What did you pay for your CX-5?

@rolltide

I lacked patience, so ended up with 10% off MSRP. Probably lost $1000 in bargaining but I was getting tired of dealing with these folks.
This has been my point on other posts. They know/think that you want to buy a car more than they want to sell one when actually it's the opposite - they NEED to sell a car, while you only WANT to buy one. Personally, I could tolerate 3 hours of hassle for $1,000. I've been fortunate that I could name my price (within reason) and walk away without a car when I needed to. Trust me, after a salesman spends 2 hours with you (when he could have been with another customer), they're going to be royally pissed if you walk away after taking 2 valuable hours from them
 
What is a good discount off MSRP for new 2020 CX-5? I have seen here that people are getting 12-15% off MSRP for 2021 CX-5. I did not see the same for new 2020. Anyone recently got a good deal?
22-23% off MSRP on 2020 CX5 if you in IL and can get it.
 
This has been my point on other posts. They know/think that you want to buy a car more than they want to sell one when actually it's the opposite - they NEED to sell a car, while you only WANT to buy one. Personally, I could tolerate 3 hours of hassle for $1,000. I've been fortunate that I could name my price (within reason) and walk away without a car when I needed to. Trust me, after a salesman spends 2 hours with you (when he could have been with another customer), they're going to be royally pissed if you walk away after taking 2 valuable hours from them
Thats in-person dealing which you referred to , not true for virtual haggling. Nobody will spend 2 hours on the phone with you. All my dealings were online.
 
This has been my point on other posts. They know/think that you want to buy a car more than they want to sell one when actually it's the opposite - they NEED to sell a car, while you only WANT to buy one. Personally, I could tolerate 3 hours of hassle for $1,000. I've been fortunate that I could name my price (within reason) and walk away without a car when I needed to. Trust me, after a salesman spends 2 hours with you (when he could have been with another customer), they're going to be royally pissed if you walk away after taking 2 valuable hours from them
Don’t waste your time negotiating in person. You’re playing their game when you do.

Do all your “negotiating” via email with bid rounds with multiple dealers. Get initial quotes from all dealers you’re willing to buy from. Then give the rest of them the opportunity to beat the low bid. Rinse, lather and repeat until only one is left standing. If you’re happy with the best bid, buy it.
 
Thats in-person dealing which you referred to , not true for virtual haggling. Nobody will spend 2 hours on the phone with you. All my dealings were online.
I was responding to rolltide's post - he was the one that said he thought he could do $1,000 better but was tired of dealing with them. But I stand by my 'don't negotiate' take-it-or-leave it approach. I offered $33098, about 14.5% off MSRP on a Signature last April; on the phone, I said "I'll come in in the morning if you can accept it, otherwise, thank you for your time" Got a call back 15 minutes later asking when I can come in. Easiest car I ever bought. - Actually, did the same thing on my 2013 WRX.

If the salesman know you are buying the car, there's no incentive for him to negotiate
 
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I was responding to rolltide's post - he was the one that said he thought he could do $1,000 better but was tired of dealing with them. But I stand by my 'don't negotiate' take-it-or-leave it approach. I offered $33098, about 14.5% off MSRP on a Signature last April; on the phone, I said "I'll come in in the morning if you can accept it, otherwise, thank you for your time" Got a call back 15 minutes later asking when I can come in. Easiest car I ever bought. - Actually, did the same thing on my 2013 WRX.

If the salesman know you are buying the car, there's no incentive for him to negotiate
So you'd think I should offer less than the advertised ~15% off on a very slightly used 2020 Signature? Not sure the best way to haggle at "No Haggle" dealership. Do I ask for their best price if I buy right away before the end of the month/quarter or do I give them a price? MSRP is listed as $39080. Other Signatures in the area with higher miles are listed for a couple grand more.
 
I was responding to rolltide's post - he was the one that said he thought he could do $1,000 better but was tired of dealing with them.
That was @sraghava (not me) who was replying to a question I asked him.

I agree with everything else you said and I will definitely spend a few hours with a salesman to save $1,000.

I offered $33098, about 14.5% off MSRP on a Signature last April; on the phone, I said "I'll come in in the morning if you can accept it, otherwise, thank you for your time"
Did you add in the doc fee, dealer add ons, and other taxable fees into the 14.5% off MSRP number?
 
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Sorry for the misunderstanding on my previous post.

But to answer your question.....

Yes, Sales Price of $32,495 & outrageous DOC of $598. You'll also notice I did not pay the 2 dealer added items on the dealers addendum sticker. This was a very unusual case, but as you can guess, this is what I told the dealer I would pay as he certainly didn't offer me a $38,705 car for $33,093. - Remember, this was a 2020 in April of 2020.

see post #6383 on the linked page below. Full Disclosure, the $2,000 rebate was $1,500 Loyalty and $500 Healthcare worker. That said, for him to get to the price the I gave to him he had to get the starting sales price down to $34,495, or 11% off MSRP. (remember, I've said in all my posts, don't ask or negotiate what price he can sell it to you for, you tell him what you're willing to pay - there was no back and forth, just "this is what I'll pay you, if you want it, fine, if it's too low, I understand and thank you for your time" - all done on the phone, one phone call. Of course, last April was odd times indeed.

