Got an 07 Speed3. 86,000 miles, runs great except trying to start it when it's lukewarm. Cranks a while before it fires, plus getting CEL off and on. Just put new plugs in. Anyone else run into this? Also, it runs best on Shell gas. Dealer told me about running Shell. Seems to work.
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Hard Starting When Engine Warm
- Thread starter Barney
- Start date
tiagotiago
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
Did you get this checked out?
On my dad's chevy pick up, a dying starter motor was the culprit of the car not wanting to start hot. The conductive properties of an object are affected by higher temps, so maybe the electrical resistance is ok when cold, but when getting hot, it just can't get around to working strongly enough.
On my dad's chevy pick up, a dying starter motor was the culprit of the car not wanting to start hot. The conductive properties of an object are affected by higher temps, so maybe the electrical resistance is ok when cold, but when getting hot, it just can't get around to working strongly enough.
Saskatchewan17
Member
- :
- 2008 TR Mazdaspeed 3
Sounds like kind of a starter issue.
You'd notice trouble with the fuel pump when driving as well as starting so I don't think it's that. Check all your spark connections and whatnot, but again if it drives fine then you wouldn't see an issue. The only other thing I can think of is that your compression is shot, and I dunno about that one, because, (I sound like a broken record) you would notice that otherwise. It's still worth getting a compression test IMO at 86k miles. Just to see what condition the motor is in at that point. Also, are you modded or not? Ever boost the engine at a lower RPM or put it under high load alot in the lower rev range?
You'd notice trouble with the fuel pump when driving as well as starting so I don't think it's that. Check all your spark connections and whatnot, but again if it drives fine then you wouldn't see an issue. The only other thing I can think of is that your compression is shot, and I dunno about that one, because, (I sound like a broken record) you would notice that otherwise. It's still worth getting a compression test IMO at 86k miles. Just to see what condition the motor is in at that point. Also, are you modded or not? Ever boost the engine at a lower RPM or put it under high load alot in the lower rev range?
Darth Vader
Member
Get the code checked out (autozone or buy a cheap OBD2 code reader) and verify your battery condition and connections. The battery being underhood, right next to a turbo, lots of heat related possibilities exist. Things connected well when cold can expand and fail to connect. Using a digital volt ohm meter (under 30 bucks at home cheapo) the battery should display slightly over 12 volts car not running, when warm and, 13-15 volts, engine running. Anything under 12 volts means the battery has a cell down. Check the conditions of the connections as well. Clean, apply dielectric grease (any electronics store) and verify they can tighten. These are basics for any car displaying the described conditions.
Most likely electrical, as indicated above. OP: does the engine turn over more slowly when hot, or does the starter have the same "zing" when you hit it?
What is that CEL code number?
If the turn over speed is the same when hot as when cold and you can't find an electrical or battery problem, then the only other thing that immediately comes to mind is a failed engine temperature sensor. A bad sensor could be still be telling the ECU that the engine is cold. This could result in more fuel being fired into the engine by the injectors than needed when the engine is up to temperature and doing the fuel injection equivalent of "flooding" the engine.
This would be like trying to start a warm lawn mower engine with the choke pulled out. Just a thought.
What is that CEL code number?
If the turn over speed is the same when hot as when cold and you can't find an electrical or battery problem, then the only other thing that immediately comes to mind is a failed engine temperature sensor. A bad sensor could be still be telling the ECU that the engine is cold. This could result in more fuel being fired into the engine by the injectors than needed when the engine is up to temperature and doing the fuel injection equivalent of "flooding" the engine.
This would be like trying to start a warm lawn mower engine with the choke pulled out. Just a thought.
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