FS-DE Oil System

hi when i use my AC on my mazdaspeed the oil pressure drops to 0 PSI normally it is at 5-7 PSI with the AC off this is at Idle can anybody tell me if that is normal or if the oil pump needs changing. thanks

What gauge are you using to determine these oil pressures, the stock gauge in the dash or an aftermarket gauge?
 
i am using a prosport digital gauge

Is it an electric or mechanical gauge? If electric you might be having an electrical issue. If your oil pressure truely went to zero you would hear lost of noise coming from the valve cover! However, the normally low idle oil pressure you listed isn't great either....
 
it is electric and yes 1 or 2 of my lifters are keeping noise so would you suggest to change my oil pump and if so i saw top line have a replacement oil pump selling on ebay is that a good oil pump or is that a waste of time

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

If your oil pressure were at zero all your lifters would be making noise. That is not to say that a few lifters making noise is a good thing. The problem could be from several issues; needing an oil change, worn engine bearings, or a poor oil pump. I'd check out the system further before changing the pump though.
 
ok i changed the oil to see if the lifter noise would go away but it didnt i am now about to overhaul the engine because the engine is burning oil i have jus bought the full gasket set but i wanted to know if i can use the same oil pump or if i should change it because the low oil pressure may be because the engine is losing oil internally i havent had to put in oil recently but before i had to keep checking the oil level but since i changed the oil the level havent moved but i am going to go ahead and overhaul the engine do u think i should change the oil pump as well
 
HELL YES! Change that pump, and your water pump and anything else that is the LIFELINE of your engine. It is foolish to spend all that money on a rebuild and skimp on the most vital components. An oil pump is only $100. A seized engine will cost a whole lot more.
 
I have had a fellow forum member interested in this system who is trying to put together a list of parts needed for the conversion to this system since he is in Europe. I put together a list from the install we did on the race car. I have not done this install on a street car myself. I wondered if the fellow forum members who have done this conversion can chime in to add or modify the parts on the list that are required.

Thanks in advance!!

Besides the normal Upgraded oil pump and external PRV the list is:

20 feet AN 10 hose
7 AN10 straight fittings
1 AN10 90 degree fitting (bypass return to block)
Bung for Block Girdle
Oil Filter Block Adapter
Remote Filter Housing
2 Fittings for remote filter housing
2 Fittings for Oil Filter Block Adapter
Filter for remote housing


C'mon people, i need some help on this....
 
Question for you smart guys out there :D

Are my rod bearings going or is the oil pump going?

Data;

Cold oil pressure - around 65 psi at 3k rpm
Hot oil pressure - never above 50 psi with a drop to about 40 psi at redline
When hot, the oil pressure drops a small amount (no more than 5psi) with any throttle application. Off throttle it goes back up.

Installed parts;

AWR oil pan
Brand new non ball bearing turbo with the stock Mazdaspeed oil feed line and no restrictor.
Block and pump have around 75k miles.

Thanks!
 
I go to my local performance shop and buy bulk hose it's cheaper. I think -10AN is only $1/ft. Then the ends you buy and bolt them on.
 
I have been looking for pre-made SS hose assemblies...

pre-made is bad. I agree with MAXX. get some bulk and make your own. that way you will not be limited to how or where you are routing due to length issues. they are very easy to put the ends on yourself and you can color coordinate to your liking. you will be thankful you have extras for all those lines you forgot about.
 
thanks very much for all of your help and is this oil pump a good oil pump

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

its the exact same one one i bought. mine spec'd out very good, but i had Tom (MP3 Racer) do the special coating anyway. If you want the proper pressure and longevity for your oil system, I highly recommend having the treatment done. Its worth the wait (approx 3 weeks).
 

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Question for you smart guys out there :D

Are my rod bearings going or is the oil pump going?

Data;

Cold oil pressure - around 65 psi at 3k rpm
Hot oil pressure - never above 50 psi with a drop to about 40 psi at redline
When hot, the oil pressure drops a small amount (no more than 5psi) with any throttle application. Off throttle it goes back up.

Installed parts;

AWR oil pan
Brand new non ball bearing turbo with the stock Mazdaspeed oil feed line and no restrictor.
Block and pump have around 75k miles.

Thanks!

Problem isn't the car my friend , it might be just you (thought) lol
 
Question for you smart guys out there :D

Are my rod bearings going or is the oil pump going?

Data;

Cold oil pressure - around 65 psi at 3k rpm
Hot oil pressure - never above 50 psi with a drop to about 40 psi at redline
When hot, the oil pressure drops a small amount (no more than 5psi) with any throttle application. Off throttle it goes back up.

Installed parts;

AWR oil pan
Brand new non ball bearing turbo with the stock Mazdaspeed oil feed line and no restrictor.
Block and pump have around 75k miles.

Thanks!


Hard to tell what is exactly the problem. More than likely with 75K miles it is a combination of both the bearings and the oil pump.
With 40 psi at redline, if your bearings aren't worn they soon will be!!

BTW, what weight oil are you using? Is it petroleum based or synthetic? How long has it been since your last oil change??
 
I have been looking for pre-made SS hose assemblies...


Pre-made SS hose assemblies are nice because they use the high pressure crimped fittings.and you can bypass the tedious assembly process.

However, the choices for length and fitting end typpes is definitely limited. By going with the bulk hose and re-usable ends you can custom make your lines to your particular installation for length fitting angulation.

A couple of words of advice (unfortunately from experience), be careful with the pre-assembled used ss hoses (NASCAR Surplus) for sale on ebay. Many times these are from motors that have had detrimental endings (NASCAR's version of zoom, zoom, boom boom). They will be left with small metal particles that are embedded on the inside of the hose that are all but impossible to wash out. The particles will eventuall come loose with use. Those particles then enter your engine to cause harm to your bearings, etc.

Secondly, be careful with the "new" colored hoses. They are cheaper and easier to assemble with push-on hose ends. However, they don't stand up to pressure as well as the SS hose. They also do not have very good abrasion resistance which can be a big problem if a hose wears through.
 
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