So today i was driving when i noticed this funny raspy sound coming from me mazda. i thought it sounded like it was an exhaust leak at first. i asked my boss to listen and he immediately was like oh my gosh dude have you checked your oil?? upon checking the oil after letting the car sit for an hour i discovered i had none. could not even get a drop on the dip stick. i added oil to full but its still knock knock knocking. its only when at idle or when im prssing the gas to rev it up. its consistent with rpm but not consistent on its own. i can hold it at 3 or 4 grand and it goes away but pushing the gas in between it makes the sound. also my car will randomly "dump" (this has happened before like 3 times and is unrelated to my current incident) but ill shift and begin accelerating and the car "dumps" forward jerking me forward as well. any one have any idea whats going on with either issue?
Uh oohhh
- Thread starter alxhrd12
- Start date
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
Where did the oil go? Is there a spot where you normally park? Just to clarify, your engine is f#$%ed, LOL
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
So you drained the oil out? How much came out, if any??? Don't rely on the dip stick alone. Still, not the end of the world. Used engines are plenty and not too bad to get one put in.
I'd recommend sending an oil sample to blackstone labs.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Ok, so you still had about 2 quarts in there. If this was for a short period of time, you should be ok but if you go for a long distance, then it could lead to permanent damage. Did any warning lights come one? I would expect the low oil light to come on before you it sustains long term damage. FYI, the oil dipstick L – H, on most if not all cars, represent 1 quart of oil. I was concerned that you saw no oil on the dipstick and assume there’s no oil in the engine.
There’s a chance the engine is salvageable but I don’t know how long the car was driven in this state. Since there was some oil left and it did not overheat, perhaps the shop can replace the piston rings/seals and bore it. Good excuse to throw in some aftermarket pistons/rods and do an internal engine upgrade
There’s a chance the engine is salvageable but I don’t know how long the car was driven in this state. Since there was some oil left and it did not overheat, perhaps the shop can replace the piston rings/seals and bore it. Good excuse to throw in some aftermarket pistons/rods and do an internal engine upgrade
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
In most cases the oil idiot light is an indicator of low oil pressure not oil level. There have been plenty of cases where a car with almost no oil on board never trips an oil light. My old Chevy truck didn't when the engine grenaded going down the highway BTW In any case, hope you can get her going again with a minimum of pain and suffering...
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
You are 100% correct. They are simple dummy OPGs. Not sure why I thought otherwise. I might have been thinking whatever caused the lose of oil would trigger lost of pressure. I've seen some of these phantom oil loss issues but no idea how they come about.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
I almost hate to bring it up, but i had a 94 Hyundai Excel (I know, I know) that made five quarts of Mobil 1 disappear into thin air. I had the timing belt replaced by an indie repair place and they used Form-A-Gasket to make a front case seal. Needless to say that didn't last very long and the oil dribbled out a drop at a time, leaving no sign of its passing. Eventually the engine went dry, the timing belt jumped two teeth, and the cam galled its bearing surfaces in the cylinder head. Were it not for a VERY good friend, and mechanic I would have lost the car. The point of my ramblings is this, even at the point of failure the blessed oil light never came on. I was highly upset by this because I had assumed the light was for oil level as well, I learned otherwise of course....
