Wheel painting HELP!!

:
09 CWP MS3
So..I just tried to paint some rx8's with the gunmetal Duplicolor. The color is really uneven for some reason, even after I laid down coats of primer. I read up on 50 different "wheel painting" threads so I thought I knew what I was doing, but each spoke just has areas that are smooth and others that are rough, and of different shade. I thought maybe some clear coat would help it out but it didn't. I am thinking maybe wet sanding the clear and gunmetal paint would solve the problem, but I need some options for fixing it. That's where YOU come in! What can I do?
 
Definitely sand down the clear and use more paint. It may take several coats to even out the finish. I did it and I used probably 10 coats or more of graphite color wheel paint. Once you get an even finish, then clear.
 
I actually put down 4 coats of the graphite...but it just became really grainy!! like rough...and when i was putting on the clearcoat, it was beading up!
 
i just painted some wheels for my Rx7 and used the duplicolor bronze. I think it took 6 lite coats. I did wetsand with a 600 grit before the last coat to help get rid of that sand paper feel.
 
I actually put down 4 coats of the graphite...but it just became really grainy!! like rough...and when i was putting on the clearcoat, it was beading up!

it sounds like one of these possibly:

-didnt wait long enough in between coats
-didnt prep well enough
-didnt shake the paint can good

or any combination of the three.

Wait for it to dry real good and give it a good sanding. Then try and lay down a few light layers of paint and see where it gets you. Good luck
 
I am exactly where you are. I did mine last year. They were even but really rough in spots. Just a few days ago I started sanding them back down. I went over them with a 1000 grit wet sanding. They came out very smooth but some of the bad spots are back down to the origional color. I'm gonna finish sanding the rest tomorrow and respray them on Friday. I'm gonna try really light coats this time to try and avoid the orange peel again.
 
haha believe me, i did very light coats at reasonable intervals. its just that the metallic specks in the paint werent spraying evenly...but good to know some people had the same results..i will be back to sanding =(
 
Rattle can just sucks. Have you priced out having somebody shoot them for you with two part paint at a body shop? You wouldn't need to buy a lot of paint and if you do the prep work beforehand, it shouldn't cost you too much. Two part paint is much more durable and the finish will be well beyond what you can get with a rattle can. Not only that, your color selection will be multiple factors greater. Just a thought.

When I finally find a set of RX8, if I can't source a good, local, reasonable PC outfit, I will likely have mine shot with two part paint by a guy I know.
 
What temperature was it outside when you were doing this? Paint (especially spray paint) hates colder weather.

Spray paint sucks anyway...I'd just have them professionally done - you will be much happier with the results.
 
Hey knokout, I had the same issue when painting my stockers with the duplicolor. Did several light coats and then clear coat. Looked like crap!
You need to spray the last coat heavier for a good smooth finish.
Sand'em again and then do a couple of light coats and go heavier on the last coat.
 
So i just checked up on my wheels. So..it seems like there was just a lot of GRIT from the duplicolor gunmetal paint, that just brushed off with my finger....After trying to wet sand some of the paint off, i realized the paint didnt even really stick on the primer in some places..I used Duplicolor Sandable Primer. I can guess several reasons for this...what should i do.......
 
Well if you did sand the primer, maybe you didn't wipe down the wheels of all the sanding dust?
 
Should I be sanding the last coat of primer before color paint? I thought you just spray the coats of primer and the actual color paint on top.
 
Few things to try:

Are you using tack cloths between coats? These will pull any lose particles you can't see off of the primer/paint and give you a good clean surface to build on.

Another mistake people often make with rattle can paint is they are too worried about puddling/runs so they shoot too far away from the surface. The problem with this is that some of the paint actually begins to dry before it hits the surface and this is often what makes that sandpaper like finish with these tiny bits of dried paint. Wet sanding can help with removing this.

Also, I'm assuming that when you initially cleaned the wheel before preparing the surface for primer (sanding/Scotch-Brite) you used acetone, TSP or other cleaner to make sure there was no wax remaining on the wheel? People often think that sanding /Scotch-Brite preparation is a good enough foundation to primer/paint but what they don't realize is that they are actually embedding any residual wax on the surface DEEPER into the surface when they sand the wheel. Problem is that the wax will come back later to spoil your finish when you wonder why the primer/paint is not adhering to certain areas of the wheel compared to other areas.
 
That actually makes a lot of sense...I guess the paint dried before hitting the surface. Also, I got a little confused when I bought paint thinner which says "100% mineral spirits" in small letters on the front. I know min spirits are a cleaner but I guess a thinner too?
 
Back