According to my gauge (which is a tad off I think) I can only manage about 50 psi from 3000 RPM and up. But like you mentioned earlier this drops down to like 40 psi or lower after extended periods of driving.
.... but at idle, it drops below 10 psi.....
I think most of it is due to the fact I'm running the pressure sensor inline with my oil feed line. You know - moving fluid causes low pressure over orafices and such so that is probably the sourse of a little of my problem. I also don't think the autometer gauge I have (ultra-lite, short sweep) is of very high quality. Not knocking Autometer but I bet if I had the full sweep gauge it'd be better. I do plan on running a sandwich plate in the future with AEM oil pressure and temperature gauges as well as provisions for an oil cooler.WOW! My gauge reads upwards of 70 psi at high RPM.
EEK! With a fully warmed up engine at idle, my pressure gauge reads something like 20 psi.
I have a Greedy sandwich plate adapter and Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges.
I've been eyeing up an Accusump setup for the passed couple of days now.
I'll try to get some better pics of the oil pan and the external adjuster up in the next few days.
Basically, we use an oil filter relocation adapter at the block, oil line from it to the adjuster, then line from the adjuster to the remote oil filter and another line from the remote oil filter back to the relocation adapter at the block. There is another line that is plumbed from the external adjuster into the pan that is the new bypass.
Flow is most important here. You can use the cheap relocation adapters and remote oil filter housings but they will decrease the efficiency of the system.
If you need more detail to determine legality with SCCA let me know....
I know the benefits of having an externally relocated oil filter, so no debating there... however, is there any possible way to engineer a less convoluted solution for "street use"? Race cars have the luxury of removing various stock s*** and making a lot more room in the engine bay, but for us street vehicles, our engine bays are pretty cramped, especially after installing a turbo... so creating a "lesser" system that is "good enough" by either having a preset pressure or more difficult to adjust valve that doesn't take up a lot of room with all these oil lines is probably more desirable for us normal people (like me)I'll try to get some better pics of the oil pan and the external adjuster up in the next few days.
Basically, we use an oil filter relocation adapter at the block, oil line from it to the adjuster, then line from the adjuster to the remote oil filter and another line from the remote oil filter back to the relocation adapter at the block. There is another line that is plumbed from the external adjuster into the pan that is the new bypass.
Flow is most important here. You can use the cheap relocation adapters and remote oil filter housings but they will decrease the efficiency of the system.
If you need more detail to determine legality with SCCA let me know....
timing belt must be removed... oil pan must be removed and so does the MBSP ("upper oil pan block")... it's basically a 5 hour job assuming the tranny doesn't have to be removed since there's 2 10mm bolts on the MBSP that installs into the engine's rear cover (where the rear main seal is)Has anyone checked the workshop manual for oil pump removal? One line item that caught my attention: "remove engine and transaxle". Can it be done still in the car? If not, this just got more complicated for the average wrench turner.
So I assume this utilizes as sandwich plate of some description? Do you guys also run an oil cooler, if so, is it air or water cooled? I'm curious because I want to run an oil cooler off a sandwich plate on the back of the block and I'm wondering if this might get in the way or vice versa. I also need two ports for oil temperature and oil pressure - man I'm running out of places to put things!
I know the benefits of having an externally relocated oil filter, so no debating there... however, is there any possible way to engineer a less convoluted solution for "street use"? Race cars have the luxury of removing various stock s*** and making a lot more room in the engine bay, but for us street vehicles, our engine bays are pretty cramped, especially after installing a turbo... so creating a "lesser" system that is "good enough" by either having a preset pressure or more difficult to adjust valve that doesn't take up a lot of room with all these oil lines is probably more desirable for us normal people (like me)
also by doing this (if possible), it could possibly be more marketable to the masses as a simpler to install kit and will probably be cheaper... so you might be able to sell a s*** load of these kits
Ok, I follow that. I wonder if it would be possible to run a sandwhich plate underneath that for some pressure/temp senders? Man I'm just trying visualize everything. This kit is great but I just wouldn't know where to put my oil pressure/temperature senders with this in place. The temperature sensor can go anywhere as oil flow really won't mess with its reading but the pressure sender needs to be in a "dead end" like the stocker. I suppose an oil-to-air intercooler could always just be run inline with any of the braided steel lines as well as the temperature sender.
well of course... your race car is the whole reason why this thread exists...I definitely hear you on a less complicated kit would be more marketable! However, the system we developed was done solely to develop the FS-DE for racing. Along the way, on this forum I saw many of the "street" guys were experiencing very similar problems. I wrote the article to show that we have been able to mask some of the short-comings of the OE oiling system on our race motors. I would love to have the time and money to devote to developing a simpler system for the street but that is not in the cards for the short term, especially with the race season growing ever closer!
With that said, I am willing to produce some of the "blue-printed" oil pumps for the forum members. I can also help in aquiring the various other parts of our system (either selling or pointing in the right direction). If you notice in the previously posted picture of our engine bay, we haven't removed that much and this system (especially the external adjuster) does not take up that much room.
But please realize we have only tested this system on our race motors which have specific main/rod bearing tolerances matched to our oil brand and weight. We cannot gaurantee the same results on everyones motor due to the extreme amount of variables.....
Hopefully, in the future, if there is enough interest we might be able to do some "street" testing on a stock MSP we have.....