 
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So you'd think I should offer less than the advertised ~15% off on a very slightly used 2020 Signature? Not sure the best way to haggle at "No Haggle" dealership. Do I ask for their best price if I buy right away before the end of the month/quarter or do I give them a price? MSRP is listed as $39080. Other Signatures in the area with higher miles are listed for a couple grand more.
Yes you should offer. Let them come back with a number if they don’t want yours.
 

So you'd think I should offer less than the advertised ~15% off on a very slightly used 2020 Signature? Not sure the best way to haggle at "No Haggle" dealership. Do I ask for their best price if I buy right away before the end of the month/quarter or do I give them a price? MSRP is listed as $39080. Other Signatures in the area with higher miles are listed for a couple grand more.
When this thread is discussing % off MSRP we are usually dealing with new cars and is generally not a shopping measure on used car. Used cars will generally be close in price and KBB is fairly accurate on 1 or 2 year old car. As far as 'no haggle' dealerships there's not much you can do. CarFax will charge a bit more but if you're set on a specific model or color they may have it. Autonation is another no haggle dealer and there really is not much you can do, but they usually have their cars fairly priced.
 
Open note to all. I apologize to my oft-times harshness on this thread, but this is a very passionate subject for me and I will try to tone down my rhetoric. We all want the best price and everyone has their own personality and how they deal. But also realize that a dealership has ho obligation to accept our price or even be polite about it. I just have an concern about those that complain about dealerships practices but then says "I was too tired to haggle anymore".

Remember you have the right to accept or decline and offer, as does the dealerhsip.

Also, a quick note about MSRP. Auto sales are an odd animal. The manufacturer sees you as their customer and the dealer is just their sales force. While the dealer sees you as their customer and the manufacturer is just their vendor. MSRP exists because the manufacturer is not allowed to set the price, otherwise they could be liable for price fixing. Just like Coca Cola can't force Koger or Albertsons to charge a set price for Coke.

Again, sorry for my harsh tone on prior posts, just remember, the dealer has the right to be a jerk if they want, and trust me, they deal with plenty of jerks too. And we have the right to chose with whom (and how) we do business.

If you want to hear something truly amazing, google - This American Life 129 Cars. - Even though it was produced decade ago, it's truly eye opening. You can listen to any 5 minute segment in any order

 
Don’t waste your time negotiating in person. You’re playing their game when you do.

Do all your “negotiating” via email with bid rounds with multiple dealers. Get initial quotes from all dealers you’re willing to buy from. Then give the rest of them the opportunity to beat the low bid. Rinse, lather and repeat until only one is left standing. If you’re happy with the best bid, buy it.
Well said.

There are still people on here trying to justify their "great negotiating skills" against people that sell cars for a living. Tell them you're taking bids, collect and compare the numbers.
 
I'm fortunate, in my area of Phoenix I had four dealers within 20 miles of each other, all had my signature in white. Yes, after I contacted the first three is when I gave my take-it-or-leave-it price for the 4th.
 
Very interesting that CX-5 deals are so different state to state. In CA, specifically in Norcal, no dealer I could find to agree with 12% off MSRP before incentives. Not even 10%. Anyone from Norcal with a certain strategy I can learn or knows a dealership that is more flexible? All I'm receiving a big laugh and good luck. I'm not rushing and I say bye to them too but so far no luck after few weeks.
 
Very interesting that CX-5 deals are so different state to state. In CA, specifically in Norcal, no dealer I could find to agree with 12% off MSRP before incentives. Not even 10%. Anyone from Norcal with a certain strategy I can learn or knows a dealership that is more flexible? All I'm receiving a big laugh and good luck. I'm not rushing and I say bye to them too but so far no luck after few weeks.
I suspect that there are informal agreements among dealers in some areas to not discount above x% off MSRP. (Collusion, anyone?) In other areas, free market rules. The cars cost the dealers with like sales volumes the same, so why, otherwise, do discounts vary so much?
 
I suspect that there are informal agreements among dealers in some areas to not discount above x% off MSRP. (Collusion, anyone?) In other areas, free market rules. The cars cost the dealers with like sales volumes the same, so why, otherwise, do discounts vary so much?

You might be correct because I negotiated with 3 dealerships with the same owner, and was told it was against “their policy” to go against each other.
 
You might be correct because I negotiated with 3 dealerships with the same owner, and was told it was against “their policy” to go against each other.
Also they are very confident you can't find this deal in Norcal. They confidently say if you find this deal they beat it by 1k :O For that they need VIN and stock# and proof though!
 
Also they are very confident you can't find this deal in Norcal. They confidently say if you find this deal they beat it by 1k :O For that they need VIN and stock# and proof though!
NorCal, BayArea and finally Silicon Valley - The breeding ground for IT professionals with staggering high salary in 6 figures !! The dealers are not nitwits and are well aware of the local market conditions and consumers with deep pockets unlike smaller markets which offer higher discount. Given the MSRP of a CX-5 is uniform around the country with substantially high salary range in CA,NY , it is a reasonable consensus amongst dealer out there to stick a certain discount range (may be 5%). When I tried to counter them with Mid-West or Mid-South offers, they did not entertain the thought.
So it will be a wise choice to get the best deal you can out there or get it shipped from ORL,DFW,ORD if that is cheaper.
 
Also they are very confident you can't find this deal in Norcal. They confidently say if you find this deal they beat it by 1k :O For that they need VIN and stock# and proof though!
I always wondered how they say "we'll beat any price by $1,000 or will give you $1,000 cash"? Do they require that you bring them a signed sales contract?
 
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