Why am I pinging???

[Maxx Mazda]

What does your "static timing" refer to? You said it was +10.

 

[kicker22705]

static is the limit timing can be pulled down to and no further. so even if my timing map theoretically says to pull 50 degrees of timing, it'll pull it down to 10+ but no further.

if you look at my datalog, you can see where i hit the static limit of 10.

 

[kicker22705]

Valid point. However, it looks like he has two maps that overlap each other. One is based on boost pressure and the other is based on RPM.

I've had bad experiences tuning on the boost retard maps before, since the readings vary a bit.

You could always try hard coding the timing in the RPM scale for diagnostic purposes. It's worked well for me in the past. Actually, I'd seriously suggest you do that, and zero out the map that retards based on boost pressure.

i can do that but do you think it will matter? if you look at my datalog sheet at the bottom of my first post, you can see the timing basically drops down to 10 in the whole area where it pings.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

What I meant was what exactly IS static timing?

 

[kicker22705]

its 10.... this one says 5, but i changed it back to 10. Is that what you're asking? i meant just static not static timing.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

What does the parameter "static" refer to I guess is what I'm getting at. If it's liek the Haltech, it's a kind of a timing "offset."

 

[KySpeed]

i can do that but do you think it will matter? if you look at my datalog sheet at the bottom of my first post, you can see the timing basically drops down to 10 in the whole area where it pings.

Your timing will drop if the ecu reads knock.

You understand what i'm sayin you can go 8-9-10-11 but not 8-7-8-9 from what im seeing your timing patters are wrong via a bad tuner.

 

[kicker22705]

yeah i think so. you're saying i shouldn't have the dip in the timing map.

so rather than having the timing reach 24 at 2500 rpm then back down to 20 at 4000, it should steadily rise to 20 from 2500-5000rpm.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

No, you are supposed to have a dip in the mid range. At higher RPM, the combustion event needs to be triggered earlier (advanced timing) in order to fully combust as it should. It's hard to explain, but think of it this way. At higher RPM, everything is happening faster, and you need to have the spark happen sooner to keep up with everything. The mixture can only combust so fast, so to get the most efficiency you need to advance your timing.

Like I said it's really hard to explain, but the guy who tuned my car is a tuning genius around here, you need to book MONTHS in advance to get an appointment, and he's been tuning since the 80's. He explained it all to me.

The so called "dip" is normal, but I still don't get why you're pinging...

 

[K. Soze]

I'm subbin to this. I don't know why you're pinging, either.

I would start with the plugs. Do what Kooldino said and swith to 6's. See if that helps at all.

 

[Kooldino]

i can do that but do you think it will matter? if you look at my datalog sheet at the bottom of my first post, you can see the timing basically drops down to 10 in the whole area where it pings.

I hear ya, but can it hurt to try? Like I said, I've been in the same situation before.

You've tried most of the obvious answers already, so you might as well try a few alternate ideas.

 

[2.0t03speed]

subbing

 

[KySpeed]

Kool most of those values in the 300 load range wont be hit so thats n/a. My car doesnt start to really make power untill 4k.



I honestly don't understand the logic behind going to a hotter plug with knock problems. please explain that to me?

.....


I ran 7's in my protege from 3.5k on!

Colder plugs don't idle as well and are more prone to fouling. And need to be changed more often. Also they aren't good for cold starts.

I'm gonna guess you fouled one or two. Or your gap was too high. Your car will idle worse with colder plugs but shouldn't run bad

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I honestly don't understand the logic behind going to a hotter plug with knock problems. please explain that to me?

I agree Dana, I'm not calling bulls***, cause you know your stuff, but with knock generally a colder plug is the way to go. I had some ping with BKR5E's and went to the 7E's and it went away. (I only had the 5E's in for a day cause I dropped one of my new ones and smashed it so I had to use them for a day until I got a replacement.)

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I'm not saying that he shouldn't try the plugs, I agree he should. My question is why this might ring true if it works...

 

[kicker22705]

yeah i guess thats true. i'll try that, but i don't have any way to monotior knock right now to see if it improves or not. i sent my egt away to get repaired.

in the meantime i'll try the plugs. i just picked up a set of ngk zfr6f-11. those are the right ones right?

I hear ya, but can it hurt to try? Like I said, I've been in the same situation before.

You've tried most of the obvious answers already, so you might as well try a few alternate ideas.

 

[K. Soze]

Yes they are. Just make sure you check the gaps. I think 11's are gapped to the wrong specs. 11's are .044.

 

[03.5MSP]

how come you went with the extended reach plugs? I thought Dana and Steve said go with Bkr6e.

 

[kicker22705]

i don't remember which he said except NGK 6 series :\

if reach is the only diff then i'll just shorten the gap.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

The reach and gap are totally different. And ya you bought the irridium ones I think, the copper BKR's are what you wanted...