Microtech Library

So as per the actual change I'd push timing on the microtech screen more positive and it would advance the timing? Afr's are pretty smooth. I'll have to get in there and look at it again.

Steve, would you suggest a hand controller for someone like me that is only ever going to street tune for quick changes on the fly such as this?
 
Sometimes it's the actual change in timing when coming to a stop while the throttle is closed, but the RPM's are higher than at a standstill,like when you come to a stop sign and push in the clutch and the RPM's drop for you and then they come back up, it's going through timing cells at different MAP and RPM changes, then it settles down when the motor catches up to itself. If you have no vacuum leaks and everything is working right, it should idle most if not all of the time in one fuel cell, usually the 20hg at 1000 RPM cell, unless you turn on the lights or the A/C, then it should go into a higher load cell and might bounce back and forth between different cells. Mine was starting out high when I stopped, like 1400 RPM, then settles in at about 1000 RPM when the motor is well warmed up, so I watched the cells being used at those points in matrix mode and adjusted fuel up or down to even things out. But I have much "bigger" cams than stock, which causes more overlap and needs more fuel and timing at idle to offset intake dilution from the extra overlap.
Also check your timing map between the idle and 1500,2000 rpm settings and make sure there's not a huge difference so it settles down correctly when coming to a stop. Yes, any addition to the timing upwards on the timing screens relative to "0" which is TDC ignition,is advance before top dead center. So if you adjust timing from 10-15* you advanced timing by 5*, if you adjust timing from 15*-10* you are retarding timing by 5*.Generally the higher the RPM's the more advance you need to a point, because the fuel burn rate is static at a given AFR,while the piston speed changes with RPM and will outrun the burn. Optimal timing for peak torque is usually about 15* ATDC, although you can only find that point exactly with an special sensor which is very expensive, or you have to try and find peak torque on a dyno. Again, the faster the motor spins the earlier it has to start combustion to reach peak torque at 15* ATDC.
 
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Everything he said. You can run a pretty crazy amount of timing at very low vacuum levels like idle. I have had finicky engines need 22 degrees or better at idle to stabilize. Usually 10-15 is normal for idle. I wouldn't flinch at running your motor at 15-18. Also, very rich AFR's tend to help idle as well. 11-13 isn't unheard of. I rarely tuned idle any leaner than about 13.5 even when warmed up because of the stability it provided.

You can buy old pile of crap laptops on ebay for less than 100 bucks a lot of time. Then just get an inverter to plug in to the cigarette lighter (as usually the cheap laptops have bad batteries). Hell i think i have 2 or 3 old laptops I'd sell you one for 50 bucks if you wanted. I just kept one in the car under the passenger seat for making adjustments. A lot more cost effective than the hand tuner in my opinion.
 
That's funny Steve, I did exactly that, bought a 2001 Dell for $125 and the battery died, so I run it off of a Harbor Freight cigarette lighter power inverter, the only problem is, the laptop has to be restarted every time you turn the car off.
I idle warm at about 13.6 AFRS with 17* advance on Integral stage 2.5 cams with adjustable camgears, no problems at all.
 
That's funny Steve, I did exactly that, bought a 2001 Dell for $125 and the battery died, so I run it off of a Harbor Freight cigarette lighter power inverter, the only problem is, the laptop has to be restarted every time you turn the car off.
I idle warm at about 13.6 AFRS with 17* advance on Integral stage 2.5 cams with adjustable camgears, no problems at all.
I was lucky enough to have a laptop that the battery could handle about 2 minutes on it's own... and that was it, but enough to allow restarts when tuning! :)

Warm idle is usually pretty reasonable to settle out and I think my MP3 ran almost identical to you for warm idle, but I didn't do that on customer cars because it was too easy for it to get finicky there because of all the neighboring values (and trying to tune in a limited time for them, with time it is easy to get it stable). I found getting a stable idle with below 40 degree ambients to be tricky at anything over about 12.8 for idle on these engines with big injectors.
 
Right, I'm running 440's just to make sure I don't max out open time at 7000 RPM on my NA motor and the bigger injectors idle fine.
 
Thanks a bunch for all the input guys. As long as the old laptop works I would definitely take you up on that offer Steve. Pm me with your PayPal and a price shipped to postal t7x 1r9.
 
Whatever happened with your other TPS issue?


Thanks a bunch for all the input guys. As long as the old laptop works I would definitely take you up on that offer Steve. Pm me with your PayPal and a price shipped to postal t7x 1r9.
 
I have been having issues the last two winters with cold starts. I made some timing adjustments this last year and made some head way but if it gets too far below freezing the car still has a hard time. I'm going to be looking for some tips if anyone's willing to help.

Thanks in advance all!
 
Whatever happened with your other TPS issue?

I put my original throttle body back on. I had swapped it with the manifold I did VTCS/vics delete. The tps now does quite well. It's just the hunting issue I have to fix. My car has been down at my dads place while we are getting ready to move so I haven't worked on it in quite a while.

I'm actually excited to start tuning again because ive now got a fast reacting, thread in style iat sensor (thanks to some rx7 friends on other boards) to do some way better tuning according to ACTUAL air temps instead of crappy heat soaked, from the filter readings. I'm going to install it in the charge pipe right before the throttle plate so I get accurate readings. With the multimeter hooked to this sensor I watch the resistance change with just breathing on it so it should be like night and day difference with my air temp corrections now. I tested it with some different temp water according to the calibration checks in the FSM and they are spot on. I'll post up some more after our move at the end of August with a couple pics of the sensor.
 
I have been having issues the last two winters with cold starts. I made some timing adjustments this last year and made some head way but if it gets too far below freezing the car still has a hard time. I'm going to be looking for some tips if anyone's willing to help.

Thanks in advance all!
Air temp sensor would be the first port of call - you need to put more fuel in when the air temp is low so modify your air correction maps. For a smooth idle I run mine quite rich and ply the idle maps with a crap tonne of timing to promote stronger vac signals.
 
Hunting, acts like it isn't getting enough fuel, rpm drops hits crank map and then rpms come back up repeatedly.
 
Vacuum leak? Do the afr's fluctuates in a big range from 14.5 throught the 13s ? Crank map is only for crank fuel when the engines trying to start so I don't know what you mean?
 
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Mine does the same thing, Alamo. I even brought mine to a Microtech tuner, and he couldn't fix it. Mine is an earlier model LT-8 though, and most likely is running batch fire ignition.
 
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