What did you pay for your CX-5?

[mtvon2]

any thoughts on 24,700 for a 2015 red touring no options/packages? Fees listed have been the same at all the dealerships i've talked to.

Edit: Should have added that the number is before tax title and fees.

awd?
/

 

[BobbyOU]

awd?
/

fwd

 

[mtvon2]

fwd

If my numbers are correct you paid about $1,000 under MSRP. I think you could of done a little better. My 2015 Sole Red GT w/Tech and Rack, MSRP is $32,050. I paid 29,600 with tray and net so effectively 29,500. This included a $75 fee. So this comes to $2550 under MSRP.

 

[BobbyOU]

If my numbers are correct you paid about $1,000 under MSRP. I think you could of done a little better. My 2015 Sole Red GT w/Tech and Rack, MSRP is $32,050. I paid 29,600 with tray and net so effectively 29,500. This included a $75 fee. So this comes to $2550 under MSRP.

It ends up being about 1,400 under MSRP, so good to know that we might have more room to play with since we haven't purchased yet.

 

[mtvon2]

It ends up being about 1,400 under MSRP, so good to know that we might have more room to play with since we haven't purchased yet.

Thats good that you haven't bought the car yet. I would suggest that before you step into a dealership, call around. If you are convinced that the CX-5 is the right car for you; then only reason to go to a dealer, is to sign papers for the agreed price. Also don't pay for fees. This is another ploy that costs the car buyer money. The only reason I paid their doc fee is because they reduced the price of the car by the same amount.

 

[KussyPoo]

Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum. I test drove the Touring AWD a few days ago, and really liked it. I've been emailing with the salesman, trying to get a good price. However, I just decided that I want the Moonroof/Bose package added, so I was wondering what a good OTD price plus TTL would be? I live in Washington state, and the sales tax in my area is 8.8%. I will also be getting a $500 military incentive. The base Touring AWD would have been $25,590, and I saw invoice for the package is about $1,000. Could I ask for $26,100 before TTL with the package, or is that wayyyy too unrealistic?

 

[PAdrvr]

Hi, I've been price shopping for the 2015 CX-5 GT AWD and the lowest I've been quoted is $28,597, which includes everything but tax and tags. (also includes the roof rails). This was through a Truecar dealership and is at the lowest end of the Truecar pricing graph. No one else has come within $500 of this quote, most $1000 or more over. The car is out of state and is a 45 minute drive but I'm not too concerned about that. I'm about to pull the trigger but wanted to get a second opinion. Good deal? Thanks.

 

[oldspicejet]

About to buy a Touring advice

Yes, if the dealership is that bad (in the sense you may not actually end up making a proper transaction) I'd avoid them too.

I wouldn't tell the dealers the price straight out. Their internet sales/fleet sales departments should email you a price or call you with a price on specific vehicles. If you have a set number (and you can see how I arrived at mine), when they give you the price tell them you have a price in mind looking at what the current sales price of the CX-5 goes for and it is $XX,XXX.00. And then tell them they can complete the sale today if that is agreed as the out-the-door price less tax, title, registration. Tell the same thing to every dealer who calls/emails. If your price is reasonable (and if it is based on data, it will be) more than one dealer will jump. Not a single dealer said "no" right away -- sometimes they'd try to buy time with "we'll try to find a car that meets your requirements" and will call back. Usually they're looking to see if they can sell that car sooner at a higher price or should make it available immediately for sale to you at the price you gave (internet sales checks with showroom sales if they have a buyer interested.) Also, get the specific VIN# of the vehicle they mention. You can look up more details on Mazda's site with that info -- I had one dealer offer me a much lower price and I kept questioning if it was AWD and they said yes. I looked up the VIN and of course it was FWD. Dealerships sometimes screw up their stock numbers. On top of that, you'll find out if more than one dealer is trying to sell the same car (an acceptable practice.)

One other thing I noticed is I did the TrueCar sales thing too -- sometimes to the same dealership. First off, the "truecar sales price" is not actually the price you pay and the "guaranteed price" certificate isn't important in the least; every single dealer offered lower from first contact. Second, the TrueCar sales dept often doesn't interact with the general Internet sales or Fleet Manager. You can get two very different prices for the same vehicle from the same dealership. Once again, give them the price you want to pay when they give you a price. If they say they can't do it, tell them thank you and that you have other dealers looking for a vehicle for you at the moment at that price. Do not mention that you may be shopping at the same dealership through another sales department.

