Thanks for sharing! Disappointing to hear about the butt dyno results though.
I’m not dissatisfied at all! From 2500 to 3500/4000ish it feels similar to stock. From 3500/4000 to 5500/6000 it feels so much better. IIRC, there’s also a 50-100 mile “break in period.” I’ve only got about 15 on it so far so maybe it’ll change sometime this week?Thanks for sharing! Disappointing to hear about the butt dyno results though.
Update! I noticed some other issues so reached out to Terry at BMS. Turns out I missed the direction to click the box next to “bit6.” That fixed everything. Way more power across the whole rev range and butt dyno is much happier! Went from 7.8 second 0-60 down to 6.5 seconds. I have AT tires and they squealed so could probably get faster with sticker tiresGot it and thanks. Look forward to hear what you think after the break in and sm1ke’s thoughts.
I took my bumper off for it so it was significantly easier to install, but IIRC, there is a tab to push on the wire side of the connector and that tab is on the opposite side of where you can see. I’m wondering if it would be easier to peel back the splash guard and come at it from the bottom? The connectors on the JB4 should also give some indication of how the connector is made. Any chance you have a pic of those? Sorry I’m not of more helpI'm at my wits end with my own JB4 install. My hands are mangled from trying to get the connector off of the intercooler. I don't want to take the bumper off, I just want to get this one connector out and the rest will be a breeze.
Any tips? The space is too small to get anything but my hand in there. Plastic panel is off (I got frustrated and ripped it out, and the retaining clip is broken). Everyone mentions where the sensor is and how to get to it, but nobody mentions how it comes out. Is there a tab on top? Do you push on the end closest to the wire, or closer to the end of the sensor? Do you push down or pull up? Graaahhh.. I'm giving up for the day. I got everything mounted and I just need the one damn connector out
I took my bumper off for it so it was significantly easier to install, but IIRC, there is a tab to push on the wire side of the connector and that tab is on the opposite side of where you can see. I’m wondering if it would be easier to peel back the splash guard and come at it from the bottom? The connectors on the JB4 should also give some indication of how the connector is made. Any chance you have a pic of those? Sorry I’m not of more help
So I went out to quickly see if I could confirm where the tab is. It is on the wire side on the opposite side from where you took your pic, so the same place I though it was. I also was able to reach the connector through the splash guard and disconnect and reconnect it. The tab is very firm and takes quite a bit of force to push. There was one position I was laying in where I could reach the connector through the splash guard with my left hand and touch it through the front of the bumper with my right hand at the same time. Not comfortable at all, but doable. I am 6’1” and 180 lbs. Crappy pic that may or may not help; I couldn’t see the camera when taking the picOh yeah that's a good point about the connectors, I'll take a look at those and see if I can get a better idea. I did try removing the splash guards on the bottom, but there are additional pieces and some hard plastic that make the area hard to get to. Thanks for the suggestions
So I went out to quickly see if I could confirm where the tab is. It is on the wire side on the opposite side from where you took your pic, so the same place I though it was. I also was able to reach the connector through the splash guard and disconnect and reconnect it. The tab is very firm and takes quite a bit of force to push. There was one position I was laying in where I could reach the connector through the splash guard with my left hand and touch it through the front of the bumper with my right hand at the same time. Not comfortable at all, but doable. I am 6’1” and 180 lbs. Crappy pic that may or may not help; I couldn’t see the camera when taking the pic
The tab to push is on the part of the connector that comes off. You can use whatever combo of hands makes it come off. I found that trying to squeeze/push the stiff tab and wiggle it out with the same hand was difficult. Left hand/thumb to squeeze and right hand to pull/wiggle. Coming from this angle will let you at least use your thumb on the tab, which should be easier than trying to use a finger to depress the tabThanks @MGMGT16, that description and picture helps a lot, very much appreciated. If I do it this way, I should be able to push down on the right area of the connector with my left hand while pulling the other end of the connector out with my right, correct?
Hope this works. Once the weather cooperates I'll give it another go.
If it happens to my CX5 after warranty, then my choices would be:
View attachment 312470
Thought I smelled burning coolant after driving today. Did some poking and looks like I’ve fallen victim to the coolant leak. Now to decide what to do…
Trade in? DIY the fix? Dealership? Independent mechanic? Let the phone calls begin
View attachment 312470
Thought I smelled burning coolant after driving today. Did some poking and looks like I’ve fallen victim to the coolant leak. Now to decide what to do…
Trade in? DIY the fix? Dealership? Independent mechanic? Let the phone calls begin
They most likely will offer junkyard salvage prices. But it's worth a shot to see what the offer would be.The parts to perform the repair are listed in the TSB (the head and 4 gasket kits). All in, the parts are around $900 if purchased online (this is about 30% off of list). After adding in things like antifreeze and other miscellaneous stuff the total will creep over a grand if you do it yourself. Beyond the money, though, the problem is that you have to disassemble a lot of crap to get the head off, it's going to take a long time, and it looks like the kind of thing I would really want a lift to do and good tools.
If you go the independent mechanic route, the price will easily go up 2.5x. The dealer route will be even worse - there was a repair estimate for $5k posted elsewhere.
If it were me, I'd fix it and sell it while used valuations are still sky high. I'm always wary of replacing heads on aluminum engines - the blocks can warp slightly over time, making getting a good seal difficult.
Will Carvana or some such site buy a car with a coolant leak? I'd see if they will give you an offer just to see what makes financial sense.