Transmission removal tips

RatLabGuy

Huh? What?
:
'03 p5 and '89 4Runner; M5 (wife's)
Looking for tips on dropping the manual tranny by myself w/o a lift.
Also - any trick to getting the passenger side CV out? Not much to pry on at the extension shaft to pop it out.

I'm think of maybe unbolting everything except the d-side trans mount, including unbolting teh rear mount, and going ahead and removing most of the bellhousing bolts, on the assumption that the side trans mount will "hang" it. Then placing the jack under it and lifting slightly, removing last bellhousing bolt(s), then unbolt the mount last so it can fall onto the jack and be lowered down.

Or... would it be better to lay a 2x4 across the hood and support the trans via ratchet strap, unbolt it and lower it down?

Hm, now that I think of it, once that thing is disconnected, there won't be anything supporting teh engine anymore besides the front/side mount... guess I better put something under it...
 
You'll need some sort of engine cradle like in this picture to support the engine. You might be able to rig something up though, or you could support the engine with a crane. Whatever you use, it'll need to be movable so you can lower the drivers side of the engine to make enough clearance so you can slide the transmission off.
s-l1000.jpg


For the passengers axle, remove the three 14 or 12mm bolts holding the carrier to the engine, and slide axle out. It's that easy. I'd pop some new axles seals in the new trans as well, and a new clutch isn't a bad idea either.

Get the car as high off the ground as you can safely.

Here is a link to the FSM if you don't have one.
http://web.archive.org/web/20050226122131/http://protege5.ugly.net/05-15B.PDF
 
Last edited:
Thanks.
Driver side axle was certainly not easy to pop out, due to the c-clip on the end. I've had that one out before due to a replacement, but pretty sure the P-side is still all original.

Are you saying the trans can't slide right back off the clutch etc then dropped? the whole thing has to be angled downward first, like something is in the way?
That sounds like a real pain the a$$. Great.
I have several pieces of sq steel tubing, could probably rig something up.
 
Thanks.
Driver side axle was certainly not easy to pop out, due to the c-clip on the end. I've had that one out before due to a replacement, but pretty sure the P-side is still all original.

Are you saying the trans can't slide right back off the clutch etc then dropped? the whole thing has to be angled downward first, like something is in the way?
That sounds like a real pain the a$$. Great.
I have several pieces of sq steel tubing, could probably rig something up.

I don't think the passenger side axle uses a clip, the carrier holds it in the transmission. It should slide right out.

The engine in it's normal position leaves the transmission 1 or 2 inches away from the frame rail. Pop the hood and have a look. To get enough clearance for the input shaft to clear the clutch disk, the transmission needs to be lowered a good 3 or 4 inches.

The transmission is very light and can be handled by one guy in good shape. Two makes the process easier, especially without a lift.
 
OK got it out.
A few notes for future reference:
- yes, as mentioned above, the P-side CV does NOT have a C-clip like the D-side does. On that side, I unbolted the spindle at the top and the tie rod, and just tilted it forward. Once I unbolted the 3 14mm retaining bolts on the CV extension, there was just enough room to slide it out of the differential and push it aside (so did not have to remove CV from the car)
- You have to remove the retaining bolts for the starter, since they go into the bellhousing, but there's enough room up there that it will stay roughly in place so you don't have to disconnect the wires (which would be a pain w/ the limited space)
- on both sides the top two spindle bolts that connect to the strut bottom were really stuck in place. It took a long of force, profanity, and torch heat to loosen enough to spin out. apparently this is a common problem.
- once all the bellhousing bolts are off, it slides out pretty easy. I left the D-side trans mount in place, and removed all the bolts; the clamping force from both sides keeps it roughly in place. Then I put a jack under the oil pan and supported it while I removedt he 4 17mm bolts for the trans mount and it tilted down.
- here's how I supported the motor...
11781674_10100375565460673_6110002875893859548_n.jpg

11811525_10100375565475643_2458926029076524513_n.jpg
 
Back