When you do get your price and they say they have the vehicle, ask them to send an email with the VIN#, the cost of the vehicle, and the cost out-the-door including the tax, title, registration itemized for what it'll be. Tell them you'll be there ASAP (after all they are trying to make a sale quickly) but won't be making the trip until you have it down in writing and you just want to come in, inspect the car (take a test drive in the specific car you are buying and look carefully! my longest test-drive was on the car I was actually purchasing by a lot), and sign the documents and give them money and only the amount that is listed as the out-the-door price (in my state, tax, title, registration is collected at the dealer for new car purchases -- if not in yours, modify.) You can also ask what the mileage on the car currently is to also be written down. You don't want any surprises. In my case, I knew the vehicle was warehoused with the dealer I was purchasing from (not a trade) and had only 3 miles on it when I took it for a test drive the day of pick up. I see other forum members have had cars traded between dealers where they didn't do the right thing and ship them between dealers by truck and instead drove them adding mileage. If, when you look up the VIN# on Mazda's site, you see it in the inventory of a different dealer than who is selling it to you, you can notify them that you do not want it driven over but transported over. Sometimes the sales person will flat out tell you they are making a trade and so you can tell them then. Mazda's inventory on its website does not update throughout the day (I noticed it took 48 hours before my vehicle disappeared from online inventory.)

Finally, some advice my dad gave me long ago when I made my first car purchase, when a dealer agrees to sell at the price you want, don't bother with continuing to haggle down.
It's a massive waste of energy and time for only a hundred or less dollars you could possibly gain. Be happy you got your number. This includes not including dealer-installed accessories or service in the price of the car. If the dealer wants to throw them in, great, but don't make it part of the deal -- get the lowest price on the car first. You can negotiate the accessories later with the money you saved. As for service, modern cars need so little and who knows if you'll even like that service department or you end up moving too far to take advantage of it. With my dealer, as they were prepping the car in the morning and after we had agreed on a price the night before even coming in, I mentioned that I had an ultimate number I was trying to reach on all the cars I was looking at (between different brands) when I first started shopping for a new car and I told him; he simply went "I can do that" and dropped to that price (which was about $200 lower) on the final paperwork. Obviously that means there was even more room to go down (surprisingly to me) but it wouldn't have been worth it and the whole buying experience stayed stress-free; plus it got them a good evaluation with Mazda (which is something all dealers want since they get the better selling cars in-stock.)

You guys are great Especially ErgoZoom. So following ErgoZoom's advice I'll send out a few e-mails to the dealers.

Here is where I am so far. I went to a big Mazda dealer on Sunday (last night) and played with the cars. The dealer was polite and showed me that they have two huge lots full of Mazdas. I think they have just about every combination of the CX-5.

I want to get the 2015 Touring FWD in the Pearl white ($200) with Hood Racks ($285). Sticker total $26,200. According to you guys $2,500 off the Sticker price is a great deal so I'm thinking of Following ErgoZoom's advice and offering $24,000 final price minus TTL.

I never talked numbers with the dealer cause it was past closing time so he gave me his card and told me to call him on Wednesday because Thursday they will have some sort of Memorial Day sale starting and he will know the details at that time. He said there may be a better deal on the 2014 models. I plan on waiting until I find out about the sale and then working on securing a car this weekend.

I know you guys are saying to stay clear of the 2014.5 models due to the depreciation but would it be a good deal if I offered to take a 2014 Touring, white, roof racks for $23,000 minus TTL if they offered a better financing deal than the already .9% 60 months? I don't know if I really care about the advanced key system standard in the 2015 model. Or should I just negotiate for the 2015 at $24,000 and not give dealer options? Thanks guys. I'm glued to these forums. (rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)

 

[mtvon2]

You guys are great Especially ErgoZoom. So following ErgoZoom's advice I'll send out a few e-mails to the dealers.

Here is where I am so far. I went to a big Mazda dealer on Sunday (last night) and played with the cars. The dealer was polite and showed me that they have two huge lots full of Mazdas. I think they have just about every combination of the CX-5.

I want to get the 2015 Touring FWD in the Pearl white ($200) with Hood Racks ($285). Sticker total $26,200. According to you guys $2,500 off the Sticker price is a great deal so I'm thinking of Following ErgoZoom's advice and offering $24,000 final price minus TTL.

I never talked numbers with the dealer cause it was past closing time so he gave me his card and told me to call him on Wednesday because Thursday they will have some sort of Memorial Day sale starting and he will know the details at that time. He said there may be a better deal on the 2014 models. I plan on waiting until I find out about the sale and then working on securing a car this weekend.

