What have you done to your CX-5 today?

I finally had time to install my sub-woofer setup this long weekend!

Pics as soon as I can figure out Tapatalk...
 
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Put the stock springs back on the CX-5 this morning. My wife drove it twice with the H&R springs (about 100 miles total) and said she hated the ride. I left the Corksport rear sway on though to give a little better handling.
Too harsh over pot holes or overall rough? I assume you had alignment done otherwise that would cause it to ride weird ? What was her previous car? Putting my h&R's on this weekend hopefully ride isn't too bad, I came from a 94 accord coupe with 1.5" h&r drop w/ koni strt struts and low pros. Looking forward to better handling and not looking lifted! Lol
 

"Installed" my matching trek Xcal 29er and transported to Fort Custer trail for some singletrack shreding! (1upUSA rack w/curt hitch) 😁🌲🚴
 
Too harsh over pot holes or overall rough? I assume you had alignment done otherwise that would cause it to ride weird ? What was her previous car? Putting my h&R's on this weekend hopefully ride isn't too bad, I came from a 94 accord coupe with 1.5" h&r drop w/ koni strt struts and low pros. Looking forward to better handling and not looking lifted! Lol

The ride wasn't as smooth over rough surfaces as the stock setup, which is what she objected to. Alignment will cause handling problems, not ride problems. She drives both her RX-8 and my Miata so she has no problem with firm suspension.

Installed the factory aluminum pedal set. Hardest part was getting the holes through the carpet for the dead pedal. I considered just getting that one as I wanted something to protect the carpet, but decided it would look goofy with only that pedal.
 
Picked up the car from the body shop. Great body shop, Marco's collision center in South Pasadena. I have asked for the scratched headlight and they ave it to me. It looks like this one, is screwed together and not glued together.
 
Got them eyebrows and ass brows installed.







4300k HID and yellow fogs




Interior stainless steel trim.





Now...... I gotta convince the wife the justification of getting new shoes :p
 
It seems like there are different type radio trims out there. Mine, has the bottom portion as well. The cup holder trim, is silver and not chrome looking. The air vents look good, but I'm questioning if should I leave them or remove them.
They are reflecting in the windshield.
 

"Installed" my matching trek Xcal 29er and transported to Fort Custer trail for some singletrack shreding! (1upUSA rack w/curt hitch) ������

That's a nice rack and bike! I have a 1-1/4" hitch ready for my Hollywood 3-bike rack plus Raleigh Roper cyclocross. Mayyyybe this weekend...
 
Replaced an endink that broke under too much pre-load. Details in build thread. Any lowered cars considering a swaybar should look at it.
Also
Would anyone mind posting a picture of their rear endlink/sway bar? I am just looking for a picture that shows the endlink and the part of the sway bar attached to see what angle (how much preload) the oem set has. You can see it just by looking under your car towards the inside of the spring. I want to figure out a good length for adjustable end links, and the OEM angle will give me a good start, because I know there won't be and issues with hitting the chassis when it swings.
 
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That's a nice rack and bike! I have a 1-1/4" hitch ready for my Hollywood 3-bike rack plus Raleigh Roper cyclocross. Mayyyybe this weekend...
Lovin' mine, too! So secure...
nyzyhumu.jpg
 
If I go with my alternate install method with brackets on the outside it should be flush like stock. If I do it now without any extra metal piece on the back part of bracket it would probably just bend bracket where strut attaches. I should have taken a before picture. It's not exactly the tightest area for fit even in stock form.

Thanks for the pics and link. It's not that bad of a lift and is hardly noticeable.
 
If I go with my alternate install method with brackets on the outside it should be flush like stock. If I do it now without any extra metal piece on the back part of bracket it would probably just bend bracket where strut attaches. I should have taken a before picture. It's not exactly the tightest area for fit even in stock form.

I agree with your assessment. This area of my stock set up isn't a perfect fit, either. Are all Mazda CX-5s like this, I wonder?
 
I agree with your assessment. This area of my stock set up isn't a perfect fit, either. Are all Mazda CX-5s like this, I wonder?
Yea, it's something that should be noticed beforehand because if you never noticed that it was slightly higher (even on my 2013) when you add the strut you will think it was caused purely by the strut. BTW, the MIT strut is about the same price, and it also had a thicker lower mount. Apparently they also sell the LED taillight assembly for the CX-5.
 
I don't understand why the brackets are sandwiched between the hood and hinge? Why they are not installed under the hinge(hood-hinge-bracket-screws).
 
Just following pictures that were shown on eBay and without putting in the shims the bracket would bend since there is space behind it where strut attaches. A better design would be mount like my latter pictures but have a bracket that then goes flush with the hood.

FYI: Torque for hood bolts is 15-19 foot lbs.
 
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Yea, it's something that should be noticed beforehand because if you never noticed that it was slightly higher (even on my 2013) when you add the strut you will think it was caused purely by the strut. BTW, the MIT strut is about the same price, and it also had a thicker lower mount. Apparently they also sell the LED taillight assembly for the CX-5.
the MIT strut was from Alibaba?

Just following pictures that were shown on eBay and without putting in the shims the bracket would bend since there is space behind it where strut attaches. A better design would be mount like my latter pictures but have a bracket that then goes flush with the hood.

FYI: Torque for hood bolts is 15-19 foot lbs.

Is your shim-job the only way to make it this work correctly with the body panels lined up? Is the sandwiched pressure the only thing holding the shims in? I want to do the struts, but not have to have it rigged-up looking unless it was hidden from view.
 
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