JBR rear sway bar

Total noob question but where do I find a Mazda Speed 3 Rear sway bar? Is there a part number? Where is the cheapest place to buy it?

I have a 2010 Mazda 5. I replaced the rear shocks with KYB myself and added an SPC camber kit (inner tire wear). I hear a scraping, grinding sound coming from the right rear tire (which is the same location of the blown rear shock) when I go over bumps. I was going to check and replace the bushings and the links and thought I might take advantage of this and replace the rear sway bar at the same time.
 
You usually find someone with a Mazdaspeed 3 that's upgraded their bar or is parting out their car.
 
You usually find someone with a Mazdaspeed 3 that's upgraded their bar or is parting out their car.

That's how i got my MS3 sways. Front and rear for 100. I bought all new oem bushings, brackets, and rear links too.

Also, anybody trying to install the rear MS3 sway, the threaded stud of the rear end links are larger where they connect to the sway. This means you can't reuse the Mz5's oem nut. I didn't know this so i've got'em on order as the new end links don't come with the nuts. I suppose you can stick with the smaller Mz5 end link but then you have the potential for some play at the connection point. And there's also gotta be a good reason the engineers saw fit to use a thicker end link for the thicker sway...
 
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That's how i got my MS3 sways. Front and rear for 100. I bought all new oem bushings, brackets, and rear links too.

Also, anybody trying to install the rear MS3 sway, the threaded stud of the rear end links are larger where they connect to the sway. This means you can't reuse the Mz5's oem nut. I didn't know this so i've got'em on order as the new end links don't come with the nuts. I suppose you can stick with the smaller Mz5 end link but then you have the potential for some play at the connection point. And there's also gotta be a good reason the engineers saw fit to use a thicker end link for the thicker sway...

So what year of the MS3 sway bars fit a 2010 Mazda 5? Would you mind posting part number of this nut? Do you order from dealer?
 
2007-2013 MS3 RSB would fit.
2010-2013 might need to knock the lateral clip about 3/8-1/2" toward the center. I use crescent wrench and then tap it from the side using hammer to move the clip.
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I bought mine complete with the end link so it have proper 12mm stud end link. I would suggest using proper size end link since that extra 2mm clearance would cause more problem down the road.
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This stud is 12 mm while the one that goes to subframe stays the same 10mm as regular Mazda3 & Mazda5.
 
So what year of the MS3 sway bars fit a 2010 Mazda 5? Would you mind posting part number of this nut? Do you order from dealer?

part number is 999401211. But I've learned that the same exact part can go by multiple part numbers. Even part numbers for things i got directly from the dealer show up online differently...Just use the link below and you'll be fine.

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...odel=14356&modelYear=2009&ukey_category=20286


And Premacy is spot on btw. I didn't want to bang the clips so i waited for an gen1 set to pop up. I would assume a gen2 MS3 sway would fit a gen2 Mz5 without any modification. Either way, it's an easy mod.
 
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Thanks guys. I may have found one but it was on a car with quite a bit of miles (~111,000MILES). Is this considered too much mileage for a rear sway bar? It comes with end links but those might have to be changed.
 
Sway bars are not typically wear and tear items and should outlast the life of the car. If anything, age exposed to harsh environment is a bigger factor. Isolated to the rear RSB, it works as well as the weakest link: RSB, bushing, bracket, end-link. The stock 1st gen OEM MS3 bushing brackets are the same as the Mz5, you just need MS3 OEM bushings. While they have been revised in design, I am still suspect on the material quality, which ultimately is what leads to squeaking/squealing. However, I do not have exp. with the revised bushings to be sure.

If you are eyeing the MS3 RSB, I highly recommend pairing it with Prothane bushings and Moog end-links to go along with the bang for your buck theme. The Prothane brackets are MUCH wider to provide more grip on the bar. You can remove the stock collars, which are crimp on for 1st gen. Moogs are almost twice as thick as stockers. Also, use a good quality grease like Superlube -or similar. So far these poly bushing are not stiff and it is still noise free for me but it has only been a few months. The stocker FSB are another story… Have to address that come spring.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Mazda5-today&p=6184670&viewfull=1#post6184670
Google MS3 + keyword to find part number.
 
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Hey all; I'll offer my two cents and ask about your experience.

I put in the JBR RSB about two years ago, as well as Koni FSDs and a front sway bar. I don't have the expertise to weigh in on the finer points of suspension tuning, but I like the feel of the car much more than the stock setup - especially after having a reputable shop do a much needed alignment. The poly bushings can be a bit squeaky; I notice it more when the weather changes and it seems to have lessened as they've broken in. I just grease them every so often.

I've been satisfied with the setup when I'm not having other issues. I snapped a rear end-link this summer, so I replaced both. Hopefully that isn't a regular occurrence. I figure that's not unreasonable for 100k and the added stress of the new RSB. But, maybe I should try the Mazda3 end links.

Within the last two months, both of the RSB brackets have failed. Fortunately, I had a spare set, so I was able to replace them quickly. But I am wondering if anyone else has had an issue with the JBR RSB brackets. I'm pretty sure they are from Energy Suspension. Maybe it was from a bad batch or maybe my driving conditions are unusually hard on them. I'm not racing or off-roading, but my daily driving puts me regularly over some uneven driveways and bumps that I imagine put a lot of torque on the suspension. Not to mention that the Mazda5 weighs a bit more than the Mazda3. Do I just expect to replace the brackets every year or two? Does anyone know of a source for a beefier bracket with grease fitting? Should I find a metal fab shop and have special brackets made?

Tell me about your experience and what you think...
 