I know you guys are saying to stay clear of the 2014.5 models due to the depreciation but would it be a good deal if I offered to take a 2014 Touring, white, roof racks for $23,000 minus TTL if they offered a better financing deal than the already .9% 60 months? I don't know if I really care about the advanced key system standard in the 2015 model. Or should I just negotiate for the 2015 at $24,000 and not give dealer options? Thanks guys. I'm glued to these forums. (rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)(rei)

I found in calling around to different dealerships, quite a few did not participate in bidding against each other. I found this rather surprising. Given this, I think $2500 is a good number to shoot for. If one dealer can sell it for $2500 under MSRP then another dealer can. This doesn't mean another dealer will. However, I do not know what the Factory to Dealer incentive is. Is there less room for a discount for a less optioned model. I do not know.

 

[mtvon2]

Hi, I've been price shopping for the 2015 CX-5 GT AWD and the lowest I've been quoted is $28,597, which includes everything but tax and tags. (also includes the roof rails). This was through a Truecar dealership and is at the lowest end of the Truecar pricing graph. No one else has come within $500 of this quote, most $1000 or more over. The car is out of state and is a 45 minute drive but I'm not too concerned about that. I'm about to pull the trigger but wanted to get a second opinion. Good deal? Thanks.

What color is it? So you are looking for a GT without technology?

 

[oldspicejet]

Also Should I apply for financing through Mazda site first or get the price over email/phone and go to dealer to apply for financing and sign papers?

 

[PAdrvr]

What color is it? So you are looking for a GT without technology?

The car is liquid silver with no tech package. I think the tech package would be nice to have, but for me the value isn't there based on the price.

 

[mtvon2]

Also Should I apply for financing through Mazda site first or get the price over email/phone and go to dealer to apply for financing and sign papers?

I always like to negotiate one thing at a time with dealers. Dealerships like to through around numbers and get you confused and your head swimming. Get a firm price for the car first and tell them you are paying cash. Then go to the dealership and tell them you changed your mind and you now want financing. I am no expert in the finance end, but I think the dealerships work with many banks and you could have a few to pick from. But remember they will try to introduce a "loan origination fee" which is code for gravy for the dealership. You want to eliminate this or minimize it as much as possible. This goes for fees in general too.

 

[mtvon2]

The car is liquid silver with no tech package. I think the tech package would be nice to have, but for me the value isn't there based on the price.

I have to agree with you that there were a couple things in the tech package that I really didn't want too, but overall I bit the bullet begrudgingly. As far Truecar is concerned, it cannot adjust for Factory to Dealer incentives quick enough because it is always backward looking. Without fail, I like to go to forums to get the current pricing environment on the vehicle I plan on purchasing. Given this, Edmunds says the GT AWD with rails MSRP is 30325 and a dealer offered 28597 for a savings of 1728. I think that is a good deal but there might be a little more meat on the bone.

 

[Iceman04503]

If you have a Costco membership than you can save a few dollars if you buy from a dealer that participates in the Costco program.

 

[chiefmg]

I'm getting a 2015 GT AWD with Tech package for $29,683. Add the owner's loyalty on top of that. Note that is out the door excluding taxes, I will have to pay those on my own since I'm not buying in my home state.

I should note the dealer was going to sell me a car with 190 miles on it (dealer swap). I knew they had another one in the same trim coming from the factory so asked if they would honor the deal for that one. The answer was yes so that was that. My local dealer tried doing the two-step shuffle on me but I got away from that. I told them what they had to meet in order for me to buy from them, but they still were unable or unwilling to do it. Last thing the salesman asked me before I left was what they could do to get me into the car that day. As I had already told him the answer, I didn't repeat myself. One of the biggest failures on their part was the $1200 difference in what they wanted to give me for my trade-in.

 

[mtvon2]

If you have a Costco membership than you can save a few dollars if you buy from a dealer that participates in the Costco program.

When I was shopping around for a new CX-5, I inquired about the Costco program since I am a member. The Sales Manager said that members would pay $1400 under MSRP. Under the current discount environment, this would not be such a good deal.

 

[hammerstone]

New FWD base sport model

All,

I'm picking up a new 2015 FWD Sport in silver with no options next week for $20,200 in Austin TX. I then have to pay registration fees and taxes when I get it home to NM. If anyone else is interested I can give you more details. I'd be interested to hear what others have paid recently for this model.

 

[Iceman04503]

When I was shopping around for a new CX-5, I inquired about the Costco program since I am a member. The Sales Manager said that members would pay $1400 under MSRP. Under the current discount environment, this would not be such a good deal.

Thats true. Bought mines at ron tonkin and saved $2000.

 

[mtvon2]

Thats true. Bought mines at ron tonkin and saved $2000.

You did great Iceman.