Thought I Had A Cracked Engine Block

L

LinuxRacr

Contributor
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2001 Mazda MP3
As a lot of folks here know from this thread that I have developed a small crack in my engine block from when a drive belt came off (the one that turns the water pump). Pictures are below.

I figured that it was experimentation time again. I am going to repair the crack, rather than replacing the block. That will be a last resort. Here are some of my options for repair:

JB Weld

QuickSteel (ThermoSteel, Seal-Up)

K&W Block Sealer (Nano Technology)

Anyone have experience with any of the above? As always, I will post my findings.
 

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(mswerd) Found the instructions:


What is Seal-Up?​
Seal-Up is a unique combination of modified sodium silicate (liquid glass) and copper. Whilst in the bottle or mixed with water, it remains liquid with the copper sinking to the bottom.

How does Seal-Up Work?​
Seal-Up cures by exposure to the atmosphere and turns into a solid ceramic substance enriched with copper. The copper has two effects: first of all it strengthens the weld and then it transfers heat, thereby helping to eliminate hot spots. Seal-Up bonds with all metals (and even some plastics) and builds a ceramic-metallic weld, which is extremely strong, high heat resistant and permanent for the life of the engine.

How strong is Seal-Up?​
Seal-Up will easily repair holes of up to 1mm diameter and cracks of any length up to 0.5mm wide (both of which would result in major coolant loss). Seal-Up, once cured, will withstand temperatures of up to 540C (1000F) and pressures of up to 3000 psi. It is designed to expand and contract with the radiator or block and is also heat conductive in order to eliminate hot spots. Seal-Up should also be used immediately after an engine rebuild to ensure that the head, gaskets and other weak points in the cooling system are properly sealed. This will help to avoid the frustration of having to 'fix the repair'.

Other information about Seal-Up.​
Seal-Up will be most effective if, after treatment, the cooling system is drained and left empty for 2-3 hours or preferably overnight.

Seal-Up, unlike "pour-in-and-drive-off" stop leak products, is suitable for all cooling systems (incl. Rover 800 series) since it is made up of minute particles of less than 1 thou diameter. However, it must not be mixed with coolant!

Seal-Up is supplied in bottles of 323 g (11.4.oz) which will treat cooling systems containing up to 23 litres of water. For larger cooling systems, 2 bottles should be used.​
THE PROFESSIONAL'S CHOICE

Seal-Up is the worlds first permanent Cooling System repair product.
If you have a blown head gasket, cracked engine block or leaking radiator, Seal-Up will stop the leak permanently, without the need for any expensive and time consuming labour and spare parts.

Seal-Up will repair liquid based cooling systems in :​
  • Motor Cars
  • Lorries
  • Agricultural Vehicles
  • Building Site Plant
  • Classic Cars
Seal-Up fixes leaks in:​
  • Radiators
  • Engine Blocks
  • Cylinder Heads
  • Water Pumps


Seal-Up is as easy, clean and simple to use as adding anti-freeze.​
  • Drain the anti-freeze from cooling system
  • Fill with clean water
  • Run the engine until warm & all valves open
  • Top up the water & add Seal-Up
  • Run the engine until the leak stops (about 20 min.)
  • Drain the remaining Seal-Up and water
  • Leave to cure for 2-3 hours
 
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sadly, that quick fix "sealer" s*** usually does so good that it clogs up your radiator/heater core too!
 
Yeah, I've been reading all the reviews. I was thinking of the K&W. I've read so many good reviews about that stuff, and how if the directions are followed to a T, the result is good. I'm going to go back and edit the first post to include that one too.

The more I read, the more confusing it can be. I mean, I could go with the JB Weld stuff on the outside, and it should do fine.
 
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JB Weld first & see if that gets it. If not - then do the Seal-Up. I would still rather change a heater core than an engine block! ;)
 
Hahahahahah

Ok, This is getting kinda hilarious. I pulled my downpipe, and thermostat housing off the car, and looked around for the crack. I couldn't find it. I went to Autozone and got one of those mirrors for seeing when you can't get your eyes level with what you are trying to see. Still couldn't find the crack. :wtf: So I take some more pictures of the area with my camera, which didn't reveal the crack either. I look at the thermostat housing and the gasket. Ok, so while I am scratching my head, I decide to take a picture of the surface on the block where the thermostat housing mates up to, and of the surface on the housing to show you what I see. It appears that there probably was never a crack. What looks like a crack in the first pictures in this thread may indeed be a peice of gasket sealant, or something hanging off the gasket. Take a look for yourself.

1st picture is of the surface on the block where the housing mates up to it. I see evidence of leakage.
2nd picture is of the surface on the thermostat housing itself. Again, evidence of leakage.
3rd picture is of the "supposed" crack, which now looks to me like something hanging down off the gasket. You can even see the shadow to the right of it!
4th picture is of the area where the crack is supposed to be, but is not!

Looks like all I may need is a new gasket! (eekdance)
 

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yeah that's definitely just something hanging there.. hmm is that the pic you posted before when you first found the "crack"? I looked at it pretty closely and definitely though there was a crack then.
 
I actually changed the pictures in the first post later, when I took some better ones. But it is the same picture in the first post. Praise be to got this is the issue. Time to go get some gasket sealant (Permatex).
 
haha yeah that's the kinda problem where you're kind happy that its nothing serious but you're pissed because you've been freaking out for a week for nothing ... eh lol
 
I never saw a crack in the pics? Just scotch brite both sides clean before you reseal it. Degrease it a little too.
 
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JDM Sam said:
I never saw a crack in the pics? Just scotch brite both sides clean before you reseal it. Degrease it a little too.
Click to expand...
You are talking to another OG. I always clean and degrease gasket surfaces. YOU KNOW THIS MAAAAANG!!! Thanks for looking out. I want to talk to you about a water temp gauge with temp warning that will match my boost gauge.
 
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Damn Pat you are such a computer nerd! I love you mang! You sure a Gringo Milk man didn't get to your Mom? LOL :)
Remember kiddies, Crack kills!

Well I hope your get your dang car back on the road some time soon. I know I want mine back :(
 
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