Boston5761
Member
- :
- 03' Familia
anyone even do this while cleaning theirs?
How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
Took the EGR off about five minutes ago which was easy but the four screws that attached the the two pieces together was not. Three of the screws were rusted so bad that they can no longer be called screws. I managed to get one screw loose but the other three will not budge and will get stripped even worse if I continue to force them out.
Basically what I am wondering if we can order just the screws...anybody know? Although I suppose I could just drill them out and re-thread the holes..
Basically what I am wondering if we can order just the screws...anybody know? Although I suppose I could just drill them out and re-thread the holes..
Laser Blue
Member
- :
- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
I had the same problem. I used an EZ-Out to remove the screws and bought new ones at Home Depot. The screws aren't that specialized. Just use your one good one for reference and buy new ones the same size. 50 cents max...
Laser Blue
Member
- :
- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
It helps if you read this thread.... lots of folks have the problem. Soak them with PB Blaster and then, if the heads strip out, remove them with an EZ-Out and replace them after cleaning when you re-assemble the EGR.
Boston5761
Member
- :
- 03' Familia
anyone measure pin resistance?
Boston5761
Member
- :
- 03' Familia
which way does the gasket go
EGR, Idle Solenoid and Intake bellows
Isn't the internet a wonderful resource? Thanks to this thread I was able to get my 2002 Protege LX running much better. It started running rough at idle, cutting off while sitting at stop lights, slow accelerator response and the gas pedal was kinda sticking when I wanted to go.
I read every post in this thread, went to AutoZone and bought the recommended tools (plus a couple just because)... The 3/8" and 1/4" drive flexhead ratchet were knuckle savers. Fortunately I had a T25 Security bit because I didn't find one of those at AZ. I put the car in the garage Friday eve, turned the heater on and started prepping the car for a Service Saturday.
I removed the intake/throttle body hose/tube/bellows thingy and found that it was dry rotted and cracked. Someone posted on this thread that those things are hard to find... and they rigged it with silicone and duct tape. I gobbed the black silicone adhesive/sealant around the ribs on the tube and let it dry overnight. For added measure I wrapped some plastic wrap and then duct tape. Then I took the battery out and cleared the path to see what I was up against. I sprayed the bolts and screws with the PB Blaster to soak overnight.
The bolts on the EGR came out with little problem. I put it in the vise, soaked the screws with more PB Blaster and wire brushed the gunk out of the screw heads. I used a good quality screw driver (#2) and slowly broke each one loose. Only one came close to stripping. Just soaked it a little more and used a lot of pressure while unscrewing... and it broke loose. Whew... don't need to worry about fixing that. The plunger moved up and down but stuck a little in places... so I soaked it in throttle body cleaner got a new flux brush out and cleaned the inards. I used a little engine oil (synthetic) to lube the shaft.
I took the Idle solenoid off and cleaned and lightly lubed it, That didn't look too bad... and didn't seem to be sticking.
The throttle was sticking closed because of carbon build up around the butterfly. So... in a moment of genius, I put the red spray hose on the can of throttle body cleaner, propped the butterfly open with a scrap of wood, and started spraying. Then I heard a pfftt and... s***... where the damn red hose thingy go. Yep... right down into the intake manifold. I tried my grabber thingy.. no go. Tried my vacuum cleaner only to see it disappear deeper into the bowels of the intake manifold... crap.... I could no longer see it. I had to rig a flexible attachment to the vacuum and after lots of cussing and 45 minutes got the damn red hose thingy out. Then I proceeded to finish cleaning the throttle body with cleaner and a wire brush (and no red hose thingy this time). Excellent... no more stickiness.
I put the EGR back in from the underside of the car. Seemed to be more working room at that angle. Then put the rest of the crap back together cleaning and lubricating as I went. I changed the oil and filter since it was on jack stands already. I took it for a test drive and (knock on wood) she runs a lot better.
I was thinking it's about time to get a new car because after 294K miles she might be done. After seeing the prices of new cars and fretting about paying $400-$600 monthly payment (and be well out of warranty by the time it's paid for) I figured I could bust a few knuckles and get plenty of band-aids and neosporin for that money. I'd like to see her get another 100K... so time will tell.
It took me about 8 hours because I'm getting old and have learned to take my time and do it right, eat when I'm supposed to, let the dogs out, do a little work on the computer and take several coffee breaks. I don't bust as many knuckles when I take my time. So for me it was well worth taking the time to read each post, get the right tools.
Thank you all that posted the pics and how to'.
Isn't the internet a wonderful resource? Thanks to this thread I was able to get my 2002 Protege LX running much better. It started running rough at idle, cutting off while sitting at stop lights, slow accelerator response and the gas pedal was kinda sticking when I wanted to go.
I read every post in this thread, went to AutoZone and bought the recommended tools (plus a couple just because)... The 3/8" and 1/4" drive flexhead ratchet were knuckle savers. Fortunately I had a T25 Security bit because I didn't find one of those at AZ. I put the car in the garage Friday eve, turned the heater on and started prepping the car for a Service Saturday.
