Turning price is usually $15-20 per rotor, but include labour, tax, shop supplies etc and after being talked into new pads to match up with the freshly turned rotors, you cannto get out without leaving behind at least a couple hundred bucks.(sadbanana)
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Intermittent brake pedal vibration
- Thread starter doctorz
- Start date
Turning price is usually $15-20 per rotor, but include labour, tax, shop supplies etc and after being talked into new pads to match up with the freshly turned rotors, you cannto get out without leaving behind at least a couple hundred bucks.(sadbanana)
Turning price is usually $15-20 per rotor, but include labour, tax, shop supplies etc and after being talked into new pads to match up with the freshly turned rotors, you cannto get out without leaving behind at least a couple hundred bucks.(sadbanana)
Yep, which let's say for hypothetical purposes that the cost is half that. Go through that process twice and you have paid off a set of EBC rotors with OEM pads. I can't speak for anyone else, but the time I spend at the dealership, shop, garage, etc. dealing with turning rotors costs me, at my hourly wage, a lot of money on top of car parts/labor. That's why warranty repairs are still costly and a PITA for me, and everyone I assume.
I haven't had rotors turned in like 20 years. think about it: if a rotor is 'warped', by turning it, you now have areas which are thinner since you are shaving off the high spots. this inconsistency will cause them to warp again, sooner.
much so-called warping is actually glazing. I've been able to install new pads on old rotors and all I did was hit the rotor w/ some scotch brite and bed the pads in properly.
much so-called warping is actually glazing. I've been able to install new pads on old rotors and all I did was hit the rotor w/ some scotch brite and bed the pads in properly.
I haven't had rotors turned in like 20 years. think about it: if a rotor is 'warped', by turning it, you now have areas which are thinner since you are shaving off the high spots. this inconsistency will cause them to warp again, sooner.
much so-called warping is actually glazing. I've been able to install new pads on old rotors and all I did was hit the rotor w/ some scotch brite and bed the pads in properly.
YES. I agree. Something about the way pads, or maybe even rotors, are being made is making the rotors get glazed very easily. You can sand the glaze off with a very smooth sand paper. This reminds me of tires. Tires are being made with more and more plastic and less rubber to make them last longer, which sucks if you just want good tires. I think pads are being made to last forever, not provide excellent, comfortable braking that doesn't ruin rotors.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
Sounds logical what you describe, but my experience doesn't confirm the same. I don't know how often you guys have to replace your brakes, but mine last 60-100k easily. If turning were the only reason that rotors wear down, then I'd agree. But I've had worse luck in the past with semi-metallic pads eating away my rotors long before turning then does harm.
Like I said, 212k on original rotors that have only been turned. You can do whatever you want, but whenever it comes time with this vehicle, if turning rotors gets me half the mileage as new, then I'm ahead. BTW, ceramic is now the only pads I use.
Like I said, 212k on original rotors that have only been turned. You can do whatever you want, but whenever it comes time with this vehicle, if turning rotors gets me half the mileage as new, then I'm ahead. BTW, ceramic is now the only pads I use.
Sounds logical what you describe, but my experience doesn't confirm the same. I don't know how often you guys have to replace your brakes, but mine last 60-100k easily. If turning were the only reason that rotors wear down, then I'd agree. But I've had worse luck in the past with semi-metallic pads eating away my rotors long before turning then does harm.
Like I said, 212k on original rotors that have only been turned. You can do whatever you want, but whenever it comes time with this vehicle, if turning rotors gets me half the mileage as new, then I'm ahead. BTW, ceramic is now the only pads I use.
So did you get 212K by using ceramics, or did you switch at some point after the rotors were new? Just curious because I find your comment about ceramics to be very interesting. My old MX3 has ceramics and they're really soft. I like them.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
I switched to ceramic at my second brake job. Don't remember the mileage, but was well over 100k+. The gouging was evident from the semi-metallic, but there was enough material left for turning. I was told by the parts guy that the metallic in the semi-metallic always cause gouging. Could have been a sales ploy to buy the more expensive ceramics, but I can tell you that they have lasted longer and shown much less wear on the rotors.
I switched to ceramic at my second brake job. Don't remember the mileage, but was well over 100k+. The gouging was evident from the semi-metallic, but there was enough material left for turning. I was told by the parts guy that the metallic in the semi-metallic always cause gouging. Could have been a sales ploy to buy the more expensive ceramics, but I can tell you that they have lasted longer and shown much less wear on the rotors.
I think the sales guy's comment sounds valid. I hadn't even thought about the ceramics not wearing the rotor as quickly. My favorite feature of ceramics is how soft the brake's engagement feels. I don't mean mushy either. It just feels like a more expensive braking system, and is a little bit I guess. One thing I've always heard though is that because ceramics do not absorb heat well, the heat from the braking friction is diverted to the rotor mainly and that rotors can last less than with metallic. Just what I've heard.
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#
I've had my front rotors turned 3x in 50k miles. After 3 turnings, they are still legal thickness. But like posters above have said, they probably warp easier once turned.
