What have you done to your P5 today?

[CR3 Motorsports]

Yay its in! lol

yea kinda ran into this stuff when I did my 4-2-1 header. I ended up cutting the EGR side of the pipe and adding a breather filter and capping the exhaust side.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Now im having issues with the tensioner "pulley"/roller... Is there supposed to still be slack in the belt even after I install the tensioner? I've tried to tighten the bolt as tight as it'll go but it won't hold the pulley to the point where the belt has next to no slack. Should I keep tightening the bolt or leave it, as there should be slack?

No, it should be pretty taught. The idler and tensioner each have a single bolt which holds them to the block (see the service manual for the exact torque spec). The tensioner has a spring which is used to set the belt tension, I assume you have that installed correctly? If not, read the service manual!

The tensioner has a spot where you can insert an allen wrench to temporarily add/remove tension on the belt. Is this the bolt you're referring to? If so, you can't tighten or loosen that bolt, it is just there make it easier to install the tensioner spring.

 

[Ltlrdwagon]

love me some retrofits.
is all the light in the housing from the projector itself being on or do you have some kind of city light mod in there?

I was thinking the same ^ and did you splice into the running lamp/ indicator to get the outside marker to work?

The retrofit is a kit from Retrofit source first and foremost, which made the install a breeze. The picture was shot on an android phone in HDR, so its not as bright as the picture shows around the housing, but there is light leak from behind the HID shroud. Bumper lights are also no longer unfunctioning and wont function any longer as they will be shaved to match the looks of the MP3 and MSP. The other fun thing with this was even though the projector kit comes with a separate HID controller and relay box, you still have to make up a harness using a SPDT relay in order to switch the P5's ground switching for headlights to positive trigger.

 

[31N007]

She's alive!!! I cant express how chuffed I am!!!

And I got my projectors in too!!! Honestly, I wish I could drive her all around but alas, she's not insured. I was naughty and drove her to my mommas though!

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!820&authkey=!AMqievy3LlJvxoQ

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!823&authkey=!AOJlSQ-yrCc4D5I

Top is her in the drive, bottom is the new projector!!!

@ cheesehelmet:well, she ran. That's not to say im not happy that there's play. Im not gonna be driving her for a little while so ill have a look again. Its just that I tightened the bolt (the one that holds em to the block) and it still allowed the pulley to swing. The tensioner is installed correctly- perhaps the spring is on its way out? I do have a new belt in there but that tensioner should still hold the belt tight I would think. block tightened it a little over spec for good measures but as i said, the pulley still swings around a little

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Haha Chris...loved the story...

 

[CheeseHelmet]

@ cheesehelmet:well, she ran. That's not to say im not happy that there's play. Im not gonna be driving her for a little while so ill have a look again. Its just that I tightened the bolt (the one that holds em to the block) and it still allowed the pulley to swing. The tensioner is installed correctly- perhaps the spring is on its way out? I do have a new belt in there but that tensioner should still hold the belt tight I would think. block tightened it a little over spec for good measures but as i said, the pulley still swings around a little

Just to be clear, no matter how much you tighten that bolt, the tensioner pulley will always be able to move around. Unlike the alternator and P/S belts, the timing belt is automatically tensioned with the tension being set by that spring. The service manual says you're supposed to change it when changing the belt so it wouldn't hurt to get a new one (they're < $5 from Mazda).

 

[31N007]

Just to be clear, no matter how much you tighten that bolt, the tensioner pulley will always be able to move around. Unlike the alternator and P/S belts, the timing belt is automatically tensioned with the tension being set by that spring. The service manual says you're supposed to change it when changing the belt so it wouldn't hurt to get a new one (they're < $5 from Mazda).

d'oh! It would help if I read that bit! Thanks a bunch! Ill get and pick that up. Heck, at $5 a part, I could pick up quite a few! Compared to my other purchases, I'd say this ones the easiest to make!

On the main crank pulley bolt, how can I tighten that sonofabitch? I broke my 1/2 to 3/8 inch converter thing along with an extension thing too... My pal said not to worry but I said bull as last time I left it out of spec, the bolt was somewhat loose as I went to take it off again... Should I borrow an impact wrench and try with that???

 

[CheeseHelmet]

On the main crank pulley bolt, how can I tighten that sonofabitch? I broke my 1/2 to 3/8 inch converter thing along with an extension thing too... My pal said not to worry but I said bull as last time I left it out of spec, the bolt was somewhat loose as I went to take it off again... Should I borrow an impact wrench and try with that???

You should really use a decent torque wrench to tighten that bolt, even the $15 harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench would be safer than using an impact wrench. I say this because the service manual says it must be tightened to somewhere between 116-122 ft-lbs. No matter what Evan says, you can't safely/accurately hit that with an impact wrench.

There are a few methods you can use to hold it in place. This is how I did it (the fork bolts onto the crank pulley), but I think it would be even easier if you simply throw the transmission in gear and have someone hold down the brake pedal while you tightened it.

 

[31N007]

You should really use a decent torque wrench to tighten that bolt, even the $15 harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench would be safer than using an impact wrench. I say this because the service manual says it must be tightened to somewhere between 116-122 ft-lbs. No matter what Evan says, you can't safely/accurately hit that with an impact wrench.

There are a few methods you can use to hold it in place. This is how I did it (the fork bolts onto the crank pulley), but I think it would be even easier if you simply throw the transmission in gear and have someone hold down the brake pedal while you tightened it.

Ill have to give that a shot. I tried using a center punch in one of the holes to try and stop it. Nothing doing. The pulley just fluttered its eyelashes and snapped the tip off the punch. I had my dad put it in fifth and hold the brakes. It did a bit but I didnt hear a click on the torque wrench to say I was in spec... :S

 

[jdmdude07]

I was finally able to locate the harness I got with my HID kit and got it installed, albeit 6 months later... but no more flickering!!! It only took one 22oz beer!

