What have you done to your Mazda3 today?

[bbrich57]

Well... getting further off-topic, yeah. But when that sun is out..... it'll burn the hyde right off ya' in no time.

BTW: I'm SOOOO glad Mazda brought back Velocity Red Mica and replaced True Red. A MUCH nicer color, imo. In the pictures, your car doesn't look like Copper Red?? It looks like Velo Red.

 

[sunrun176]

Hehe.. I'm sure! (burn)

<nods> Pictures rarely do Mazda's (or really any mfgr's) paints justice because there's so much depth and variation depending upon lighting and reflection angle.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread topic, already in progress...
(jacked)

Gas'n'wash this afternoon. Then a little touch-up paint for a couple of chips.

 

[Azexa]

Just converted my cold air intake into a short ram intake. I guess where my intake cone sat is the same place where the water would run off so my whole cold air intake got soaked and I was told i was lucky i didnt hydro lock my motor. Good times.

 

[Chefsp0t]

You'd be surprised how much water you have to be in to hydrolock a motor. You'd basically have to submerge the whole filter and then somehow suck all that water up the pipe to the engine. It's not as easy as people make it sound.

 

[hat1018]

Earlier today, or yesterday for most of you (I work grave yard shift). I had the displeasure of doing my first oil change on my 06 hatch. First off the plastic "shield" under the engine, what a pita 1 had a rusty nut and bolt, another bolt was rusted enough to just break the other plastic piece it bolts to, 2 different types of screws. WTF! Then on to the drain plug, that must have been installed by an impact wrench but with the help of a 17mm wrench looped onto the end of my ratchet I was able to get it off. Btw is there supposed to be a gasket on the drain plug? Now onto the filter housing, I could not get it loose. No matter what tool I tried, it would not budge, and the last thing I wanted to do was break the damn thing. So I get to leave the old filter in until I can get to the dealer to see if they can get it off. Oil filter conversion in my future. I have done a butt-ton of oil changes in my time and never had that much trouble!

 

[bbrich57]

Nothing too earth shattering, but a few things I've been thinking about for a long, LONG time.
I finally bought and installed a Sharkfin in A4D, Rally White.
And though I would have preferred WeatherTech's (in channel) I installed VentVisor #94909's tonight.
No pics for now. Maybe later.

Tomorrow we go for the ghusto... The Racing Beat rear sway bar (27mm) and adjustable end links are in, but need to be installed. If the weather is good and so is work, I may just take the plunge tomorrow after work.

 

[bbrich57]

Earlier today, or yesterday for most of you (I work grave yard shift). I had the displeasure of doing my first oil change on my 06 hatch. First off the plastic "shield" under the engine, what a pita 1 had a rusty nut and bolt, another bolt was rusted enough to just break the other plastic piece it bolts to, 2 different types of screws. WTF! Then on to the drain plug, that must have been installed by an impact wrench but with the help of a 17mm wrench looped onto the end of my ratchet I was able to get it off. Btw is there supposed to be a gasket on the drain plug? Now onto the filter housing, I could not get it loose. No matter what tool I tried, it would not budge, and the last thing I wanted to do was break the damn thing. So I get to leave the old filter in until I can get to the dealer to see if they can get it off. Oil filter conversion in my future. I have done a butt-ton of oil changes in my time and never had that much trouble!

1) You can buy the "wrench for the oil filter, but as you said, conversion is best, imo. The best deal I have found is here: http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2869
And the proper WIX oil filter number is 51348. I buy like 10 at a time from here: http://www.fleetfilter.com/ Oddly, they also correctly fit my John Deere tractor.
2) Take all the splash shields off and apart. Clean the dirt and rust off any threads and Anti-Seize both bolts and captured nuts. This will save you tons of trouble in the future.
3) Cut a hole next to the factory inspection hole that's already in the plastic shield just big enough for your hand and the oil filter. I believe mine is about 4.5" in diameter. That too will save you tons of work in the future.
4) The plug gaskets are aluminum and about 0.75 ea. and can be had at most neighborhood auto parts stores these days.

And I agree... WHAT H*LL WAS MAZDA THINKING!!!!???

 

[MZ3SPORTRUE]

Installed my HPS SRI (thumb)

 

[hat1018]

2) Take all the splash shields off and apart. Clean the dirt and rust off any threads and Anti-Seize both bolts and captured nuts. This will save you tons of trouble in the future.
How about just leaving the splash shield off all together?