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I put in the JBR RSB about two years ago, ..... both of the RSB brackets have failed. Fortunately, I had a spare set, so I was able to replace them quickly. But I am wondering if anyone else has had an issue with the JBR RSB brackets.

Not the JBR brackets but I did have the same issue with the original Tri-Point brackets. When I first ordered the bar from them it came with the same Energy Suspension bushing and bracket kit that I think JBR uses. They were broke within about two months. They have since upgraded them. See the thread below to see if yours broke in a similar fashion. You can probably order a set of the updated brackets from Tri-Point. They are BEEFY...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123802099-Snapped-RSB-bracket
 
See the thread below to see if yours broke in a similar fashion. You can probably order a set of the updated brackets from Tri-Point. They are BEEFY...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123802099-Snapped-RSB-bracket

Yup, that's what mine look like. Thanks a bunch for the reply. I sent an email to JBR, but I'm going to look into the Tri-Point brackets. It might be simpler to just order those.

Also, was looking around and came across these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) Kind of pricy, but if I couldn't find anything else...
 
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Just got this response from Tri-Point:

Our heavy duty Brackets and Urethane bushings are $47.00 for the set. Shipping is $10-15
Parts are in stock.
 
Not the JBR brackets but I did have the same issue with the original Tri-Point brackets. When I first ordered the bar from them it came with the same Energy Suspension bushing and bracket kit that I think JBR uses. They were broke within about two months. They have since upgraded them. See the thread below to see if yours broke in a similar fashion. You can probably order a set of the updated brackets from Tri-Point. They are BEEFY...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123802099-Snapped-RSB-bracket
Wow, that looks bad! Which setting did you set the bar too? Also, did you happen to align your brackets the same way the poster did -pushing it all the way up?

Those Tri-Point/JBR brackets look like, and I suspect are identical to, the Prothane brackets. I too notice they are not nearly as thick and beefy as the OE brackets. I've had mine on for ~8K miles / 7 months. No maintenance yet (knock on wood) BUT I'm only on a MS3 bar so it's not as stiff as the Tri-Point/JBR. Also, I'm not sure if this matters, when securing I also notice there is some play in that that the bracket can be secured/aligned toward the top, middle, or bottom of the bar -slightly. I kept it in the middle. Also, did you tighten the brackets with the rear end pre-loaded or was it on jack stands? I tighten them when pre-loaded. I wonder if this made a difference. I will have to keep an eye on it.
 
I had them originally installed at a shop when I had both the front and rear bars put in - they were aligned in the middle. I don't know, but I assume they did it with the car on the rack. I had the shop set them in the middle position. I did set them to the stiffer position later - that was when the end link failed. When I remove/reinstall them for the busted end link before the brackets failed and later when replacing failed brackets - I did it with the car on ramps and always tried to center the brackets. No idea if pre-loading or not made any difference.

Now I get to decide if greasable bushings is worth a $40 premium. I think that when the squeakies set in, I'd be willing to pay $40 to make it stop with a squirt of grease. Does anyone see a problem with the aluminum Hotchkis brackets? I know aluminum fails abruptly while steel is supposed to deform before failing. But frankly, I wasn't watching the old brackets and while they may have deformed some before failing, my experience was that the failure was abrupt and accompanied by a loud ping.
 
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I really like my JBR rear sway bar. I installed it last June on the middle setting (718 lb/in vs. the stock 230) and I haven't changed it. I did replace the stock end links with greaseable Moog units after 4-5 months. I'm not planning to add a stiffer front sway bar but I would like to install new synthetic bushings on my front bar. Anyone know offhand the Mazda5 front sway bar diameter?
 
Got a response from JBR:

Bracket failure is very uncommon but it does happen. We are going to be releasing an updated billet bracket in the next 5-6 weeks. Sorry for the inconvenience.

In the meantime, I've ordered the Hotchkis brackets. Should arrive tomorrow.
 
The OEM 10+ MazdaSpeed3 RSB bushing bracket are very beefy. I need to look closer if they will fit aftermarket bushing or have use OEM style bushing.
 
I installed the JBR RSB at 36001 miles on my 2012, along with a host of other upgrades. I've had it set on the middle setting and it really helps plant the car. I'm at about 71000 now and the only issue I've had is in the snow it breaks loose WAY to easily. I've bought about just disconnecting it but I typically just drive something else on those days.
 
That's how i got my MS3 sways. Front and rear for 100. I bought all new oem bushings, brackets, and rear links too.

Also, anybody trying to install the rear MS3 sway, the threaded stud of the rear end links are larger where they connect to the sway. This means you can't reuse the Mz5's oem nut. I didn't know this so i've got'em on order as the new end links don't come with the nuts. I suppose you can stick with the smaller Mz5 end link but then you have the potential for some play at the connection point. And there's also gotta be a good reason the engineers saw fit to use a thicker end link for the thicker sway...

Mine came with the end links and nuts- otherwise I would have just made my own links.

2007-2013 MS3 RSB would fit.
2010-2013 might need to knock the lateral clip about 3/8-1/2" toward the center. I use crescent wrench and then tap it from the side using hammer to move the clip.

I just cut mine off. No issues.
 
Mine came with the end links and nuts- otherwise I would have just made my own links.

I just cut mine off. No issues.

Really?! Then make me some links. Pink please (glare)

Idk about cutting those collars...From a purely theoretical standpoint, wouldn't the lack of the collars allow the bar a slight lateral movement under load, stressing the end links a little more? I mean, I'm sure it would take awhile to manifest itself but it stands to reason that your links would fail sooner than if the collars were still there.
 
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