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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
not bad. trying to decide what my next mod will be..
What have you done to your CX-5 today?
- Thread starter Kayger12
- Start date
not bad. trying to decide what my next mod will be..
I've got a set of those waiting for the weekend for installation. Any issues with fitment?
M4c0770_STI
Member
eBay pedals
M4c0770_STI
Member
Installed:
Hub centric 25mm spacers
Red CX-5 logo rain guards
CX-5 logo-ed mud flaps
Iceman04503
Member
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- 2015 Mazda CX-5
No issues at all. They go in pretty easy. I installed them at the same time i dipped the wheels, so i had the wheels off when i installed the flaps. If youre going to keep the wheels on, than jack up the car or get a right angled phillips head screwdriver.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Thanks I'll need to read up as I've never bled brakes before. I also want to put some higher boil fluid.
Iceman04503
Member
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- 2015 Mazda CX-5
I so want to lower my car now. Really hate the wheel gap. Corksport is 10 minutes away but i hear good things about the h&r springs.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I looked at some videos and the svc manual and I noticed it doesn't mention an order for bleeding, but I saw a video that says the front left wheel is good to start with because it's closest to the tank and less dirty fluid going thru the whole system. then criss cross from there. this video seems logical for bleeding the brakes alone http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs. I have to double check but I may just get better results from higher performance brake fluid because after reading around, I am encountering spongy brakes sometimes (particularly high speed braking) and its like 100f around here. A member here tacked his cx-5 and put some higher performance fluid in but I can't seem to find it. Any recommendations for a more performance oriented dot 3 or 4 fluid?
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The method in the video is ok, but far too complex and not necessary. You can do it that way, or do it the easy way that I've done it hundreds of times- After you have finished installing pads and tightened everything down and ready to bleed, pump your brake pedal until you get a solid pedal. Open up your bleeder and......wait. Fluid, and air will flow out and down the caliper. You may want a pan under the brakes. Let it drip for 40-45 seconds, tighten up the bleeder and check your brake pedal. It should be much firmer. This method is called the "gravity bleed". It works every time. What the guy in the video is doing is a full bleed of the WHOLE hydraulic system, as if you replaced a master cylinder, ABS motor, etc. servicing calipers do not require a FULL hydraulic system bleed, as any possible air entering the system will not travel past the full brake line system (cannot get into ABS actuators, etc). If you happen to replace just your front brakes, it really doesn't which side you start. You can even do one complete wheel at a time (lift one side up, do the brakes, bleed it out, put the wheel back on, and go to the other side). If you run into problem, gimme a shout I'll help you out.
I don't have any recommendations, Amsoil makes a good fluid. Keep in mind if you replace all the fluid, you will need a vacuum fluid evactuator or a machine, you won't get it ALL out of the lines without one, or without a week's worth of foot pumping (lol2)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
No, that little pump would take FOREVEH to remove all fluid. That's more for a simple bleed, similar to what that guy is doing in the video. Look for a vacuum actuated system like this one- warning: an air compressor is needed-
http://www.cejn.us/upload/_US/vacula/112508 DX Series Brochure.pdf
TBH, paying a shop $30-$40 to do a full evac would probably be worth it. I know Firestone and Sear auto does it (I've work at both co. before)
http://www.cejn.us/upload/_US/vacula/112508 DX Series Brochure.pdf
TBH, paying a shop $30-$40 to do a full evac would probably be worth it. I know Firestone and Sear auto does it (I've work at both co. before)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Yea, I saw those but they were kind of pricey. I'll probably just have a shop do the fluid swap.
Also ppl check your coolant mine was 1 liter below F (below L) in the reservoir after 2 years/50000mi (radiator was filled though). I noticed it because I was adding some wetter to it.
Pricey? Yes, I suppose for the casual user. All shops I worked at had one. I forgot to mention HF has a version of this with a reservoir refill bottle (stick it on top of master cylinder and it automatically refills as you vacuum out old fluid) for about $30-$40. I personally have one in my arsenal. This is what I use to do brake jobs and flushes. If you don't plan on doing this a lot, going the professional route may still be best. I flush my brake fluid every 20k-30k on all my cars. Just make sure they understand you want your fluid put in.
Yes, small fluid loss is considered normal through condensation. Check all your fluids on a regular basis.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
oh that's not bad. I was quoted before at about $80 for a flush when I first wanted to change the fluid. he models I saw were $80+
I saw it on HF for $28 but it requires an air compressor. I found this which looks a lot quicker than a hand bleeder and looks like it can be had fro ~$50 http://www.motiveproducts.com/ looks like a good buy. I don't think you have to keep pumping it, as long as the pressure is kept up.
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Today, Washed her after thrashing around winding country roads last nioght to test out suspension and push the limits to see how she reacts to the new mods.
Then i decided to fit the flyeyes kit film to my rear lights, i couldn't figure out how to take out the headlights yet so ill do them another day .
Then i decided to fit the flyeyes kit film to my rear lights, i couldn't figure out how to take out the headlights yet so ill do them another day .
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
That's tight. I Iike how it's not all dark but mainly darkens the outside. To get the light off you have to remove or partially remove the bumper. There is a bolt in the side fender that holds the light and bumper. I think I have pictures of it somewhere on this site. I am on my phone right now I'll find it later edit ok I could only find a picture with it off lol but here is a link to the thread with the service manual pdf http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123825111-Full-Service-Manuals-PDF it tell you how to remove the bumper I can't seem to find it, but think of something that may require bump[er removal and it should be around there. But really, once you remove it once it's easy to do. It's just an issue of getting to this poorly placed bolt behind the inner fender guard that IMO, is unnecessary.
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Chris, I have experience with commercial pressure bleeders but not that particular model. I do know that to get pressure, the master cylinder cap/adapter has to be a perfect fit or it will end up a big mess and leak everywhere. They are pretty cumbersome to use, but once they are set up, flushing the system is easy. The one problem I would have with pressure bleeders is the pressure they put on the ABS motor actuators. If you blow them seals, well... $$$. That's one reason the industry has gone more towards the vacuum style bleeder systems.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I see.. maybe I'll just get the little hand pump and do it the slow way. Not like I'm going to be doing it all the time and I don't want to damage something, or keep spending $100 to have a shop do it. Plus I c an use that to drain other things to. Thanks for the feedback.
No problem (drinks)
