all plans. Extremely busy at work... so getting to soldering up my mostly plug n play connectors to the harness has been an intermittent task that will hopefully get finished today Along with starting on accommodating my egt and new wb replacement on the sterring column with some mounting cups and bondo before I get to the lt10s install. Since half the leds on the display on my plx wb are out

 

[Alamo1]

This does not look complete?????

Here is the version I have View attachment 193219

 

[br289165]

It ran rich with that map an 440's, that map's for 280's. Start with that NSN timing map, manually inserts the values.

 

[Alamo1]

So now I have some legitimate questions.

First, I'm getting heavy rich spots when coming from light vac 0-5inHG to heavy vac 20-25inHG. Where should I be making my adjustments? This causes, in longer instances, fuel clouds out the exhaust as I'm driving. Not an often occurrence.

Second, when I'm at idle and blip the throttle she hesitates, not to a stall but enough to cause me to hit the gas a little longer.

Third, I've changed some of my air temp adjustments to keep myself sufficiently rich. Any suggestions on how to know where to make the necessary changes to keep the A/F ratios smooth?

 

[shane02pro5]

Datalogging?

 

[Alamo1]

I did log but haven't had a chance to study it.

 

[shane02pro5]

The cruising areas (-20hg to like -10hg) are a little touchy since such little fuel is flowing. Some areas may not be able to run at a perfect 14.7 without the injectors sputtering below minimum flow causing a lean condition. If you start seeing random lean conditions crusing (not under acceleration) just bump the fuel back up in that and other cruising areas below that specific injection time... For instance My large 730cc injectors don't like to flow below around 1.300ms injection time so other than below an idle where I want to swing lean like when you are in a decel you push vac past idle into engine braking. Then once you get closer to idle vac (-22 to -18ish) you return to your idle afrs which depending on your injectors is usually steadied at a little bit richer afr than stoich. Also be aware that surrounding cells on the map should blend in a smooth transition or you'll end up with stuttering and bucking.

On the fly just cruise at around 50 and hold at different vac positions to give you an idea of where adjustment needs to be and make like 1-2% adjustments at a time... Seriously though datalogging makes this all cake.

 

[Alamo1]

I'll have to get out and look at the log this weekend. Car probably won't see anymore road time this week.

 

[BlkWidow]

I have emission coming up soon, I wanted know be I wire in my Mircotech. Will I have a cel on once the Mircotech is wired into the car, no point in wiring it in if I'm going to get a cel at emission testing time.

 

[Alamo1]

Mine is on all the time.

 

[shane02pro5]

The reason for the cel is not using the resistor on the IAT signal for the stock ecu to not freak out... but for inspection this should not be in the loop anymore which is why most of the wiring being done inside makes it a little easier to switch out for just that.

 

[Alamo1]

I have a second IAT hooked to the lt10. Would that still be the cause? I do not have the second o2 though.

 

[shane02pro5]

I would think since the stock IAT is still sending info to the ecu. Not having the second 02 will also cause a cel though

 

[Alamo1]

I've got an issue with my setup. I've noticed a couple times that my tpscal has not been at 0. I set it and then when I drive the car, let it sit for a couple days to wait out the bad weather and then when I look at it again its not at 0 again. I usually change between +18 and +24.

Any ideas? Could it be affected by heat or possibly the time it sits? Should I try another sensor to see if it's that? Should I just set it and forget it even if it no longer reads at 0?

 

[br289165]

Readjust the throttle cable linkage behind the throttle body. Check the bolts on the TPS.

 

[br289165]

When setting initial timing after the install With the timing lock on I was at 0* with the timing light. After turning the timing lock off,I had to add 15* to the timtrm value to get the timing mark with the timing light to move from the 0* mark to the 10 mark on the timing cover and crank pulley marks. According to the NSN instructions, the Microtech should have came with a set timing of 12-15* btdc. If I had to add the 15* for the light to match 10* on the cover, does that mean my unit did not come with the 12-15* set timing as NSN said?

 

[Alamo1]

So I'm having an issue. I'm not sure of the cause. With the hot weather the car has been performing well when I'm on the highway. When I come to a stop it seems to drop rpms to the point of hitting the crank map (which seems to be 0rpm) and them it dumps fuel and comes back to life. It doesn't stall at all just major rpm fluctuations. I had it do it today and after holding the throttle down so it ran about 1500rpm it smoothed out but then started to fluctuate between about 1100 and 2000 rapidly. This is beyond me. Am I getting a bad crank or cam signal? Could heat have something to do with increasing sensor clearance so that they arent reading correctly?

Any ideas would be welcomed.

 

[br289165]

Is it bouncing back and forth between cells in matrix mode like from the 1000 to 2000 cells at 20 or 25hg?Are those cells valued way different like .95ms to 2.00ms for example? Did you adjust camgears for more overlap recently, that would cause the idle to hunt from any big overlap at idle? The crank map is for starting, not idling or accelerating, It adds fuel when cranking for colder starts. How bout your 82 deg and 99deg water map settings? I would wait til the motor's cooled overnight, start it up and readjust to your target afrs if needed as it goes through the temp range to the normal operating temp. Say if you're aiming for 14.0 afr for example through the entire temp range at idle and you get to 82deg and afr's are leaner than 14.0 and then they fatten up at 99 deg then you need to fatten up at 82 deg to get a 14.0 afr. Of course when the motor's cold it should run richer than the normal operating temp afr's, maybe 12-13.0 afr's for maybe the first 30 seconds or so.Check your pump 1 settings, they shouldn't be set too high. I keep mine low like 2-4% with just a little timing advance in pump mode so it doesn't get to much drivetrain lash. Also check your timing settings in the upper water and air temp screens, but I doubt it's the timing. let me know.

 

[TurfBurn]

So I'm having an issue. I'm not sure of the cause. With the hot weather the car has been performing well when I'm on the highway. When I come to a stop it seems to drop rpms to the point of hitting the crank map (which seems to be 0rpm) and them it dumps fuel and comes back to life. It doesn't stall at all just major rpm fluctuations. I had it do it today and after holding the throttle down so it ran about 1500rpm it smoothed out but then started to fluctuate between about 1100 and 2000 rapidly. This is beyond me. Am I getting a bad crank or cam signal? Could heat have something to do with increasing sensor clearance so that they arent reading correctly?

Any ideas would be welcomed.

It's called hunting. Most of the time it indicates the car is too lean in that area. Not sure if you have a wideband on the car or not, but push up the idle AFR's in those areas (using the water temp as suggested above is a reasonable way to do it). The other thing that can cause it as well is timing. Not sure what your water map timing looks like, but if you push in a few more degrees at idle that can help stabilize it as well.

The "Crank" reference showing up is usually because the rpm's dropped below 500 during the hunting. Anything under 500 the Microtech will treat as cranking.