How To: Mazda FS-DE Camshaft Installation

[MikeBlueP5]

the s/c 5.4, the 351/5.8 wouldnt be a problem to get into a ranger as it is essentially the same size as a 302 on the outside. The only difference is its a little taller and a little wider. Hell you can even use 302 heads on a 351 you just have to drill the head bolt holes a little larger.

 

[Laser03pro]

So you can install cams and not have to do nething to the computer ??

 

[twilightprotege]

you certainly can...but resetting it is a minimum requirement.

swapping out to an aftermarket as always will give the greatest result...

 

[Laser03pro]

Not to be off topic but do u think bypassin the TB helped twilight. I know its pretty easy on camaro's but ill have to check it out.Would it hurt anything in the winter.

 

[twilightprotege]

i dont think it has done anything, but every little bit helps. it is easy to do. i wouldnt do it if in your area it gets below freezing in winter

 

[vielster]

So we don't have to adjust the lash or anything? They just pop in and that's it?

 

[twilightprotege]

they do just pop in if the base circle is the same as stock - ie 1.380".

but it is always wise to check

 

[MikeBlueP5]

correct, even with the same base circle you should always check the lash just to make sure its still within specs. I believe the manual calls for check/adjustment (via shims) evey 60k miles or so. I dont really remember without looking. I did check mine after my cam install. I might recheck them when i pull my valve cover to paint it. I would like to have .009" myself. I think most of mine were .010 or .011 when i checked them. not like .001" gonna really matter though, but itll help with noise.

 

[Rism]

When I did both intake and exhaust cams I didn't find it neccesary to remove all the other belts or the mount. I didn't remove the timing belt either, or the crank pulley. We removed the cam gear cover, lossened up the tensioner slid the belt right off. Making sure it was at TDC. Then we slid the belt right back on. So I guess there are a couple was of doing it.

Nice How to. Well done

Yea I dont really see why all that extra work is necessary to remove camshafts. Anyone care to explain?

 

[twilightprotege]

i found it just was easier. you dont need to take the belts off really, you can leave them hanging over the engine mounts (which is what i've done since), but it all depends on how good of a mechanic you are. the how-to i wrote is really a beginner's way of doing it.

although, i still think removing the crank pulley is the way to go otherwise you can never be 100% sure you have the crank and cam gears aligned - ie what if the belt isnt toothed up properly at the crank?

 

[MikeBlueP5]

yup twilight is right on that one. I thought i had everything lined up till i checked the crank pulley it was about 2 teeth off. Its always a good idea to take the cover off and make sure you get it all right on the first try than to have it off by two teeth and have to redo it. And any slack at all at the bottom of the belt will throw it off during reassembly unless you are watching it. I tried the easy way of just sliding it off and back on and as soon as i pulled it off the cam pulley the tensioner pulled the slack so i said F it ill do it the right way.

 

[Kansei]

yup twilight is right on that one. I thought i had everything lined up till i checked the crank pulley it was about 2 teeth off. Its always a good idea to take the cover off and make sure you get it all right on the first try than to have it off by two teeth and have to redo it. And any slack at all at the bottom of the belt will throw it off during reassembly unless you are watching it. I tried the easy way of just sliding it off and back on and as soon as i pulled it off the cam pulley the tensioner pulled the slack so i said F it ill do it the right way.

Argh.. spend 150 dollars on an electric impact wrench (I don't have an impact wrench with me at college) or try it without removing the crank pulley. hmm.

The other problem is I can't remove any of the wheels on my car because my wheel lock key is broken so I can't get anywhere near the crank pulley

Damnit I don't want to wait until thanksgiving break, I'll have to do it in the cold, laying in a gravel driveway instead of my heated garage in NY

 

[MikeBlueP5]

others have used another method described somewhere else in this thread. all you really need is to get the passenger wheel off, then you can use a long breaker bar and just hit the starter one time with the breaker bar on the ground it should break the bolt loose. I wouldnt reccomend this method. I would use an impact, might i add it needs to be a pretty strong one, or go buy the service tool from mazda. all it is is a tool with a hole in the middle and two that line up with it that bolt to the crank pulley, works kinda like a lever action. I tried to make one out of wood, but that didnt go over too well, i ended up paying 350$ for a compressor and air tools.

 

[Kansei]

others have used another method described somewhere else in this thread. all you really need is to get the passenger wheel off, then you can use a long breaker bar and just hit the starter one time with the breaker bar on the ground it should break the bolt loose. I wouldnt reccomend this method. I would use an impact, might i add it needs to be a pretty strong one, or go buy the service tool from mazda. all it is is a tool with a hole in the middle and two that line up with it that bolt to the crank pulley, works kinda like a lever action. I tried to make one out of wood, but that didnt go over too well, i ended up paying 350$ for a compressor and air tools.

When I installed my underdrive pulley I did it with an electric impact wrench, but I don't have access to that at school. Reading through this thread, it looks like some people have done the cam install without removing the crank pulley. Wouldn't it just be a matter of making sure the belt stays tight on the crank pulley so that it doesn't skip any teeth on the belt?

 

[MikeBlueP5]

yeah you can do that, but you also have to make sure the crank stays on the timing mark, its particularly hard to do when youre putting the belt back on the cam pulleys. I mean its doable because thats what i was going to originally do, but when i took the stock cam pulleys off the tensioner sucked all the slack out of the belt, so then i had to take the timing belt cover off to get to it and loosen it back up, and the only way to get it loosened is to remove the belt cover and it goes behind the crank pulley. all in all if youre lucky, good and take youre time, i dont see why it cant be done this way, just double and triple check all the timing marks the first time.

 

[Kansei]

yeah you can do that, but you also have to make sure the crank stays on the timing mark, its particularly hard to do when youre putting the belt back on the cam pulleys. I mean its doable because thats what i was going to originally do, but when i took the stock cam pulleys off the tensioner sucked all the slack out of the belt, so then i had to take the timing belt cover off to get to it and loosen it back up, and the only way to get it loosened is to remove the belt cover and it goes behind the crank pulley. all in all if youre lucky, good and take youre time, i dont see why it cant be done this way, just double and triple check all the timing marks the first time.

Yeah damn. stupid tensioner

I guess I have to go get an electric impact wrench from Sears or something. The new cam is in, the I is still pointing towards the E, but I can't get at the adjuster for the tensioner because of the lower cover. I really hope the impact wrench can fit in the space with the wheel turned all the way to the right, because I can't get that wheel off since the key didn't come today.

 

[MikeBlueP5]

if not, just get an extension and a swivel if you have to. but yeah thats the only way to get to the tensioner, you will also need an allen wrench to work it. Cant remember what size.

 

[Kansei]

if not, just get an extension and a swivel if you have to. but yeah thats the only way to get to the tensioner, you will also need an allen wrench to work it. Cant remember what size.

So there is no way to get the plastic cover off without removing the crank pulley, correct?

I wish I knew someone up here who had an impact wrench, or a place where I could rent one (if such a place even exists). This is the only bolt on the car I've ever needed an impact wrench for, so it seems crappy to pay so much to do it.

*crosses fingers* I hope Sears has the Makita half inch drive electric (corded) impact wrench in stock.

Edit: I'm considering getting in there and breaking the plastic cover off, and then when I am back home over thanksgiving break buy a new cover and use my dad's impact wrench to install it nicely.

 

[ahb11m]

Zverg - yes thats absoloutley correct

 

[MikeBlueP5]

yup cant get to it to without taking off the pulley if my memory serves me correct. good luck though, let us know what you end up doing.