FS-DE Oil System

unless they changed the design, this is the problem:
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That may be true of the AWR pan. The one we use allows the GT Spec 4 point ladder tie bar without issues....and is definitely not that close to the OE cradle!
 
iv been though 4 motors, i still have 3 oil pumps by the way, all with 30k or less..so this might well be my next mod.. i hate to replace a motor AGAIN, though im getting very fast.. lol.. 8 hrs last time with just two of us.. so some one find out where we can get the plates and lines from.. i think id like to do this.. also i was looking to make a copy of the AWR oil pan myself.. and a few buddys that are engineers.. well see how that turns out..lol
 
Ok so before this goes off topic lets get final
info on this mod posted with shipping info address ands what not maybe pricing as full package including all lines gaskets sandwich plates seals to replace pump re-locate filter with PRV and bypass system.
 
I have had a number of PM's on the pricing for the pump.

The $100 covers:
1.receiving your pump
2.disassembling your pump
3.recording pre-coating specs
4.sending to Swain Tech
5.coating of parts at Swain Tech
6.receiving back from Swain Tech
7.recording post-coating specs
8.reassembly of your pump

Shipping cost back to you is determined by where you are located. You will receive with your pump a copy of the specs.

The current turn-around time is 3 weeks including the time at Swain Tech.

If you have any other questions please let me know!
 
So Edwin what's the verdict on swapping in a spring from another pump?


You can try swapping in another spring but I can tell you from experience it will not cure the problem!

Yes, you can increase the base oil pressure with a spring of a higher rate or shimming the current spring to increase its rate. However, with continued "high rpm" (above 3500) use the bypass valve in the oil pump (which is controlled by the spring you are looking to change) causes significant cavitation (foaming) inside the pump. This foaming causes loss of oil pressure due to inefficiency of the rotors (just like cavitation causes an outboard motor prop not to work properly).

These pumps were designed to work on Grandma's car, not a race car!
 
I will likely have a pump coming your way very soon.

Get me the Required Info for shipping and maybe a phone number so we can talk about this.

Also..LMK when a good time to call is.

Thanks
Matt K.
 
Ok so before this goes off topic lets get final
info on this mod posted with shipping info address ands what not maybe pricing as full package including all lines gaskets sandwich plates seals to replace pump re-locate filter with PRV and bypass system.


The pricing I have outlined is:

$100 for blueprint service on the oil pump

$125 for external bypass valves

If purchasing together I will include modifying the oil pump to work with an external bypass valve!

You should be able to source your own sandwich plates, hoses, and bung for the MBSP or pan. I would rather not provide these since there is a huge range in available quality and type of these. Also, depending on where you mount the external bypass valve and locate the return bung your hose lengths will vary.

Possible sources for this stuff is: Jeg's, Summit, HRPworld.com

Any other questions please feel free to ask!!
 
So I got my High Flow pump from TOGA, I'm not sure what they change but the probe guys use them... Matt u want me to ship that pump to Doc B then? LMK...
 
how much more will this flow than the stock.


I wish I could answer this for you guys....however, we have not run a pump with the "blueprint" treatment without the external PRV system so I can't really say. I can say that with our race motors on 20W50 synthetic oil and the system as I have previously described we see 35-40 psi at idle and 70-80 psi at redline with the motor and oil at full operating temperature!

Your numbers will vary depending on many factors to include weight of oil, type of oil, bearing clearances, etc......

Just to be sure you guys understand, the pumps are blueprinted not to just increase their pressure but to allow them to provide the pressure they were designed to give in the first place.
 
so are you blocking off or capping the oil pumps original bypass valve as well? Is this the reason why we would need an external bypass valve system? I also understand the coating process you have shared with us, but I haven't read any details regarding what happens to the original pumps pressure reliefe valve. or is it that the coating process creates such a high flow/pressure of oil that the secondary pressure reliefe valve is necessary?
 
so are you blocking off or capping the oil pumps original bypass valve as well? Is this the reason why we would need an external bypass valve system?

.....The main reason we have found for the degredation of oil pressure over time with consistent hard use of the motor is due to the factory bypass regulator causing cavitation inside the pump.

What we have done on our race motors is render this inoperative and replace it with a bypass valve externally. This external bypass valve is adjustable as well.
 
I am interested in this mod but ultimately I would be interested in the WHOLE shabang. The Sandwich plate and the removing of the valve etc. Are there any basic directions/parts list needed to make this happen? Of course willing to pay for your research.
 
Well..Just to let you guys know..I have committed to this.
I will do a smll write up as I Install the parts..but it may be a few weeks for that..I am still waiting on my head to get back and it will likely be about a month or more before I have everything to install this setup as well.
 
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