 

[MZ3SPORTRUE]

2) Take all the splash shields off and apart. Clean the dirt and rust off any threads and Anti-Seize both bolts and captured nuts. This will save you tons of trouble in the future.
How about just leaving the splash shield off all together?

You can leave your splash shield off with no problems, its just more water and dirt can get up on the bottom of your engine bay!

 

[hat1018]

I just wondered. I think I will leave it in place because my engine bay looks pretty decent. I don't want to have any extra dirt and what not under the hood.

 

[bbrich57]

As promised:

And today.....

Compare: Black is OE @ 20mm; Silver/Gray is Progess adjustable @ 22mm; Red is Racing Beat @ 27mm.

The rear end is DEFINITELY tighter. Move the wheel just a little bit and the car reacts! It's starting to remind me of my old, short wheel base Civic, w/o nearly as much torque steer.

 

[NTIMD8R]

The rear end is DEFINITELY tighter. Move the wheel just a little bit and the car reacts! It's starting to remind me of my old, short wheel base Civic, w/o nearly as much torque steer.

I thought you might like like that RB rear sway! I LOVE mine! Really helps me in the slaloms when autoXing! What swaybar do you have on the front? Are you still rockin' the OEM? Switch to a RB front one too. You won't be disappointed!!(drive2)

Thanks for providing some pics and congratulations on a job well done! Was wondering what it would look like with the adjustable endlinks!

I'm runnin' the same bar (our mod lists ARE looking identical! EXACTLY the same, only different! (thumb)) with OEM MS3 endlinks--thought it would be a less harsh ride than with the AWR adjustable ones. Just not real fond of the white plastic "caps" on the joints of the MS3 ones. I would like a racier look than what the MS3 links provide. Those are AWR endlinks that you have, are they not?

 

[bbrich57]

Yup, still OE front w/the upgraded links and "yellows."
I was hoping to all but eliminate understeer by using the heavier rear bar and it worked!!
But I'm not so sure the front would be such a good idea for me. That is likely to add more understeer and make the car even harder to handle in slippery weather (no body yaw= bad, foul weather car, and this is my DD not my race car)... something I have yet to experience using only the rear.

Yes, they are AWR's, but I bought them, along with the bar, from GoodWinRacing. I've done business w/him (Brian Goodwin) before. His prices are always fair, in some cases the cheapest I've seen! He's small but we have formed something of a relationship and I'm comfortable doing business w/him. He's always treated me right, as well as getting back w/answers ASAP and that's important.

 

[skipperdz]

put in a new a/c compressor and clutch in last week. today I ordered a new motor and fan for the a/c.

 

[NTIMD8R]

put in a new a/c compressor and clutch in last week. today I ordered a new motor and fan for the a/c.

What a coincidence! Mine's goin' in the shop tomorrow for the exact same thing!

The A/C compressor would only engage when fan was turned to a lower setting so I added some freon thinking that was the problem and now it won't engage at all! Or if it does it's only for a couple seconds at a time at about 20 second intervals. My shop is going to check the entire system but I'm thinkin' that I'm gonna be needin' a new compressor.

Mind me asking how much yours cost? What's the deal with the motor and fan? I assume you're talking about the fan motor for the ventilation system? Sorry to hear about your problems. Hope you get them fixed!

 

[skipperdz]

the a/c compressor and clutch just came down in price. upper 5hundreds. all said and done with tax and instal $920. they assemly's are not cheap but they came down 50% in price. I think they may be getting ready for an a/c recall to be honest. one day it was 1200 then the next it was 5something.

yes the fan motor for vent system. that runs about 130 right now. so i am waiting for student loans that come in sept.

 

[skipperdz]

the vent system is puttin out. sometimes it doesnt even start. i have to get it up to 45mph to kick start it. lol. I'd have mazda do it but they have HORRENDOUS customer service. I enjoy my car but really and dissatisfied with service they provide.

 

[bbrich57]

Oh, a little project I've been putting off... and waiting for the right time to do....
These, like many parts, have been sitting in my shop for the right time and motivation. I guess tonight was that motivation in-spite of the 97* weather.

Eventually I will replace the turn signal repeaters with these, and the repeaters will become additional running lights, but for now this will do....

 

[hat1018]

Do those work as turn signals or just marker lights? I likey either way! looks super nice.(yippy)