What have you done to your MSP today?

sheesh man. i would have hit that b**** with a dual action until i hit gelcoat lol. if the paints peeling its all gotta come off anyway. stip/wetsand, respray within 3 hours TOPS. its just clear.

then you gotta wait like 72 hours to wetsand and polish it for best results. and even a polish only needs 1500/2500 grits after clearcoat. but you need a good polish system. the mcquires stuff wont be good enough to take out 2500 scratches without a shitload of hand polishing.

you SHOULD clearcoat the gelcoat though. it probably doesn't have uv protection built in. that's what the clear is for.
 
sheesh man. i would have hit that b**** with a dual action until i hit gelcoat lol. if the paints peeling its all gotta come off anyway. stip/wetsand, respray within 3 hours TOPS. its just clear.

then you gotta wait like 72 hours to wetsand and polish it for best results. and even a polish only needs 1500/2500 grits after clearcoat. but you need a good polish system. the mcquires stuff wont be good enough to take out 2500 scratches without a shitload of hand polishing.

you SHOULD clearcoat the gelcoat though. it probably doesn't have uv protection built in. that's what the clear is for.

I just don't want to get into the fiber obviously. If I had a DA, I'd have used it, but I've just been using a sanding block. After that, I'm going to use the Turtle Wax rubbing, then polishing compound with a polishing wheel. Unless I really should use a clearcoat. In the past 12 years in the automotive industry, beyond mixing paint and going to a few PBR classes in 2004/2005 I've done almost no other body work. I hate it. I absolutely hate it. And for that reason, I've never actually invested time in learning it. What I've done so far with this hood has been entirely from various forum posts from EVERYWHERE. I had initially planned to clear the hood, but it turned out so well without it, I didn't think I'd need to, but then you bring up the fact that it likely does NOT have UV protection... If, in fact, it doesn't then I have no other choice but to clear it. There are quite a few small cracks in the gel coat that I know I can't do anything about. I've got about $120 invested in the hood. It's not going to be perfect, but I'd like for it to at least look "okay". The clear that's on the hood is horrible and thin except for the front- either they laid it heavy to protect it or it's the way the hung/painted the hood. I really wish I hadn't spent so much time with the 800 grit. I know why it took so long and why I shouldn't have used it. I was attacking the hood from a "wet sand" point of view, when the real issue was the clearcoat that I needed to remove FIRST. It's been a learning experience.
 
Yea... auto paint work is pretty rough but its nothing like trying to bring wood or any pourous surface up to high gloss heh.
Gelcoat is pretty hard stuff and usually applied thick, so you shouldn't have to worry about hitting fibers. As long as you can wipe the whole thing down with alcohol and it looks the same color, you prob got most of the clear. Clear tends to yellow slightly.

800wet will get through most paints easily esp with a block. Just spend as much time on 1500 and 2500 wet. Then work up from abrasive to fine polish and it will work great. I'd almost handpolish but use lowest rpm setting on polisher amd take your time. If it gets cloudy, your polishing too fast and burning your top coat.

Youwill need to continuously add wax to the polish to maintain it. Bit again, gelcoat very hard stuff.
 
Installed an old autometer boost gauge in place of the wbO2 gauge. The sensor for the WB burned out months ago and I have yet to replace it so I decided to replace the gauge with one that I could actually use.
 
Ha. I should get one too. Had a blank in my dual pillar since I made it heh.
 
Well, I spent about an hour on the hood last night and got the clear completely off of half of the hood. Hit the gelcoat with 800, 1000 and a Trizac pad. It's going to turn out good. Thanks for the help, Valk. I'm definitely going to clear it. The cracks are barely noticeable after the 1000/Trizac and cleaning it, so that makes me happy. I reeeeeeaaaaallly want a CF trunk deck lid now as well as CF eyelids.
 
I recommend valspar ac.2100. You need a proper spray setup for it but goes.on nice and thick, atomizes well and not stinky. 2-3 coats of that and polish and its beautiful. $60 cdn/qt.
Wet coats with clear. Flash for 20-30 minutes back to back. Also don't sand higher than 6-800 for applying clear.
 
You can probably tell where it's been Trizac'd
 
Took apart the trans from the mp3 that blew up on me a couple weeks ago. Culprit turns out to be the 3/4 shift fork snapped, which explains why I was stuck in 4th gear. Question now is where I can I get a replacement? Also other than the par 3n4th gears are their any other options or upgraded or 3/4 that have a longer gear ratio?
 
Took apart the trans from the mp3 that blew up on me a couple weeks ago. Culprit turns out to be the 3/4 shift fork snapped, which explains why I was stuck in 4th gear. Question now is where I can I get a replacement? Also other than the par 3n4th gears are their any other options or upgraded or 3/4 that have a longer gear ratio?

MFactory
 
you should get the plate mod. from what ive been reading, it solves the main problems with the gears failing.
 
i have a plate for the transmission just laying on a bench. just looking for a trans to put it in.
 
So for the list of things I got done on the msp today....
Removed stock turbo, installed the gt28r, pope 3" downpipe and vibrant 3" exhaust. Fabed a bracket to be able to use the stock wastegate along with the new turbo. In reality it took me 3 days to sort everything out. The turbo is bigger than the stock gt25 by quite a bit so everything got shifted. The pope downpipe its literally touching the ac pump bracket. I also had broken studs and random stupid crap that ate most of the time. I'll try and post pictures later in the week. I'm exausted and the msp brought back a lot of skill I haven't used in a long while. I was hoping to have the high boost fmic along with the retrofitted headlights installed but I've run out of time and I'll have to find another hole in my crazy schedule to mess with the msp some more. I hope the results are worth the effort.
 
So for the list of things I got done on the msp today....
Removed stock turbo, installed the gt28r, pope 3" downpipe and vibrant 3" exhaust. Fabed a bracket to be able to use the stock wastegate along with the new turbo. In reality it took me 3 days to sort everything out. The turbo is bigger than the stock gt25 by quite a bit so everything got shifted. The pope downpipe its literally touching the ac pump bracket. I also had broken studs and random stupid crap that ate most of the time. I'll try and post pictures later in the week. I'm exausted and the msp brought back a lot of skill I haven't used in a long while. I was hoping to have the high boost fmic along with the retrofitted headlights installed but I've run out of time and I'll have to find another hole in my crazy schedule to mess with the msp some more. I hope the results are worth the effort.

Did you not cut the AC compressor bracket ear off?
 
It's coming along. "Half" is complete for now
 
My wifey got me a set of lowering springs for mine.I am gonna just use the front ones to lower it a little cuase the car sits low on the back.They are megans.
She also got me a new microtech ltc dash 2 run on my RX7 with my LT9 with 32x32 software!
She drives a ms3 and she is also into cars so when xmas and my bday are around i can expect good quality car parts!

Does she have a sister?? lol
 
Went out to drain the water and water wetter from my MSP before tonights -20*F temps and found a pink slushy waiting. Caught it before it completely iced over. Hooked my air compressor to the radiator and block and blew both out. WHEW (eekdance)
 
Preferio, I cut all of it off. I'll take a picture of what I'm talking about. I also had to install a slim fan since the inlet wouldn't clear the stock fan.
 
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