What have you done to your P5 today?

no shaft play but it needs oil seals as well as all the oil and coolant lines, down pipe, and i'd need the Flyin Miata 02 clamp (at the very least)

Figure i'd be in around $500 without doing valve bodies?
 
So anyone here running camber bolts (SPC, Eibach, etc) on Tokico HPs? I'm about ready to buy a set so I can get this rear camber issue fixed but want to know if it's feasible to use on the rear axle? I have been told that from the factory there is no way to adjust rear camber but with aftermarket struts I'm thinking I should be able to.
 
I'm running camber bolts on my rear with megan racing springs. The camber bolts I got were from scratch'n'sniff and maxed out around -0.5

It helped my rubbing issue

i7ia0Th0mGrdS.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure DaveB was running that suspension and he definitely had rear camber bolts in the back. We were talking about them when working on a friends car at his shop. I want to say he had around -3' of camber in the back, IIRC. You should be good to go, Jeff.
 
JDM_Pro5 said:
I'm running camber bolts on my rear with megan racing springs. The camber bolts I got were from scratch'n'sniff and maxed out around -0.5

It helped my rubbing issue
Click to expand...

Lewis7789 said:
I'm pretty sure DaveB was running that suspension and he definitely had rear camber bolts in the back. We were talking about them when working on a friends car at his shop. I want to say he had around -3' of camber in the back, IIRC. You should be good to go, Jeff.
Click to expand...

Cool and thanks guys! Figured I was good to go but before pulling the trigger wanted to do some more digging. I know the SPC and Eibach bolts allow a -1.75 to +1.75 degree change so that will be more than enough for my needs. Time to pm CR3.
 
Just did some number crunching and realized I'll have my P5 paid off this September... unless something else happens sooner. Mo' money, mo' mods!!!! New life motto. That, and graduating without a car payment. Either way, it's good.
 
got my fake turbo whistle in the mail today to play around with all the vehicles, and also my yellow fog light tint. is there a how to somewhere on removing the fig lights. dont want to break anything
 
Looks like Ill have to wait till mid Feb to put my Sparco Fighter seat in. I have to send the current one I have to get replaced as the bolt holes for mounting are way off. The seat that I have is not in stock and wont be until mid Feb. =(
 
Tried to drive it to work yesterday but no go, wouldn't crank, too long of a winter's snooze in the man cave. Had to top off battery, then jumped it off, drove it 30 miles to bring it back to life. Started up just fine this morning and eased on in to work with it since the weather's gonna be good for the next several days or so. Got to start driving this thing more to not flat spot the tires and kill the battery. Love it, just don't like all the trash and obstacles on the frwys and definitely won't drive it in bad weather. That's what the truck is for, that and not caring what crap is on the frwy or if there's pavement at all, lol.
 
Cameron W. said:
got my fake turbo whistle in the mail today to play around with all the vehicles, and also my yellow fog light tint. is there a how to somewhere on removing the fig lights. dont want to break anything
Click to expand...

Here's a link to the how-to but really no need to go through all that for overlays. Make a bucket of warm soapy water and apply that to a clean light and then place the overlay on. When you have it positioned where you want use the tool it came with (if it did, if it didn't a credit card will do the trick) to smooth it out and get rid of the air bubbles.
 
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