However, I managed to discover the "drip box" or whatever you want to call it below the air filter box. How did I find it, you ask? I dropped a wrench in there. I had to MacGyver a piece of my oil filter package to get it out, but I got it. All done now. Off work tomorrow for the first Sunday in over a year... because I'm going to the Colts/Texans game tomorrow and it's going to be the bees knees!!!!! Much needed R&R.

 

[Lewis7789]

No matter what Evan says, you can't safely/accurately hit that with an impact wrench.

I never claimed to be an expert. But yeah, if you can get a torque wrench on it I would advise that instead, as Nick noted.

Though for the record, I used my impact (about 130lbs of torque) on the crank bolt 3 times on my KL that was in the P5 and now my Milly without any issues. As long as she's on there really well.

 

[CTt3P5]

Doesn't the deck have Bluetooth support or is that an accessory???

Has the capability but requires an optional module. I can always pick one up, pull the unit and wire it up.

Congrats on getting her running! Now get that insurance straightened out.

Here goes my Epic story of trying to install the pacemaker header I got from AusOrion

lol Chris, great story and pics.

 

[Circuit]

Yay its in! lol

yea kinda ran into this stuff when I did my 4-2-1 header. I ended up cutting the EGR side of the pipe and adding a breather filter and capping the exhaust side.

Haha Chris...loved the story...

Has the capability but requires an optional module. I can always pick one up, pull the unit and wire it up.

Congrats on getting her running! Now get that insurance straightened out.



lol Chris, great story and pics.

Thanks guys! I momentarily started her up and H O L Y S H I T T H A T 'S L O U D


Going to be a fun 20 mile drive to the exhaust shop - mostly freeway LOL

 

[CTt3P5]

Took a drive to my bro-in-laws this morning to install motor mount inserts....now I'm really jealous of his oversized and heated two car garage. lol Got the CS inserts in the front mount. One question though, what in the hell is the piece circled in the pic? It's not menioned in CS's instructions nor have I ever seen it referenced in any how-to's for the mounts? Had to pop a ball bearing out and remove it to remove the thru bolt of the mount. Is this something specific to automatic's? Gotta love having a drill press and hole saw bits handy as well. Had to drill out what was left of the stock rubber to get the inserts in.

PS was a whole nother story. Got the mount off just fine and found the rubber was torn pretty good on both top and bottom. Used a band saw to trim the rubber off of the sleeve on the bolting flange so it would go through the AWR inserts. Once that was done we found that the sleeve would not go all the way through both inserts and was flopping around in the middle of the mount??? Attached a pic for s**** and giggles. Did a mock up in the car with it and neither of us were happy with it. Did I miss something on the install? Followed the instructions given with the inserts but mabye one of you guys encountered the same and have a tip/trick? Made a quick trip to Autozone and bought a Duralast mount to install so I could get the car back on the road.....$156.87 later.... Since I didn't use the AWR inserts on the PS, I left the DS alone for now.

Monday I'll call the mechanic and make an appt. to swing in and get the car re-inspected...after I swap out the tinted bumper markers.

 

[31N007]

Cheers man I appreciate it. I may be waiting till April at this rate :S things aren't going as smoothly as planned with what my dads working on. Nothing serious, just delays.

Ordered and received my projector retro well, I ordered the H7 harness. And the sedan bulbs use H4 plugs. And I dont have a female H7 pigtail. And im an idiot for not mentioning that when I checked out at TRS. Ill have to contact them Monday and see what I can do.

Do you guys have any suggestions on where I could find one??? And what wires are what in this butchered up relay?

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=50C06A9C62DCD437!611&authkey=!AMd7idt79CjR_KY

Ill have to take a better picture sometime next week... Im headed up north to snowboard and hopefully not break anything

Im gonna miss my baby

 

[CTt3P5]

hahahahaha Chris...be sure to wear some ear plugs.

Oh yeah, made a trip to Sears to pick up a few things and took a back road that is bumpy as hell. Made a point to turn down the radio and I didn't hear one clunk, creak, squeak, odd sound over any of the bumps! So after taking the car to three different shops and paying over $100 for 'diagnostic checks' of the suspension for said sounds and not one shop being able to determine anything it appears the noise was due to torn motor mounts! Eff me!!! And the last shop I took it too for the check, charged me almost $70 for looking at it and they are the ones that failed me for inspection because of the mounts????

 

[31N007]

^always the little things, isn't it? Glad you got it sorted though im looking to replace mine soon. May ride it out till may (only a month of driving) cause I plan on working another internship so ill have more money coming in

God am I excited to drive her I think I may have an oil leak though, I'll have to look into it when I get back. The cel is on (has been) and the oil light is on when I turn the accessories on. If its a leak, can I just put some rtv over it? Or do I have to pull the lower oil pan and reseal it? I trust this oil this time around so ill just reuse it if there really is a leak. Ill check the level on the dipstick first off. Its just that there was around a hand sized puddle on the ground this morning that wasn't there last night. Now, it may have been the snow dripping off but idk... its underneath where the oil pan is so im thinking it may be there.

EDIT: I think I know what to do since the orig. P5 lights had two separate hi/lo plugs, I use 4 of the wires. I need to figure out which two are low and which are high. When I do that, the low gets the H7 plug (only on the drivers, pass gets capped off) (w/e is the two prong) and the highs I splice into the solenoid on each projector. Ill draw myself up a diagram at some point. The whole sleeping on it bit really helped

 

[Bastian]

seized rear caliper

 

[reut1]

seized rear caliper

you're just like me! new caliper will go on today with any luck

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Picked up another P5 last night...now have two P5's and a Speed sitting in the driveway!!!