I removed the intake/throttle body hose/tube/bellows thingy and found that it was dry rotted and cracked. Someone posted on this thread that those things are hard to find... and they rigged it with silicone and duct tape. I gobbed the black silicone adhesive/sealant around the ribs on the tube and let it dry overnight. For added measure I wrapped some plastic wrap and then duct tape. Then I took the battery out and cleared the path to see what I was up against. I sprayed the bolts and screws with the PB Blaster to soak overnight.
The bolts on the EGR came out with little problem. I put it in the vise, soaked the screws with more PB Blaster and wire brushed the gunk out of the screw heads. I used a good quality screw driver (#2) and slowly broke each one loose. Only one came close to stripping. Just soaked it a little more and used a lot of pressure while unscrewing... and it broke loose. Whew... don't need to worry about fixing that. The plunger moved up and down but stuck a little in places... so I soaked it in throttle body cleaner got a new flux brush out and cleaned the inards. I used a little engine oil (synthetic) to lube the shaft.
I took the Idle solenoid off and cleaned and lightly lubed it, That didn't look too bad... and didn't seem to be sticking.
The throttle was sticking closed because of carbon build up around the butterfly. So... in a moment of genius, I put the red spray hose on the can of throttle body cleaner, propped the butterfly open with a scrap of wood, and started spraying. Then I heard a pfftt and... s***... where the damn red hose thingy go. Yep... right down into the intake manifold. I tried my grabber thingy.. no go. Tried my vacuum cleaner only to see it disappear deeper into the bowels of the intake manifold... crap.... I could no longer see it. I had to rig a flexible attachment to the vacuum and after lots of cussing and 45 minutes got the damn red hose thingy out. Then I proceeded to finish cleaning the throttle body with cleaner and a wire brush (and no red hose thingy this time). Excellent... no more stickiness.
I put the EGR back in from the underside of the car. Seemed to be more working room at that angle. Then put the rest of the crap back together cleaning and lubricating as I went. I changed the oil and filter since it was on jack stands already. I took it for a test drive and (knock on wood) she runs a lot better.
I was thinking it's about time to get a new car because after 294K miles she might be done. After seeing the prices of new cars and fretting about paying $400-$600 monthly payment (and be well out of warranty by the time it's paid for) I figured I could bust a few knuckles and get plenty of band-aids and neosporin for that money. I'd like to see her get another 100K... so time will tell.
It took me about 8 hours because I'm getting old and have learned to take my time and do it right, eat when I'm supposed to, let the dogs out, do a little work on the computer and take several coffee breaks. I don't bust as many knuckles when I take my time. So for me it was well worth taking the time to read each post, get the right tools.
Thank you all that posted the pics and how to'.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
^ - Getting old and still don’t know how to use paragraphs…..? Either way I’m glad it brought new life to your car and everything worked out.
marquezoom
Member
ok, im a noob. I am trying to find this on my '03 p5. Just for clarification, I lift off the intake (black palstic, with hoses going to the airbox, etc.) and I should find this EGR unit? on a side note, where can I find a book/shop manual for this car?
Thnx for any help!
Thnx for any help!
It's inbetween the engine and the firewall basically. I don't remember having to remove anything last time I did it. I just basically just removed the egr valve. It's hard to reach but it only takes about 5 minutes to take off and 5 minutes to put back on once you know what your looking for. This is if you have air tools and a universal joint. If you don't have air tools it could take half hour to hour to remove the bolts depending on your angle and hand size. Same with putting it back on.
marquezoom
Member
Thanx PGF, I found it and it only took me 10 minutes to get it out. The one thing that took me a while longer was getting it back together, forgot how the 2 pieces came apart. but it is in now and I am cleaning my K&N air filter right now. I did a clutch this last weekend on this thing, and afterwards it was running really rough...so hopefully this fixes it.
I have a mazda 6 (2007) 4cyl. as well, that died while turning a corner, could this be the same thing? CEL was on, changed the gas cap, but it never went away. Had to get the autozone folks to let me "erase" the code, but I remember when doing the lookup it talked about a stuck egr valve....
Ok, I'm totally new to all this and my 2003 Protege has had idle issues and I've been wanting to get to this EGR valve forever!!!! Today I mistakenly took out the Throttle Body thinking that was the EGR... I felt like an idiot 3 hours later. So I was able to see the EGR valve much more easily and had a go at it, but the two 12mm bolts wouldn't budge, it was too tight of a area to even have a good pull with the wrench. I see the older gentleman took out his intake and throttle body to get to it, would all that be necessary or just the throttle? I really need some tips on how to budge two 12mm bolts.. they are super tight... and in a weird spot.
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- 99 protege
hey do u know where its located at on 1.6l
Laser Blue
Member
- :
- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
I didn't have to remove the throttle body (and neither did you(shady)) but it did help to remove the battery and battery tray. Made it much easier to get at the bolts (with a small 1/4" drive breaker bar and socket).
Awesome, taking the battery and rack out helped a lot, still had trouble with the two 12mm bolts though. Got it out cleaned it, which is wasnt that bad so I didn't get much end result, but a little better 
Also replaced my rotors, spark plugs, spark plug boots, and spark plug wires while I was at it.
Also replaced my rotors, spark plugs, spark plug boots, and spark plug wires while I was at it.