I don't tailgate, drive aggressively or use my brakes hard, but they seem to warp easy.
I don't tailgate, drive aggressively or use my brakes hard, but they seem to warp easy.
Ok, here's my story of woe...
I finally had to replace the front pads around 95,000 miles. Since I didn't want to do it myself I took the 5 to the local shop that advertises tires and brakes. They quoted what I thought to be a bit high but promised they could do it in an hour max. Two and a half hours later I drove off...
I bedded in the pads well but still got some bad vibration so I took the car back. They claimed they would fix it quickly. Two hours later...
I drove off with little noticeable improvement. Sigh. I decided not to go back as I figured if they couldn't get it right with two tries then they were never going to get it right. I drove that way for a month or so until I finally had time to change the rotors this weekend. I checked the inventory of the local parts house and they claimed (foreshadowing) that they had the rotors in stock...
So I removed the two front rotors and borrowed the wife's car to go pick up the rotors. I brought them home - you guessed it - they were not right. Not even close. I took them back. As a side note, is it just me, or is the WORST customer service in the universe universally found at auto parts stores?
Anyway, I finally found a set about 30 miles away. I went and got them and installed them on the car. I lowered the car, jumped in, started the car, and put it in reverse...
Now I have to be fair, what happened next cannot be blamed on the first shop's incompetence. Every brake job I've ever done, one or two stabs at the brake pedal and the calipers and pads seat nicely. Not this time. The car was rolling quite nicely in reverse as I was stabbing the pedal, then frantically pulling the parking brake. Too late, I backed right into my boat. As anyone who owns a boat will attest, I was relieved when I discovered the boat was ok. I was sad when I discovered that I broke a tail light. But still relieved that the boat was ok.
So, the bad work at the shop cost me their price, the price of new rotors, and now the price of a LH taillight, plus a half a day of my priceless time. All due to a chain of events that started at a lame shop.
Lesson to be learned - if you want it done right, do it yourself. The car stops beautifully with no shimmy at all now.
Sigh.
I finally had to replace the front pads around 95,000 miles. Since I didn't want to do it myself I took the 5 to the local shop that advertises tires and brakes. They quoted what I thought to be a bit high but promised they could do it in an hour max. Two and a half hours later I drove off...
I bedded in the pads well but still got some bad vibration so I took the car back. They claimed they would fix it quickly. Two hours later...
I drove off with little noticeable improvement. Sigh. I decided not to go back as I figured if they couldn't get it right with two tries then they were never going to get it right. I drove that way for a month or so until I finally had time to change the rotors this weekend. I checked the inventory of the local parts house and they claimed (foreshadowing) that they had the rotors in stock...
So I removed the two front rotors and borrowed the wife's car to go pick up the rotors. I brought them home - you guessed it - they were not right. Not even close. I took them back. As a side note, is it just me, or is the WORST customer service in the universe universally found at auto parts stores?
Anyway, I finally found a set about 30 miles away. I went and got them and installed them on the car. I lowered the car, jumped in, started the car, and put it in reverse...
Now I have to be fair, what happened next cannot be blamed on the first shop's incompetence. Every brake job I've ever done, one or two stabs at the brake pedal and the calipers and pads seat nicely. Not this time. The car was rolling quite nicely in reverse as I was stabbing the pedal, then frantically pulling the parking brake. Too late, I backed right into my boat. As anyone who owns a boat will attest, I was relieved when I discovered the boat was ok. I was sad when I discovered that I broke a tail light. But still relieved that the boat was ok.
So, the bad work at the shop cost me their price, the price of new rotors, and now the price of a LH taillight, plus a half a day of my priceless time. All due to a chain of events that started at a lame shop.
Lesson to be learned - if you want it done right, do it yourself. The car stops beautifully with no shimmy at all now.
Sigh.
Jeff@Tri-Point
Member
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#
This link has good info, a good way to prevent brake vibration is to go with a high operating temp pad like the Stoptech Street Performance or Hawk HPS.
Now I have to be fair, what happened next cannot be blamed on the first shop's incompetence. Every brake job I've ever done, one or two stabs at the brake pedal and the calipers and pads seat nicely. Not this time. The car was rolling quite nicely in reverse as I was stabbing the pedal, then frantically pulling the parking brake. Too late, I backed right into my boat. As anyone who owns a boat will attest, I was relieved when I discovered the boat was ok. I was sad when I discovered that I broke a tail light. But still relieved that the boat was ok.
Always remember to pump the pistons back into place before moving the vehicle. Years ago while apprenticing I backed into a ditch. Kinda embarrasing as I knew better but was in a hurry to impress the boss! Turning the rotors will get rid of the vibration problem. Also when possible, try to avoid using the park brake with hot rotors as this can distort the rear rotors.
Always remember to pump the pistons back into place before moving the vehicle. Years ago while apprenticing I backed into a ditch. Kinda embarrasing as I knew better but was in a hurry to impress the boss! Turning the rotors will get rid of the vibration problem. Also when possible, try to avoid using the park brake with hot rotors as this can distort the rear rotors.
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