How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

Just cleaned the EGR. Wasn't really that dirty, other than being really dry, and needed lubing. Started car, and it seems RPM's were smoother. But then later, after coming to a complete stop, RPM's dipped again.

What do I fix, change, clean next??????? (confused)
 
6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil and also lube the outside beneath the spring.
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I'm sorry but this is got to be the stupidest idea ever. Putting oil on the valve stem? Are you kidding me?? No wonder why you guys have to clean it again shortly after following this how-to. That drop of oil is going to gum the s*** out of the valve stem in no time with the heat that's passing through that valve. A better idea would be to use a graphite or teflon based lube, if anything at all.
 
CrazyCaker said:
Are you asking me? Of course I have. Do you really think I'd comment on something I haven't done before?
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Just curious but what are your results on cleaning it without oiling it? Obviously better by your statement previously but have you had to re-clean it? If so what is the duration you are able to go before having to re-clean it?
 
I had over 60k kms on mine after cleaning it, and it still didn't show any signs of sticking again. But I have since removed the egr altogether due to my MAM Thumper mani not having an egr bung on it.

If you think about it however, it makes perfect sense why putting oil on the valve stem will gum it up again. Over time the oil will break down and it's not being constantly refreshed like oil in your engine is.
 
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CrazyCaker said:
I had over 60k kms on mine after cleaning it, and it still didn't show any signs of sticking again. But I have since removed the egr altogether due to my MAM Thumper mani not having an egr bung on it.

If you think about it however, it makes perfect sense why putting oil on the valve stem will gum it up again. Over time the oil will break down and it's not being constantly refreshed like oil in your engine is.
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It does make perfect sense and should be obvious to. I have to admit It didn't dawn on me tell you pointed it out.

Edit: CrazyCaker you have a PM.
 
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microman777 said:
Just cleaned the EGR. Wasn't really that dirty, other than being really dry, and needed lubing. Started car, and it seems RPM's were smoother. But then later, after coming to a complete stop, RPM's dipped again.

What do I fix, change, clean next??????? (confused)
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Did you unhook the battery?

My P5 always idles funny, acts like its going to die at stops, after I unhook the battery. I was under the impression this was the case with other Protogays as well. Mine usually clears up after about 30 miles...
 
Thats the ecu relearning the car, it gives a bad idle for the first 50mi or so after disconnecting the batt.
 
xDJ DUBx said:
Thats the ecu relearning the car, it gives a bad idle for the first 50mi or so after disconnecting the batt.
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I hope that's the case, as I did take out the battery to be able get the EGR out.

BTW, it was a pain to get to the EGR, and if I didn't have my tiny socket set I would of never been able to get it out! But for the dealer to charge $215 just to clean it made me try my hardest to get at it!
 
^ I'm sure that is what happened, I've disconnected my battery lots in the short 17 months I've owned it for various reasons, ha ha...
 
Man, started my car today, and my engine ran like crap, 100 times worse than before I cleaned the EGR. Seems that it probably is stuck or something.

Guess I'm off to the dealership to pour out my life savings just to fix this dumb protege. Last time I had a nightmare like this was when I owned a Ford. Should of stuck with Toyota. Those cars run forever, maintenance free!!!!!!
 
microman777 said:
Man, started my car today, and my engine ran like crap, 100 times worse than before I cleaned the EGR. Seems that it probably is stuck or something.

Guess I'm off to the dealership to pour out my life savings just to fix this dumb protege. Last time I had a nightmare like this was when I owned a Ford. Should of stuck with Toyota. Those cars run forever, maintenance free!!!!!!
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yep, right tell when they literally rust in two in about 10 years time. Neighbors an avid yota nut and has 3 trucks literally rust in two and he doesnt take it to the ocean and thats in florida! Hate to see what happens when you take them up north.
 
StealthWyvern said:
ouch... 485 is at the tune of a new EGR valve, gasket and installation or did they sock ya for more?
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Nope, none of those. All they are doing is new coils and wires! Can u believe that crap! Labor alone is $213!

I just don't have time to mess with it and miss work! I'll get fired, and need a car BAD
 
You do understand that replacing coils and wires is a 15 minute job, just unplugging one set and plugging in the other? Why not buy the parts and do it yourself, and then send the $215 to me?
 
Laser Blue said:
You do understand that replacing coils and wires is a 15 minute job, just unplugging one set and plugging in the other? Why not buy the parts and do it yourself, and then send the $215 to me?
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Yea, I know how easy it is. I just changed the spark plugs Friday, but its has to do with getting my car up and running. I wanted to make sure they got it fixed right because I missed work Friday to try to get it running. I don't have time to play mechanic like I said earlier. They guarantee the work for 12 months.
 
My main thing now is what if I do it myself, and it still runs like crap! I can't afford to do that anymore, costing me time off my job! Paying $485 now is nothing compared to me loosing my job!
 
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microman777 said:
Yea, I know how easy it is. I just changed the spark plugs Friday, but its has to do with getting my car up and running. I wanted to make sure they got it fixed right because I missed work Friday to try to get it running. I don't have time to play mechanic like I said earlier. They guarantee the work for 12 months.
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That's because the parts usually give out after about 18 months, lol. They fix a "problem" but they don't fix the cause of the problem. So it rears it's head again 18 months later, and boom, they get paid to repair it again. Double anal sex at the dealership...

*O, And CrazyCaker is 100% correct, you really should not oil/lube your EGR after cleaning it... You just cleaned out all the oil/carbon deposits clogging it up and then you put in "lube" just to start the gumming process all over again...
 
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